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Chainring adapter 130 bed to 110 bcd?

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Chainring adapter 130 bed to 110 bcd?

Old 10-20-14, 08:37 PM
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Robnhood1952
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Chainring adapter 130 bed to 110 bcd?

I currently have a double combination of 46/38. I would like to widen that out a little to a 46/34 but a 130 bcd apparently will not support a ring smaller than a 38. Is there an adapter that permits this!
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Old 10-20-14, 08:59 PM
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alcjphil
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The spider of a crank with a 130 mm BCD is physically to large for a chainring smaller than 38 teeth. A chainring smaller than that would have the spider sticking out past the teeth of the ring. If you want smaller chainrings you need a different crank
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Old 10-20-14, 10:08 PM
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It's barely conceivable to take this chainring:
Porkchop BMX Single Speed Bicycle Chop Saw I Chainring 46T 110 130mm BCD Silver | eBay
bolt it to your crank, bolt a 34-tooth chainring to this chainring with a spacer in between, and put it on your bike after installing a longer bottom bracket in order to get everything to clear your frame. It's possible, but it's a hell of a kludge and it's something I would only do to satisfy my curiosity and perverse need to do things the most difficult way I can think of.

The fastest and perhaps cheapest way it to change to a 110mm BCD crank.
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Old 10-20-14, 10:15 PM
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^^ I've seen where someone did that Kludge .. the 10 bolt-hole 130-110 PCD chainring has been out for a while in the Bike parts biz..

was for the BMX set so doubt of any use with thin derailleur chains for the latest kit.

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Old 10-21-14, 12:20 AM
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A few cranks have spiders that can be changed (e.g., Cannondale, Specialize, TA, Middleburn), but not many models offer this option. What is the brand and model of your crank?
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Old 10-21-14, 02:16 AM
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Far better just to purchase the crankset you need rather than bodge together something inferior.

If you go with some micky-rig you will probably have to deal with chain line issues or frame clearance problems requiring a BB change, and may find that it won't work with your FD or won't shift well. When all is said and done, many of these make-do projects cost as much or more than doing it right in the first place and result in a lot of wasted effort and frustration just to end up with something that really doesn't work all that well.

I'm assuming you have considered this, but just to cover the bases, what is the largest cog on your cassette? If you currently have something like an 11-28 with some unused RD capacity, going up 2-4 teeth in back will do as much as or more than going down four teeth up front at a fraction of the cost.

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Old 10-21-14, 08:01 AM
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+1 to the above -- just find someone to swap cranks with. I use 130 BCD double cranks on my road bikes, since I like to use the largest possible BCD that still allows low enough gears: 38/28 on the rando/touring bike, 39/23 on the go-fast bike. Oh, and 45T on a 144 BCD crank on my fixed-gear (42T in the winter.)
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Old 10-21-14, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by ThermionicScott View Post
+1 to the above -- just find someone to swap cranks with. I use 130 BCD cranks on my road bikes, since I like to use the largest possible BCD that still allows low enough gears: 38/28 on the rando/touring bike, 39/23 on the go-fast bike.
You should have noted that these chainring combinations on a 130 mm BCD crank (38/28 and 39/23) require a triple crank with a separate granny bolt circle. Most typically 130/74 but how did you mount a 23T chainring?
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Old 10-21-14, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
You should have noted that these chainring combinations on a 130 mm BCD crank (38/28 and 39/23) require a triple crank with a separate granny bolt circle. Most typically 130/74 but how did you mount a 23T chainring?
Guess I should have been clearer about my gear combinations -- I'm using older road cranks that aren't triples. The rando/touring bike has a 50/38 double with a 13-28 cassette, and the go-fast bike is 48/39 with a 13-23 cassette. If and when I need lower gearing than 35", I'll probably revert back to a triple.
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Old 10-21-14, 06:58 PM
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