Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Bar end shifter cable routing

Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Bar end shifter cable routing

Old 08-11-14, 11:33 AM
  #1  
vwchad
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
vwchad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Everett, Washington
Posts: 595

Bikes: 2013 Focus Izalco Pro, Soma Grand Randonneur

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Bar end shifter cable routing

Anyone run their bar end shifter cables under the bar tape all the way up to the center of the bars? Seems to me that having the cable make a big loop from the drops would cause it to interfere with bar bags and such, or at least be annoying. I want to run bar end shifters, but I don't much care for the big loop of cable hanging in the breeze. Thoughts?
vwchad is offline  
Old 08-11-14, 11:39 AM
  #2  
Wilfred Laurier
Señor Member
 
Wilfred Laurier's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 4,281
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 327 Post(s)
Liked 63 Times in 44 Posts
i have a big bike
and I think running the cable up the bars to the stem
might require a longer than normal cable

also
my bar end shifters work so well
that i wouldn't even try using a different set up
but i have certainly heard of people successfully using cables under the tape up to the stem
Wilfred Laurier is offline  
Old 08-11-14, 11:53 AM
  #3  
markjenn
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,112
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 128 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Some folks certainly do it but the cable runs are longer and the bends more acute which may impact shifting quality. Personally, I've never minded standard routing but I don't use a handlebar bag. Anything other than a big bag doesn't have any real interference issues. Visually, it is certainly no more cluttered than the cables that used to be on Shimano brifters fro many years.

If you do it, you might want to try "crossover routing" where you run the RD housing to the left boss on the downtube and then have it cross over to the right side at the bottom bracket guide. (The opposite for the FD cable.) This lessens the severity of the right-angle bend coming out from underneath the bars to the downtube stops.

If you do go with the standard routing that exits at the drops, you may prefer wrapping the bars from the top down rather than the usually recommended bottom to top. Wrapping bottom to top creates a pinching issue with the tape where the housing exits the bar.

- Mark
markjenn is offline  
Old 08-11-14, 11:58 AM
  #4  
Wilfred Laurier
Señor Member
 
Wilfred Laurier's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 4,281
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 327 Post(s)
Liked 63 Times in 44 Posts
Originally Posted by markjenn View Post
If you do go with the standard routing that exits at the drops, you may prefer wrapping the bars from the top down rather than the usually recommended bottom to top. Wrapping bottom to top creates a pinching issue with the tape where the housing exits the bar.
really not an issue

my bike has budget faux cork tape
wrapped bottom to top
and until I read your post
i had forgotten that there is a less overlapped wrap where the cable exits

the potential problems with wrapping the bars 'backwards'
imho
greatly outweigh the minor aesthetic advantage
which only matters at all
when viewing the bars from underneath
Wilfred Laurier is offline  
Old 08-11-14, 11:59 AM
  #5  
vwchad
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
vwchad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Everett, Washington
Posts: 595

Bikes: 2013 Focus Izalco Pro, Soma Grand Randonneur

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks for the quick responses.
vwchad is offline  
Old 08-11-14, 12:06 PM
  #6  
Tim_Iowa
Senior Member
 
Tim_Iowa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Posts: 1,647

Bikes: 1997 Rivendell Road Standard 650b conversion (tourer), 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10 (gravel/tour), 2013 Foundry Auger disc (CX/gravel), 2016 Cannondale Fat CAAD 2 (MTB/winter), 2011 Cannondale Flash 29er Lefty (trail MTB)

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 166 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
I've never tried routing that way; I always have the cables under the bar tape for until the beginning of the first curve, then have them exit straight out. I use the "crossover routing" markjenn mentioned; it helps keep the cables from rubbing against the head tube.

HOWEVER

I may try to fully wrap the cables on my next build. It's a 90's rigid MTB I'm converting to drop bars, and the shift cable bosses are on top of the top tube. So, if the cables exit the wrap at the center of the bar, they're pretty close to the top tube bosses.

I'll mock it up and see if it's any cleaner than the "traditional" cable routing for bar-ends.
Tim_Iowa is offline  
Old 08-11-14, 12:08 PM
  #7  
markjenn
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,112
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 128 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Queue up the endless debates about bar wrapping convention.... I wish I hadn't brought it up. My only point was that you do a cleaner exit of bar-con housings from under the tape going top > bottom. Beyond this, debate away.

