Bustaknot

I was going to tear down an old bike I have, right down to it's individual parts and do a complete cleaning of each part so they're as shiny and new looking as I can get them (and probably replace some parts).

Is this a terribly idea? Or a damned satisfying one? This bike is grease and grime from the 80s and I just want it to sparkle again.

Sixty Fiver

Tearing down the chain and putting it all back together tends to be the hardest job...

Bustaknot

Hah, I'll probably just get a new chain

JohnDThompson 

No, it's fine. Pick up some odorless mineral spirits from the hardware store and a shallow pan to soak the parts in (an old baking pan from the thrift shop works fine). Strip the bike, soak the parts, and use an old toothbrush to dig out the stubborn areas. When they're clean, spread them out outside in the sun to allow the mineral spirits to evaporate. Pour the used spirits from the pan into a jar and let the crud settle out so you can decant the clean spirits off the top to use again and again.

Sixty Fiver

But seriously... the complete tear down, polish, and overhaul can be very satisfying.

RPK79

Be sure to relube and regrease all the moving parts.

Bustaknot

Great advice, man! Thanks!

Bustaknot

I'm really looking forward to it. Was just wondering if there was anything I should avoid.

JPeters

Sounds like a great idea; easier than you'd think, and well worth it. On an old bike you may discover problems that you never knew you had, though. Stuck posts or brackets, internal rust, etc, so be ready to go to an LBS if you do. The most annoying thing is getting all those specific bike tools like proprietary hub and chainring wrenches and crank pullers. The cost of all those tools can add up.

Bustaknot

I'm borrowing a kit of bike tools to get me started, but I'm expecting to run into this issue. I'll tackle the problem when I get to it.

Bustaknot

NEXT QUESTION:

Where on the bike to start?

Any advice on some steps of what to start on first, second, third?

RPK79

I would pull the brakes, then derailleurs, then shifters / brake levers, seat, seatpost, bars, stem, fork, headset, crank, then bottom bracket.

Al1943

I would do the hubs first. Clean and grease the bearings. Reassemble the hubs, adjust the cones, and set the wheels apart from the rest of the bike. I assume you will not be rebuilding the wheels.

alcjphil

I prefer this method:
The ShelBroCo Bicycle Chain Cleaning System

fietsbob

take off the wheels take out the BB clean and grease it , ditto headset .. take out stem and seatpost and grease them too

[read all the stuck quill stem, and seatpost threads to see Why.]

clean the rest off while its apart .. crank , chanrings frame and fork, etc..

then service the wheels ..

likebike23

I have done this to quite a few bicycles and find it to be very rewarding. When you are done you will have a feeling of accomplishment and pride of ownership that can't be had from simply unfolding your wallet.

I basically cut all of the cables first, toss them and remove the wheels, derailleurs, brakes, chain, and cranks and put them in a box. I remove the bottom bracket and clean/ repack it. I then take the Stem/fork out and repack the headset. At this point you can clean the frame and polish the paint. Next you can clean/polish and reinstall each individual component. Remove the cassette/freewheel and you can repack the hub bearings then true the wheels. Install the chain and cables and tune it up. Good luck.

joeyduck

Thanks for the laugh.

HillRider

I wouldn't "completely" disassemble the derailleurs or brakes. You can remove the inner cage plate and pulleys from the rear derailleur for cleaning and lubing but do NOT take the parallelogram or the other pivots apart. You can effectively clean these parts in a solvent like OMS or Kerosene using an old toothbrush to get into the various recesses. Blow or shake off the excess solvent, let them dry and relube. Also, don't remove the headset cups or crown race unless they are to be replaced with new ones.

Edited to correct the recommendation on derailleur disassembly!

KBentley57

+1 for the mineral spirits. Remove all the small bits and throw them in a pint jar, let soak for about 5 minutes and they'll come out grease free. Also, if you have any parts you'd like to shine up, a dremel buffing wheel + antiseize compound works pretty well for removing surface oxidation.

dedhed

I usually disassemble the brakes and polish each part, then lube when you put them back together.Take lots of pictures of how things go together as these projects tend to take longer than the memory lasts. Also I consider it "winter work"

jyl

If non-anodized aluminum parts are scratched, you can sand it out with fine wet/dry sandpaper, moving to finer and superfine grits and finally polishing compound and a cloth.

For some aluminum parts I use a buffing wheel and polishing compound.

Rusty steel can be quickly spruced up with a wire wheel.

For rusty chrome, read threads on oxalic acid baths.

Lot of ways to clean the painted frame. I use soap and water, then as needed Simple Green, then WD40, finally a solvent like Goof-Off. Be careful with decals. Replacement decals are available.

I may disassemble brakes, I don't disassemble derailleurs.

bradtx

How about a more positive I am.

Brad

dbg

A good, clean, organized work area makes it even more enjoyable. Add some favorite music and a big window (or patio) overlooking a park on a pleasant summer day --OMG.

Dave Cutter

I've always shied away from disassembly of the freewheel. But a good cleaning and new grease seems to work fine. I also use a spray can of carburetor cleaner to dissolve the crud that has turned to a varnish. It saves tons of scrubbing but only use outside.

It really is very satisfying to clean-up an old beauty!

ofgit 

Windex on blue paper shop towels works well for cleaning the frame without the side effect of getting water inside the tubes. With the bottom bracket and headset/fork off you can check for any rust in the seat and head tubes and bb shell. Have used scotch brite taped on the end of a dowel to scrub it then spray/apply some preservative. Have used LPS 3 (thick) sprayed into the vent holes in the stays/main tubes/fork blades as preservative. Spray it in, tilt and rotate the frame to coat the interior and set it aside to drain the excess. Evapo-Rust (@ AdvanceAuto) will remove rust from any part/area, is non toxic, no fumes and won't harm the paint. It is easier to polish/wax the frame while it is completely nekkid too.