Better Inner Tubes?
 

I hate flats! Are all inner tubes pretty much the same, or are there certain makes/models that are truly tougher? My bike already has tires with flat guard linings built in, but I've already had a flat on my two month old endurance road bike, after less than 400 miles.

I replaced the bad stock tube with a Michelin tube with threadless valve, and I bought extras. I thought surely Michelin would make or source a good tube but time will tell. I've heard that the super thick tubes tend to split at the air valve.

Any suggestions?

You've had one flat in 400 miles and you think it's the tube's fault?

Was it a thorn? Glass? Pinch flat?

It was a slow leak, and I could not find it. I don't necessarily blame the tube, but since it holds the air and is the weakest link, a tougher tube certainly couldn't hurt. I just wonder what other people have had the best luck with.

They do make "thornproof" which are double to triple thickness on the tread side. These supposedly reduce the number of punctures caused by thorns and goatheads, and maybe thin wires. But the reality is that unless you have a problem, flats are caused by stuff you ride over. And there's not much you can do about that.

Besides thornproof tubes you can use liquid sealants like Slime, or devices like Mr. Tuffy (which I hate), or buy tires with kevlar belts.

OTOH- I suspect that active urban cyclists get flats on average once every 1,000 miles or so (figure from thin air, but probably not a mile off) so getting a flat or slow leak after 400 miles isn't cause for panic.

There are extra thick tubes ("thorn proof", yea...:)) in some common sizes. Usually the extra wall thickness is focused on the outer tread portion. usually the resulting ride quality suffers (weight goes up and suppleness goes down).

There are goop filled tubes that will try to self seal some cuts. Works to a degree on some punctures and in time usually plugs the valve (Slime can't tell the difference between a puncture and the valve). Most solutions only claim a year of function at best.

Usually the more you ride the fewer flats per mile you'll get. Why? Well you'll learn to take better care of a few things. Where on the road you place your tires. Pressure maintenance. Tire and rim strip replacement maintenance. You'll learn which tires and widths work better for you (wider are more robust and offer more traction). You'll learn to check the tire's tread section for bits imbedded and remove them before they fully penetrate through. You'll learn to brush off the tire treads sections after riding through glass patches.

Still with all this there will be mystery flats. No found penetration or cuts from wiggled out flakes. No cut casings or rim strips. Valve bases can give out (often from low pressure riding). Tube can be abraded by the casing inside surface (low tire pressure again). New wheels can have metal shavings trapped by the rim tape that can move around and get at the tube. Valves can get a scored seat then leak.

At one flat for 400 miles the op is not out of the ordinary. I get about one flat every 1000+- miles. The best years are about one for 3000 miles. The worst are three in one day.

Today I repaired 5 flats at work. Only one was a fleck of glass. Another was a side wall cut aneurysm. Another was internal abrasion. Another a valve base tear. The last one I was a pinch flat.

Like so many issues with riding the solutions are more with the rider and less with the equipment. Andy.

Since I am an all-year commuter and prone to reduced circulation in my fingers, getting a flat outside walking distance from either goal or start during winter is a fairly big issue. I lose dexterity and sense of touch way faster than the average guy, and I get it back way slower than the average guy. A winter puncture means either abandon the ride (with all the hassles THAT means, getting a taxi that can take the bike, leaving it for later pickup, switching to public transport...) or risk injuries similar to frostbite on top of cuts and scrapes from working with numb hands. And losing nails isn't fun at all.
So I've used airless AKA airfree AKA solid tires extensively. They are a compromise, but they're definitely rideable. If your loathing of flats is big enough, maybe they'll work for you.

Fitting the largest slick or semi-slick tires that will clear (no tread means nowhere for junk to get caught) with a Kevlar or similar belt (I have had good luck with Michelin City Tires' Protex belt), run at sensible pressures and avoiding road hazards and junk accumulations is the best you can do. Keep a patch kit and a spare tube, a reliable inflation means and, VERY important, any tools you will need to change/fix a puncture. If you cannot mount the tire by hand you MUST have the needed tools with you on the road. I use a frame-mounted pump (Road Morph G) since air is free and it will not run out like CO2 bulbs.

Even the finest, thickest "thornproof" tube will not stand up to a shard of glass or a steel wire; at best they resist long enough for an observant rider to remove the debris, hopefully before it works itself all of the way through. There used to be sold spring wire "tire sweepers" which would ride lightly along the tire and theoretically knock loose stuff the tire picked up before it could penetrate the tire. The fact that they are not wildly popular is a testament to their effectiveness.

