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1" Threadless Stem Option?
I'm in the middle of a project involving a 1980's Bianchi frame that I bought a threadless fork for. I cannot find a reasonably priced 1" stem anywhere! What are my options? I'm about ready to buy a plain 'ol threaded fork again!!
(P.S. stock fork is twisted, hence the need for a new fork) |
You need to buy a 1 1/8" stem and use a shim. Problem Solvers has them. You should be able to order them through any bike shop.
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+1 on shim.
Some stems come with shims. I got a PRO stem for 35 bucks that came with one last year. |
Will the shims hold? I saw shims for this thought it was a half-@$$ way of going about it.
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As long as you get the length right. Ideally the same as the stem's stack height. Ok if up to 3mm or so shy of that.
If the shims are longer, you'll need to cut or file them down to fit. |
the stem bolts compress the shim around the steerer just fine.
shim tube = 1/16th thick (9/8"-8/8") divided by 2 =1/16".. |
So are you guys saying I will be needing regular 1 1/8" headset spacers? Thanks for the help. I never did this before.
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$10 for the shims made by Thomson to put a 1-1/8" stem on a 1" steerer... some stems even come with generic shims.
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No you'll want 1" spacers.
Actually I got that backwards The shims for my PRO are LONGER than the stem's stack height. Which makes sense cuz Some 1" spacers have an OD that might interfere with stem |
spacers under the stem are fitting over the fork steerer Out side diameter .. outside.. 9/8" forks are 1" inside
so shims with a 1.125" ID will fit sloppy on a 1.0" fork. (1"OD forks are 7/8" inside) top cap pushes doen the stem&shim+ spacers beneath it , once you tighten the stem+ shim the adjustment is secured .. Aesthetics aside, shim can be taller than the stem, just put the excess underneath and the spacers will be that much less in height. |
In some cases I consider shims a kludge but when using a 1 1/8" stem on a 1" steerer tube it works so well you'll never know the difference. Unless you have a good eye and can tell that the stem is a larger diameter than it needs to be.
1" threadless stem options are so limited I saw no reason to try and hunt one down in the length/angle/clamp diameter I wanted. |
Before 2000, every bike had threaded stems. It meant adjusting stem height was relatively easy even though it was a pain to change bars and configure cables.
Threadless stems made the latter easier at a cost. The bike factory usually cuts the steerer too low to fit most riders so a bike shop cannot customize a steerer to size. A stem riser is a kludge to do what the bike factory messed up in cutting the steerer to a predetermined size. |
Originally Posted by steve-in-kville
(Post 16968043)
So are you guys saying I will be needing regular 1 1/8" headset spacers? Thanks for the help. I never did this before.
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Originally Posted by NormanF
(Post 16968988)
Before 2000, every bike had threaded stems. It meant adjusting stem height was relatively easy even though it was a pain to change bars and configure cables.
Threadless stems made the latter easier at a cost. The bike factory usually cuts the steerer too low to fit most riders so a bike shop cannot customize a steerer to size. A stem riser is a kludge to do what the bike factory messed up in cutting the steerer to a predetermined size. 1. You are around 10 years late on the introduction of threadless forks. Diacomp filed the patent for the Aheadset in 1990. Threadless was very common by 1995. 2. The threadless headset isn't a conspricy by bicycle companies to force a bad product on the public because it costs less. It really is a superior product that offer many benefits over threaded systems. The only advantage that threaded has over threadless is the ability to easily adjust the stem height. The disadvantages of threaded headsets are many. They are more involved to install and adjust. They are prone to loosening especially in mountain bike applications. They are less stiff and prone to bending and flexing during hard out of the saddle efforts. And you've already alluded to one of the old goose neck style's big problems 3. So what if the threadless stem costs less? That cost savings is passed on to the consumer. 4. Finally, your post has nothing to do with steve-in-kville's problem. He doesn't need to extend a steer tube that has been cut too short. He needs a 1" stem for a threadless fork. What he doesn't need to some retrogrouch railing against new fangled parts. At almost 25 years old, the threadless headset is hardly "new fangled". |
Originally Posted by cyccommute
(Post 16969418)
Four problems with your post:
1. You are around 10 years late on the introduction of threadless forks. Diacomp filed the patent for the Aheadset in 1990. Threadless was very common by 1995. 2. The threadless headset isn't a conspricy by bicycle companies to force a bad product on the public because it costs less. It really is a superior product that offer many benefits over threaded systems. The only advantage that threaded has over threadless is the ability to easily adjust the stem height. The disadvantages of threaded headsets are many. They are more involved to install and adjust. They are prone to loosening especially in mountain bike applications. They are less stiff and prone to bending and flexing during hard out of the saddle efforts. And you've already alluded to one of the old goose neck style's big problems 3. So what if the threadless stem costs less? That cost savings is passed on to the consumer. 4. Finally, your post has nothing to do with steve-in-kville's problem. He doesn't need to extend a steer tube that has been cut too short. He needs a 1" stem for a threadless fork. What he doesn't need to some retrogrouch railing against new fangled parts. At almost 25 years old, the threadless headset is hardly "new fangled". |
There's multiple one inch Ritchey logic threadless headsets on ebay for $17.96 buy it now w. free shipping at the moment. Sounds reasonable.
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No need to use shims. There are plenty of one inch threadless stems available in many styles, angles and lengths here. Prices are very reasonable and quality is darn good too. Look at OEM, grade 1, and grade 2.
UNO |
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