Internal Gear Hub Brake options
 

Hey, I'm new to internal gearing and have few questions.

If I were to use hub gear such as Shimano Nexus 3 can I use caliper for braking? Or do I have to use those ugly integrated nexus brake? Also can I install nexus 3 on any 700c wheels? Hubs gear means Hub for the wheel itself? Also can I use regular pull up cable brake levers? Not specific nexus 3 levers.?thanks in advance

Moved from SS/FG.

It seems that Shimano nexus 3s hubs come in coaster brake or disc brake versions only. Of course, if you don't mount the disc you can use it with the rim brakes. I believe that the hub even comes with a cover for when people don't use the disc mounting option.

You can visit the site here and review all the choices of hubs and lever systems.

Yes you can lace a nexus hub onto a 700c rim. The rim doesn't care what hub's laced to it.

Yes, you can use any standard short-pull brake lever with caliper brakes. Just don't get one that's labelled as a V-brake lever, as that won't work.

Depending on the diameter of the spoke holes in your current rear hub, which will match a replacement hub only by happy coincidence, you'll need new spokes as well, and you'll need to run your specs of your new set up through any one of a number of online spoke length calculators to figure out the correct replacement spokes length.

The Shimano Nexus 3 disc hub is expensive; I'd also be considering a Sturmey Archer 3sp hub @ $40 cheaper. And I'd be weighing the cost and effort of building a wheel/having a wheel built with a new hub vs. buying an off the shelf built wheel.

The answers to all your questions are basically yes.

If you are building a brand new wheel with new rim, hub, and spokes, you might want to buy a new wheel or even wheelset. It is more economically this way. There is a wheelset with Weinmann DA17 rims, SS spokes, Nexus-3 (non coaster brake) hub, tubes and 700x32 tires for less than $200.

If you are using an existing wheel and it has a high flange hub, then you can get an older 3-speed hub with similar flange diameter so you can use the same spokes. The older Sturmey Archer AW3 has a slightly larger flange diameter than the older Shimano (non Nexus) hubs. If you have a low flange hub in it now, try a spoke calculator and change the cross pattern (add a cross), etc, you might still be able to use the old spokes. This way, you might get a rear wheel built for less than $20-25 (for the cost of an older hub).

I have various both the older 3-speed hubs (AW and Shimano) and the newer Nexus, the older ones are just as good, if not better. The newer ones do look nicer, though.

If you are not against coaster brake, I would get a 3-speed coaster brake hub. It is really a combination of the best in both worlds. Just add a front rim brake. I have two such hubs (both older Shimano hubs) and one of them is on a Worksman Industrial (heavy duty) tricycle and it works very well, even under load.

Thank you all.I only have experience with derailleur system and these coaster brake, roller brake etc is new to me.I haven't bought anything yet no wheels no framset at this stage.is building wheels on 3 speed hub cheaper than buying complete set? I want regular 700c with normal hub in the front.can I use any shimano nexus 3 gear hub with rim brake? I see on google some is compatible with coaster roller disk brake etc? I try not use above brakes! If u buy nexus 3 coaster brake model then do I have to use coaster brakins system or any rim brake will do? Also SRAM I motion 3 which is cheaper option? Nexus and I motion requires 135 rear spacing?? Also is there a bar end shifters that works with internal gear hubs 3 speed?

My plan : buy a frame set , build 700c wheels on 3 speed hub, put bullhorn with TT brake levers for rim brakes, and use bar end (indexed possibly) shifters to change internal gear hub.
Can I use internal gear hub on normal road bike frame set? Thank you everyone in advance

I found this on a UK site.Sturmey Archer Freewheel Hub for Trike TS-RF3 - £67.99

sturmy Archer srfe 3 speed. Can I use it with rim brakes? Also is it good value?

Not sure about the OP's frame details, but the disc nexus will be spaced at 135mm, and being that this thread was originally posted in the FGSS forum, i bet there's gonna be 15mm's worth of discrepancy between the hub and the frame. He could spread the frame, or he could try to swap out those dooky-fat jam nuts for something slimmer**.... or, some combo of both. Personally, I think mconlux is spot-on in recommending the Sturmey-Archer; those things can be spaced down to less than 110mm OLD on some of the no-brake versions. Cost less, too.

**Not too sure of the Nexus axle threading, but google suggests it's 3/8x26tpi.... I found some slim 3/8"x24tpi jam nuts for a few cents at the local hardware; not sure if 26tpi is as easily sourced.... I mean, I got some in my basement, but....

