Lockring stuck on bracket Cup
 

Hey,

I am trying to restore an old 1955 Triumph that I bought at a car boot sale. I was removing the bottom bracket today and have been having a problem removing the lock ring. I was using a hammer and punch to turn the lock ring (it was very stiff). Once it was loose I managed to remove it almost completely before it got stuck again. When I resumed using the hammer and punch I ended up just loosening the bracket cup which has now come free with the lock ring still attached.. I can get the cup back on but the lock ring doesn't go flush and I am concerned it will not be properly sealed.

Apologies if this isnt clear but I have attached a photo to make it clearer hopefully!

http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/z...23-WA0001.jpeg

Thanks,
Sam

Soak the entire thing with good penetrating oil and let it work.

That Sheldon nut and washer set can grip the adjustable cup. once the rust is soaked in the penetrating oil.

then use your lock ring pin /hook spanner ... got one? No?, then back to the hammer and drift punch..

you can try making a makeshift pin spanner from a heavy guage wire coat hanger or by trying to use a needlenose plier in the holes on the face of the adjustable cup. Though the correct tool(s) is not too expensive and will help you reinstall and adjust if that is your plan.

-j

Given that the lock ring is relatively thin and flexible, you could bang on it from the edge to limber it up. I'd do this gently with a wooden mallet or block of wood to avoid damaging the knurls.

Have you checked the cup to make sure it's useable?

Assuming standard thread for easy replacement, you can carefully saw through the lockring to split it, then pry it off.

A 1995 Triumph will have Raleigh (26 tpi) threads. Even a lockring, let alone a cup, will be a challenge to replace, although there's a chance with a lockring that a standard one might work well enough.

Doesn't anyone own thread files, anymore? They can clean up the threads on even the most exotic tooling, including Raleighs.

What's the relevance? I was initially suggesting to check for wear/pitting on the bearing surface of the cup, then cautioning against destroying a lockring that may be very difficult to replace.