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-   -   Help with CroMo Question!!! (https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/966932-help-cromo-question.html)

SquidPuppet 08-20-14 12:53 PM


Originally Posted by nfmisso (Post 17054871)
Purchase one of these to mark your holes: Center Punch - Automatic Center Punch with Brass Handle

Then drill a small pilot hole (3/32" or so), then 11/64" for the M5x0.8 tap. Harbor Freight taps are fine. Their drills leave a lot to be desired. Get your drills from McMaster or Fastenal or MSC or Grainger or similar Industrial Supply company.

After drilling, counter sink the holes slightly on both sides before tapping with a 1/4" drill bit by hand, not in a power tool. I have one of these: http://uytit.files.wordpress.com/201...rill-chuck.jpg that I use for holding drill bits for manual operations. Less than $10-

Use lots of oil both when you drill and when you tap. Any light oil is fine - I usually use TriFlow liquid - not spray.

Flush the oil out with Isopropyl Alcohol (from any pharmacy) just before you install the rack, and use blue or purple thread locker. That will protect the cro-mo and retain the screw, while still being removeable. DO NOT use red threadlocker - you will not be able to remove the screw.

What is the reason for counter sinking in this application?

nfmisso 08-20-14 01:45 PM


Originally Posted by SquidPuppet (Post 17055034)
What is the reason for counter sinking in this application?

So that there is not a remnant of the thread sticking up, and to provide a lead in for the screw; also good general practice. Having a thread remnant fall into the chain is not good for the chain or sprockets.

Cro-mo is not the easiest thing to drill, high quality sharp drills required. It is easier to tap than most stainless steels, but not be much. When tapping, turn in 1 turn, turn back ½ turn, repeat. Failure to do so will likely result in a broken tap.

Leebo 08-20-14 01:52 PM

They also make racks that fit through the axles for support. Front rack?

Retro Grouch 08-20-14 02:02 PM


Originally Posted by aaronmichael (Post 17054658)
Well, we bought the bike and it looks like the drilling will definitely be an option and I'm probably going for it! Unfortunately I don't have any bikes to practice on but I'm a pretty meticulous/neat guy anyway. There will be lots of measuring and double checking before any drilling happens, simply to make sure that the holes are in the same spot on both sides.


Originally Posted by nfmisso (Post 17054871)
Purchase one of these to mark your holes: Center Punch - Automatic Center Punch with Brass Handle

Then drill a small pilot hole (3/32" or so), then 11/64" for the M5x0.8 tap. Harbor Freight taps are fine. Their drills leave a lot to be desired. Get your drills from McMaster or Fastenal or MSC or Grainger or similar Industrial Supply company.

After drilling, counter sink the holes slightly on both sides before tapping with a 1/4" drill bit by hand, not in a power tool. I have one of these: http://uytit.files.wordpress.com/201...rill-chuck.jpg that I use for holding drill bits for manual operations. Less than $10-

Use lots of oil both when you drill and when you tap. Any light oil is fine - I usually use TriFlow liquid - not spray.

Flush the oil out with Isopropyl Alcohol (from any pharmacy) just before you install the rack, and use blue or purple thread locker. That will protect the cro-mo and retain the screw, while still being removeable. DO NOT use red threadlocker - you will not be able to remove the screw.

I wouldn't worry excessively. Most likely the hardest part will be figuring how to stabilize the bike while you do the work. I'm thinking the other poster has done jobs like this before. Might be good advice to follow.


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