- Mark
markjenn is offline  
Old 08-11-14, 12:24 PM
  #8  
Wilfred Laurier
Señor Member
 
Wilfred Laurier's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 4,281
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 327 Post(s)
Liked 63 Times in 44 Posts
Originally Posted by markjenn View Post
Queue up the endless debates about bar wrapping convention.... I wish I hadn't brought it up. My only point was that you do a cleaner exit of bar-con housings from under the tape going top > bottom. Beyond this, debate away.

- Mark
I agree it is cleaner
but such an insignificant amount cleaner
and to no real benefit
that I don't think it is a good idea

but i also wish not to debate
as this is only my opinion

and I can be wrong sometimes
well at least i thought i was once
but I was wrong
Wilfred Laurier is offline  
Old 08-11-14, 03:36 PM
  #9  
Mauriceloridans
Senior Member
 
Mauriceloridans's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Shreveport
Posts: 314

Bikes: 1983 Trek 520, early 80's Univega Gran Tourismo, '98 Santana Arriva, '71 Dawes Galaxy, '77 Peugeot UO10

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I run my shift cables all the way under the tape. I do use a bar bag and don't like the way "flying whiskers" style interferes. It adds a small amount of friction to the shifting, but you can compensate by adjusting less friction in the levers. That is if you are a friction shifting fellow like me.
Mauriceloridans is offline  
Old 08-11-14, 05:15 PM
  #10  
vwchad
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
vwchad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Everett, Washington
Posts: 595

Bikes: 2013 Focus Izalco Pro, Soma Grand Randonneur

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Mauriceloridans View Post
I run my shift cables all the way under the tape. I do use a bar bag and don't like the way "flying whiskers" style interferes. It adds a small amount of friction to the shifting, but you can compensate by adjusting less friction in the levers. That is if you are a friction shifting fellow like me.

I plan to use a bar bag on top of a rack up front so this interference is what I was concerned with primarily. Never had bar end shifters so I got to thinking, hey how do other people route these things? Thanks for your input.
vwchad is offline  
Old 08-11-14, 06:49 PM
  #11  
Andrew R Stewart 
Senior Member
 
Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 11,614

Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Raleigh Pro, Trek Cycle Cross, Mongoose tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1734 Post(s)
Liked 47 Times in 34 Posts
I rode bar ends (Sun Tours) from the early 1970s to mid 1990s (and I went Ergo). I pretty much routed the housing along the bar bottoms and uo the curve toward the levers a bit. With the Tressostar cloth tape I then used, there was two or three wraps of tape between the housing exit from the bars and the bottom of the levers (always Campy NR). This meant that the housing had a bit of a up angle upon exit from the bars and tended to match the angle of entry to the DT cable stops. This also allowed enough room between the ft and rr housing loops to fit a handle bar bag, for the few times I toured.

I do agree that routing the housing all the way under the bar tape to the tops, much like current brake housing does, requires a longer cable. For small frames like I ride this is no big deal. For tall and long frames this means often a tandem length cable. Andy.
Andrew R Stewart is offline  
Old 08-11-14, 08:01 PM
  #12  
desertdork
just pokin' along
 
desertdork's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: the desert
Posts: 1,095
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
59cm frame, 450mm chainstays, 44cm drops

As I recall, a "standard" 2100mm cable did the job.

I find the drops more comfortable with cable routed to top. No difference in shifted over "conventional" routing.
desertdork is offline  
Old 08-11-14, 08:12 PM
  #13  
SkyDog75
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 3,808

Bikes: Bianchi San Mateo and a few others

Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 632 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
I've got one bike with barcons and the I routed the shift cables under the tape all the way to the top. It shifts well, but has a six-speed freewheel and friction shifters, so it doesn't need to be super precise. I could probably mount a bar bag without any cable interference, but the shift cables do get rubbed by the centerpull brake straddle cable. If I had sidepull brakes or a frame bigger than 21" (54 cm), there probably wouldn't be any contact at all.
SkyDog75 is offline  
Old 08-12-14, 10:05 AM
  #14  
fietsbob 
coprolite
 
fietsbob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 41,650

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 188 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6836 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 215 Times in 179 Posts
I have a bike which is as you describe, and another 2 where it comes out from under the tape, at the same point It has the brake lever mounting band .
Tidy, since the bar tape wrap has to be interrupted to go around the brake lever . routing the housing to exit on the inside, at the band


