New Wheelset or Replace Hub
 

Need some insight-

I have a DA 7800 hubs 32h laced to Mavic Open Pro CD rims. The wheel set has about 25,000 miles on them. They seem to ride well and visually the hubs and rims look great. Never been crashed or curbed. Recently the front has developed a tick. The first time I couldn't adjust it and got the wrench at my LBS to help me. He got it out, but it came back a few hundred miles later. I took it to him again, adjusted it and it came back pretty loud so much my friends could hear it while riding. I took to the LBS again and they have adjusted again but feel it will return again and I should start looking for a new wheelset. I agree.

I have always done my own work to the point of building the bike and re-component 2 bikes 3 times over the years, most recently with the DA 7900 compact group. I always true and adjust my wheels and hubs, but I have always felt wheel building is an art in itself and should be left to those experienced in building wheels.

A new front hub is $100.00.

My question is- Is it worth while and doable for me to lace in a new hub or look for a new wheel set? It would only make sense to lace in a new hub if I could do it myself. I attached a couple of pics of the wheel. You can they look good, but there could fatigue you can't see.

Thanks-

What did he "adjust" that removed the ticking? What was his diagnosis of the cause?

Rule number one of repair ---- the remedy has to address the actual cause of the problem.

Unless you've confirmed that the issue is internal to the hub, there's no assurance that transferring the rim and spokes to a new one will change anything. For all you know, the hub is fine and the tick is coming from the rim. (maybe you're sure it's the hub, and failed to say so). If it is the hub, maybe a simple rebuild/relube of the bearing is all that's needed.

In any case, for most people, a non repairable hub failure is a wheel failure, and it very rarely (if ever) makes sense to rebuild the rim and spokes onto a new hub. In your case with 25k in, the rim is far into it's useful life, so it makes even less sense.

My advice, find out EXACTLY what the issue is, and either fix it within a reasonable budget, or replace the wheel.

For 25000 miles, the rim looks to be in amazing condition.

For replacement vs repair, unless the cups or cones are damaged, you should be able to replace the bearing, and have the hub back in as new condition, there isn't much in a front hub that can go wrong. As #FBinNY you need to ID where the issue is. and work from there.

The FIRST step is to determine the source of the problem - more specifically than "it's the hub." The hub should be disassembled and the cups/cones inspected for pitting, etc - then replace cones if pitted. If all is well then repack with new balls and good waterproof grease. Note that if there is very little grease or it's too thin the balls can make noise as they click against each other. You should also check the spokes at the crossing to see if they have developed burrs, which will also click at sometimes unpredictable times.

The hub seems like the least likely source of "ticking". More likely would be valve stem hitting the rim, or a loose spoke.
Under what conditions, and frequency does it occur ?

I have taken good care of the wheels, keep them clean and in adjustment. The have had periodic rebuilding through the years. The wheels have on the bike since 2007. I have a second set of High-end Ksyriums for special rides. The big majority of my day to day riding has been on these wheels. I ride about 3,500+ miles per year. This year more like 4,500 miles.

The wrench at the LBS, btw I do trust them, I know the owner well and he is a personal friend. He got his start as a wrench on tour with Trek. He looked in the hub. He told me races and cones are worn and pitted. The spokes are all tight and well adjusted. The hub adjustment temporarily resolved the issue in the past.

When the tick occurs, it is under load or weight on the wheel. When it made the tick, if you removed the wheel and spun it holding the axel, it had a rather bad "catch" or rough spot in the rotation.

I was told they can't replace the races.

FWIW- well cared for hub bearings, especially high end front hub bearings should outlast their owners, because the operating conditions are so light. Also, slightly pitted bearings rarely cause a ticking or issues you can hear when riding.

But for whatever reason I'll accept that this is hub bearing wear, so you have a simple economic decision. Figuring $60 labor to transfer the rim, for $160 you'll bet a used wheel in decent condition, compare to buying a prebuilt wheel with the same specs, or having the shop build fresh, and decide.

I take good care of my wheels too. The outsides are pretty gross, but the hub guts are refilled with fresh grease every 6 months.

It takes a lot to kill Shimano hubs, particularly the fronts. The design and seals are excellent. You can kill them if the bike is on a car rack in the rain, or by cleaning with water via a pressure washer.

I have dug through the internals of many, many hubs, are I have only seen a handfull in which the bearing cups were pitted beyond salvaging. Most often, the cones and balls go first, and due to the higher surface area of the ball cups, they take much more to kill.

Shimano makes (made?) a kit for replacing the 7800/7801 front axle, cones, and locknuts - complete. I don't why, but I seem to have several in my hub parts bin. Is your mechanic pal completely sure that the races are shot? Has he pulled everything apart, cleaned it up, and used a ball-point pen to 'feel' the damage? Replacing cones and balls is a lot less expensive than a new wheel. Because if the hub is truly shot, then I suggest a new wheel.

25,000 miles? Wow. If this was me, the rims would have been ground to black goo several times over. But I do a lot of hard braking in the rain....