SR Suntour XCR
09-06-14, 04:42 PM
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removing SR Suntour XCR crank arms
I have a SR Suntour XCR crankset that I'm attempting to remove so I can check out the bottom bracket. Before getting to use a crank puller on the crank arms, there's a cap covering the slot that needs to be removed with a hex wrench. I've been able to remove the cap where the drivetrain is since the LBS might have removed it recently to do some work on the chainrings, however the cap on the other side I'm not able to even budge. I'm assuming because the drivetrain cap was removed via a counter-clockwise rotation of the hex wrench that the other side would be a clockwise rotation? Any tips on how to remove this cap?
09-06-14, 04:54 PM
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I believe these are regular threads. Spray it with wd40 or similar and wait. When you put it back - add little bit of grease on the thread.
09-06-14, 08:15 PM
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Both sides are right hand threaded and remove counter-clockwise. The same is true for the crank fixing bolts. The only left-hand threads are the drive side bottom bracket cup (assuming an English bottom bracket) and the non-drive side pedal.
09-07-14, 10:24 AM
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ugh, I soaked that hole with WD40 overnight and then wiped up the excess this morning... unfortunately when I tried going counter-clockwise on that damned hex I was beginning to strip it with the amount of force I was using. I think I'm gonna have to take this into the LBS to have them have a crack at it unless there's any other suggestions?
09-07-14, 11:48 AM
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Trying it clockwise definitely put you in a bind. It's best to either look it up or use some thought when you're not sure of threading direction. As the same tool is used for both crank arms the extractor threads that the cap threads into have to be the same on both sides.
If it's plastic you can just break it and take out the pieces, or you can drill two holes the correct size and use a pin wrench to remove. Those are the methods a shop would use. But you can also try a penetrant that's better than WD-40.
If it's plastic you can just break it and take out the pieces, or you can drill two holes the correct size and use a pin wrench to remove. Those are the methods a shop would use. But you can also try a penetrant that's better than WD-40.
09-07-14, 11:58 AM
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It is nominally an 8mm hex; depending on the tool you have it, may be a bit undersized. Inch sizes (at least the older ones) are often closer to their nominal size, and sometimes a 5/16" will fit better than an 8mm hex. I have a set of socket hex bits and a 2ft long breaker bar for the tough ones.