Line of the housing upwards and clears the handlebar bag nicely.. on the way to down tube stops.. just touching the rear corner of the bar bag.
not interfering with any hand grips on the bars ..

as suggested .. drag may be a bit much , if taking the extra bends to exit in the center .. die drawn slick cables highly recommended ..
fietsbob is offline  
Old 08-12-14, 11:37 AM
  #15  
rsacilotto
Senior Member
 
rsacilotto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Saugus, Massachusetts, United States
Posts: 213

Bikes: 1983 Trek 760, 2000 Fuji Team, 1988 Schwinn Voyageur

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by desertdork View Post
59cm frame, 450mm chainstays, 44cm drops

As I recall, a "standard" 2100mm cable did the job.

I find the drops more comfortable with cable routed to top. No difference in shifted over "conventional" routing.
+.95 - 58cm frame, with moustache bars. I needed a 2500mm cable for the rear, 2100 was just a bit too short. I'm using Shimano 9 speed bar-ends and Jagwire cable housing, standard cables, no issues with friction, shifting is perfect.
rsacilotto is offline  
Old 08-12-14, 12:08 PM
  #16  
vwchad
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
vwchad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Everett, Washington
Posts: 595

Bikes: 2013 Focus Izalco Pro, Soma Grand Randonneur

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
This bike will be getting an ultra modern..... 7 speed Uniglide cassette. I got a deal on an entire group that was practically brand new, so that's the reason for the parts selection. 54cm frame, so cable length shouldn't be a problem. I'll probably go all the way under the tape.
vwchad is offline  
Old 08-12-14, 02:00 PM
  #17  
nesteel
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Midwest
Posts: 1,806

Bikes: See the signature....

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 395 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times in 4 Posts
I prefer the cleaner look that running the cables all the way under the tape gives.
nesteel is offline  
Old 08-12-14, 02:49 PM
  #18  
mconlonx 
Str*t*gic *quivoc*tor
 
mconlonx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 7,556
Mentioned: 44 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6965 Post(s)
Liked 36 Times in 26 Posts
When I set up my commuter, I ran the housing all the way up to the top of the tape, exiting near the stem. Just looks cleaner. Never had shifting or adjustment issues, 10sp cass, index shifting.
__________________
I know next to nothing. I am frequently wrong.
mconlonx is offline  
Old 08-12-14, 05:29 PM
  #19  
Altbark
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Trenton On
Posts: 245

Bikes: 2010 Cannondale T1, 1998 Specialized FSR

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I have two bikes with bar cons. One is an Ultegra equipped road bike - 2 X 10. The second is a Cannondale T1 - 3 X 9 friction shift. I have routed the shift cables under the bar tape all the way to the stem on both bikes. Both shift flawlessly. I wouldn't do it any other way. Al
Altbark is offline  
Old 08-12-14, 06:21 PM
  #20  
dwmckee
Senior Member
 
dwmckee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 1,576

Bikes: Co-Motion Cappuccino Tandem,'88 Bob Jackson Touring, Co-Motion Cascadia Touring, Salsa Carbon Warbird, Ritchie Titanium Breakaway, Felt Surplus 70 MTB, Dahon Folder, Frances Cycles SmallHaul cargo bike

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 54 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I have done this on my Salsa Fargo with great results. I did use Teflon covered cable cores though to reduce friction and ran the housing up the side of the brake handle to make that bend a little wider. I also ran the cable housings tuo the opposite sides of the steerer tube to make the bend less sharp there then it d the cables back to the correct side under the down tube. Worked perfectly. If I can find my old post here I will add the link.
dwmckee is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Lexi01
Road Cycling
33
01-24-12 03:52 PM
NorthWestDork
Road Cycling
18
01-10-09 04:34 PM
traveller5
Road Cycling
0
06-28-05 12:33 AM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.