What do you mean by "slow leak"?

AFIK, all tubes slowly loose air.

Latex tubes are "tougher"

No flats this year as in none with 5,000+ miles using Challenge Parigi-Roubaix, Schwalbe One, Vittoria CX EVO III but mostly Compass Extra Leger tires.

Yes, they are more expensive, more difficult to mount, and you have to pump them up before every ride as if who doesn't pump their tires. A buytl tube is in my seat pack along with a patch kit just in case.

OP: when you get a flat, it is important to identify the reason otherwise you might get another flat a few miles down the road. Small sharp objects can partially lodge into the tire casing. These glass or thorns or small pieces of metal can usually be felt by running your finger along the inside of the casing or running a cotton ball inside. Then, pluck it out before putting another tube into play.

I have bikes with Kenda's and Michelin Airstops and both seem to perform about the same. I have a pair of Michelin Protek's that I'll press into service whenever I either build a new bike or change tires. The Protek's are supposed to be self healing but they seem a little gimmicky to me.

(I feel like I just set myself up for a flat)

Thanks. I may try one of the thorn proof tubes, but I've heard that they tend to fail at the valve, and if that is so, that wouldn't be much of an improvement. And I agree with you on the Mr. Tuffy liners. I tried those on a hybrid bike once, and had one pinch flat right after another. I've heard many others with the same complaint about them.

I noticed that something was off during a 25 mile ride. I stopped, and the rear tire was low. I could pump it up and get about five miles out of it before it needed air again. Most flats I've had were instantaneous, or nearly so, so I call this one a slow leak. I'm aware that all tired suffer from air osmosis. That's why they have to be pumped up before nearly every ride.

:thumb:

Fill a sink with water. Take the tube off the wheel and pump some air into it so that it is slightly pressurized. Submerge the tube in the water and look for air bubbles. You may also be able to hear the leak once it is off the wheel. Without the tire there, the leak will likely be faster than on the bike.

Note: Yes there are more expensive Brands.

Stem separations may be the result from riding the tire Under Inflated

You may find it helpful to turn the tire inside-out when searching for those elusive bits; it will put the inside wall under tension and help open up any small holes. Microfiber cloths (the smooth, slick kind) seem to snag any small sharp spots very effectively, you can also use them to wipe your face and hands when you are done..

Yes, and you don't have to by shy about it. Pump it up until it's 2x or more times its normal diameter. If the leak is due to a puncture this stretches the hole open and helps make the leak more obvious. Once you find it, mark it and let the air out of the tube. It will return to normal size.

If you keep your tubes oriented the same way with respect to the tire, knowing where the hole is in the tube will help localize where to look in the tire for the offending object.

There's downhill tubes also,like thornproof all over.

Flats are pure luck, or lack of it lol You can get 10 flats in a week, or none for a year. Most stuff that causes flats/slow leaks is hardly visible when embedded in the tire. Most likely tiny, very tiny piece of rusted wire, or incredibly small piece of glass. Don't expect to see it right away. If you find one - double, triple check for more.
Any tire and tube can be punctured easily. You also should check the rim/tape itself for sharp edges. I buy tubes from Performance Bike. They are pretty cheap, and very good quality made.

I ride on fat low pressure tires, with a rubber breaker layer or kevlar liner. I get a flat about once per the life a tire, say one every 1500 miles (3K per tire, I have two...). You can improve your odds by using good tires, and not doing things like riding down alleys full of broken beer bottles in the rain. (Memo to myself: go look for flats...)

I'm a big fan of the Michelin airstop tubes, they repair well, and the valves do not seperate from the tubes.
worth the effort to track down.

Some are recommending getting rid of the tube all together and going tubeless. Sounds crazy but many claim this is a more reliable option. I am not speaking of experience however.

I've found the Schwalbe inner tubes to be excellent. They seem thicker than the others.

The easiest way to get a thicker tube is to buy the largest tube that fits. More specifically one that when filled fills the tire without stretching much.

I don't think it makes enough difference to prevent punctures, but it reduces the need to pump as often, and seems to prevent the type of flat caused arrow and deep rims.

One thing not mentioned could be the valve itself. I had one going flat overnight until I dribbled a little oil into the valve. And what Loogi and Caliper said - pump it up to find the leak.