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Show us your hand made tools

Old 10-14-14, 12:25 AM
  #26  
hairnet
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The most important tool.

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Old 10-14-14, 02:21 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Camilo View Post


A home made dropout alignment tool - plenty of leverage to bend drop outs into alignment.
I just happen to be needing those tomorrow. Thanks.
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Old 10-14-14, 03:01 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by hairnet View Post
The most important tool.

Thread winner!
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Old 10-20-14, 06:46 PM
  #29  
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This is inspired by my recent Sturmey Archer rebuild, and is mostly tongue in cheek.

Wheel clamped to workbench, to facilitate loosening the ball ring with hammer and punch:

Crescent wrench makes temporary "vise" for holding on to axle during disassembly:

Combination hub rebuilding station, ball catcher, and grout mixing tub:

Professional repair stand:

Last edited by Gresp15C; 12-10-16 at 08:42 AM.
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Old 10-20-14, 08:09 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Dan Burkhart View Post


Thread winner!
I'll go one (or two) better with a chromed stay and a Campagnolo dropout:

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Old 10-20-14, 08:56 PM
  #31  
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How do these work? Someone needs to post a video
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Old 10-21-14, 04:24 AM
  #32  
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Every time we have a thread like this one it renews my faith in the human race.
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Old 10-21-14, 05:47 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
I'll go one (or two) better with a chromed stay and a Campagnolo dropout:

Very nice, but I did rather like the shellacked tape handle.
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Old 10-23-14, 12:29 PM
  #34  
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anyone have a tool to remove a stripped crank arm? The park tool with an extra lever was too much for the ISIS BB mated to a Raceface crank. I have heard of people cutting it away, but that sounds pretty drastic. better ideas out there?
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Old 10-23-14, 12:41 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by qclabrat View Post
anyone have a tool to remove a stripped crank arm? The park tool with an extra lever was too much for the ISIS BB mated to a Raceface crank. I have heard of people cutting it away, but that sounds pretty drastic. better ideas out there?

A 2 or 3 jaw gear puller can be used...if you are careful it won't muck-up the crank too bad. There are also some tapered shims that can be hammered in behind the crank to wedge it off the bb spindle.

-j
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Old 10-23-14, 12:59 PM
  #36  
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you must mean this tool, found it for $20 US nearby, anyone else tried this?
the hammering might cause damage to the aluminum frame

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Old 10-23-14, 01:06 PM
  #37  
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yes that it....some of them have an extra spot to attach a jaw and you pull one off and move another to the 4th spot so it turns into a 2-jaw puller...a bit more versatile and can usually be found for a similar price (check amazon I think the brand is Tekton or Tektron). You may find you need the versatility to get the tool situated to pull evenly without putting to much pressure in one spot. Good luck.

-j
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Old 10-23-14, 09:18 PM
  #38  
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file:///Users/jamessandymccrae/Desktop/P1010519.JPGfile:///Users/jamessandymccrae/Desktop/P1010517.JPGfile:///Users/jamessandymccrae/Desktop/P1010522.JPGfile:///Users/jamessandymccrae/Desktop/P1010521.JPG
The truing stand is teak and bronze-cost me $5 for fancy black knobs. The dishing gauge is ash and brass from the scrap bin. The nipple driver cost me 29 cents for the blade and 10 cents for the acorn nut.... they all took more time than could ever be justified compared to the cost of commercial versions but it brings me pleasure to build 'em and every time I build a wheel....
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Old 10-23-14, 09:18 PM
  #39  
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Pardon me, looks like the photos didn't drag and drop as expected.
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Old 10-25-14, 09:43 PM
  #40  
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This is what happened when you have to much time on your hands LOL.
My motorized system for cleaning bicycle chains, keeps all the rollers moving while soaking getting all the grime out. I move it thru mineral spirits, I run it for about 15 min. on a timer.
This chain is on my commuting bike and has 7500 miles on it and still good condition.

Also I would not expect anyone to go buy this stuff to make one I had it laying around and did not know what to do with it LOL.


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Old 10-26-14, 07:43 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Rubato View Post
file:///Users/jamessandymccrae/Desktop/P1010519.JPGfile:///Users/jamessandymccrae/Desktop/P1010517.JPGfile:///Users/jamessandymccrae/Desktop/P1010522.JPGfile:///Users/jamessandymccrae/Desktop/P1010521.JPG
Originally Posted by Rubato View Post
Pardon me, looks like the photos didn't drag and drop as expected.
Your links are local to your computer; you need to upload the pictures to a hosting site for the rest of us to see them.
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Old 10-26-14, 03:19 PM
  #42  
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Just built my first wheel with this truing stand and dishing gauge:


And this nipple driver:
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Old 10-26-14, 08:52 PM
  #43  
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that's really pretty cool, but don't expect to build one anytime soon.

Originally Posted by JTGraphics View Post
This is what happened when you have to much time on your hands LOL.
My motorized system for cleaning bicycle chains, keeps all the rollers moving while soaking getting all the grime out. I move it thru mineral spirits, I run it for about 15 min. on a timer.
This chain is on my commuting bike and has 7500 miles on it and still good condition.

Also I would not expect anyone to go buy this stuff to make one I had it laying around and did not know what to do with it LOL.


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Old 02-02-15, 01:31 AM
  #44  
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I just made this a couple of days ago.





It is a drill guide for drilling out the brake bridge.

I didn't trust myself drilling it by hand. This creates a hole perpendicular to the seat stays, in the middle of the (1/2") brake bridge, and straight through the bridge.

I did not mark it for right/left alignment (done by eyeball, but perhaps I'll get at least some alignment marks scratched on it sometime, if I ever need to use it again. That is the problem with single-use tools.

I might have been able to use a "V" shaped guide, but this seemed appropriate for the task at hand.

With the guide, the center punch may seem redundant, but its primary function (1/2" head) was actually to aid with spacing and aligning the blocks on the guide.
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Old 02-02-15, 02:28 AM
  #45  
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For those asking for a homemade head tube star nut setter...a length of 6mm threaded rod longer than the distance from the bottom of the fork crown thru the top of the uncut steerer tube with a 10mm nut threaded on and epoxied in place or use a second nut tightened against the first as a jam-nut. Use a piece of 1.5" to 2" diameter dowel, with hole drilled in its side for the threaded rod to pass through, up against the area under the fork crown with washer between the nut and the dowel. Then use a ratchet wrench to pull the starnut squarely down into the headtube.

Park star nut setter: @$30
Threaded rod/nut/dowel: @$5

No hammering required.

-j
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Old 02-02-15, 07:37 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by JTGraphics View Post
...My motorized system for cleaning bicycle chains, keeps all the rollers moving while soaking getting all the grime out...
Nice. An embellishment might be to rig up two jockey wheels (perhaps an old RD cage assembly) submerged in the solvent to bend the chain both ways as it travels through the solvent.
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Old 02-02-15, 09:27 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Looigi View Post
Nice. An embellishment might be to rig up two jockey wheels (perhaps an old RD cage assembly) submerged in the solvent to bend the chain both ways as it travels through the solvent.
Ya I'm actually working on that now already looking for a few things before finishing it up not a priority hi on my list right now but some day.
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Old 02-02-15, 11:16 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by hairnet View Post
The most important tool.

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