I see Sturmy archer S- RF3 has option in terms not axle length.175,163 and 148? What is axle length? Again i will use road bike specific frame or track team if possible.axle leght has to do with frame design or? Ah I need lots of digging into cycling related stuff :D

That's a rike hub; it's got a sprocket bolted onto the DS flange, for the trike's secondary chain which drives the axle. You could probably use this hub, but i've never removed the sprocket and tried to lace a wheel with one.... safr bet would be this:
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/sturmey-a...33022/?geoc=us
Same hub, but without the bolt-on trike sprocket. Spaced at 127mm, but easily reduced if need-be.

Or, this:
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/sturmey-a...33022/?geoc=us
Essentially, the same hub but with a steel hubshell and a few bucks less. Factory-spaced @118mm, you could easily add spacers to increase this if you need to.

HTH
Rob

Axle length is how long the threaded axle upon which the hub sits is.... the axle length needs to be long enough to account for the space between the dropouts, and still leave enough space for the axle nuts. Typically, the 148mm Sturmey-Archer hubs are available in 28h only, and are spaced at a very narrow 108mm. The 163 will be spaced at 117 or 118 from the factory. The 175mm will be spaced at 126mm. These figures represent the space taken up by the hub, between the "locknuts", on the axle, and should correspond to the space between the dropouts on your frame. With most hubs, the spacing can be increased by adding spacers; in some cases, there will be spacers from the factory that, once removed, will reduce the spacing. With "normal" hubs, axles can be changed by cutting them down, but most Sturmey-Archer hubs have an axle that is hollow on the driveside, and gears are changed by a chain within the axle, so you wouldn't want to cut a Sturmey-Archer axle. You can swap axles, but be prepared to spend a lot of time/effort getting the adjustment of the hub itself right after an operation like that.

If I were you, i wouldn't buy a hub until I'd settled on which EXACT frame i was going to use, so I could select the hub that best fit my needs. Make sense?

Thank you very much. I'm looking at a single speed frame set that has 120mm rear spacing wondering if any of these would fit? Thanks a lot again.deeply appreciated.

So my provisional set up plan is to use on one Pompino v4 frame set with 3 speed gear hub and mini v brake or cantilever with TT levers on bullhorn bar and thing bar end shifters.
Link to the frame set I'm eyeing on http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/FROOPV4/...no-v4-frameset 120mm rear spacing...

OK Rob thanks. So if I were to buy framset with 120 mm rear spacing the I'd better of buying 163mm Sturmy Archer Hub if its 118 mm? Or buy 148mm hub gear and add spacers? What u think? Cheers

For a Pompino, go with the 163mm axle... get an s-rf3 or an AW. If you've got OCD, you can add a 1mm spacer to each side, but I think I'd probably be tempted to just run the 118mm hub as-is. I think canti's will "feel" better with the TT levers than mini-Vs will, but that's prolly a subject for a different thread.:thumb:

OK so this one http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/sturmey-a...d8162/?geoc=us 163mm axle length and over locknut dimension is 117mm does it mean it can fit in 120mm rear spaced frame without issue? Sorry again for asking dozens of questions.

I don't think you'll find a better hub for your project, given that you want a 3speed with rim brakes on a on-one Pompino. Up to you if you want to space the hub oput to a proper 120mm or not.... you can do that with bits from the hardware and some cone wrenches, should you decide to go that route.

Surreal you have been extremely helpful thanks a lot ! The help you provided is Unreal not surreal :D

To resist torque windup, you have the anti Rotation washers to add so that will bring it out to near the 120.

if combining to more than 120 , they can be on the outside, too, and thinner grip washers inside to be spot on.

or added ti a underlock nut stack so as to stay with the hub.

in addition , you have this hub
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/sturmey-a...22072/?geoc=us
it offers both a multi speed fixed gear, Plus , by threading on a normal freewheel , you have a freewheel hub.

Note the threading on the splines ..

Thanks. =D


F-Bob mkes a good point here; i hadn't thought to put the anti-rotation washers inboard.... that's a great idea!

What's anti rotation ?:O

There are slotted washers on most internal hubs, to keep the axle from turning in the drop-outs under torque, which would F the shifting if it did. These are usually run outboard of the dropouts, right under the axle nuts. F-Bob suggested putting them on "backwards", between the dropouts. Capitol idea, I'd say.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=411808

Torque. resistance

it is part of the requirements of Planetary gear systems , those gears in there , 1 around the axle
1 attached to the hubshell and 4 little gears connecting the 2 .

So I need to buy one of these on the top of the internal gear hub?