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Solid front axle, threads, what the?
Maybe it's purely psychological, but I don't like quick release. It seems like the front skewer is the jesus bolt of the bike. I know this is not a widely held view, but bear with me.
So I looked closely at a front hub in my box and concluded that it's a 9x1 mm thread. I ordered a 9x1 mm rear axle and cut it to appropriate length for the front. So far so good. The cones from my wheel don't fit on the new axle! The threads don't match, though the diameters are the same. And the cones are definitely not 10 mm, 3/8 inch, or 5/16 inch, which might be other possible standards. They're some screwy thread. What gives? It was a spare hub from who knows where, that seemed to be in good condition. |
Hub threads are one of 3 common pitches. 1mm, 24tpi and 26tpi. There are probably some others, but these are the most common.
Odds are your axle is 24tpi, though vintage European could easily be 26tpi. Get a ruler and count the threads of the original axle, over 1/2" and you'll know. Or simply compar to see if the pitch is slightly closer or wider than the 1mm on the new axle. |
What country and decade is your hub from? Being that your axle has been removed you can get a better measurement.
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Hub is "Excel." Never heard of it. I'm betting it's one of the two English dimensions, maybe 26. The hub is back on the bike already, but I will probably look for another junker hub to scavenge cones from.
Update: Wheel #2 , on my "fun" bike is a success. So, that other hub must just be an oddball. |
Further point of confusion. I've not seen any rear axles that are 9mm in diameter. Lots that are 9.5mm, or 3/8", in diameter though. Mixing and matching hub parts without the ALL pieces in hand is a crap shoot. When a wheel comes into the shop and the customer is asking for cones or axles I ask who is going to do the work. If they are then I tell them to come back with everything taken apart and cleaned up. Only then will I have the ability to truly compare and pick replacements. Andy.
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Second point. There was an odd hub back in the day labeled Excell which had it's own dimensional specs. Including odd sized balls. Good luck. Andy.
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Originally Posted by Gresp15C
(Post 17302225)
Maybe it's purely psychological, but I don't like quick release. It seems like the front skewer is the jesus bolt of the bike.
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Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart
(Post 17302794)
Further point of confusion. I've not seen any rear axles that are 9mm in diameter. Lots that are 9.5mm, or 3/8", in diameter though. Mixing and matching hub parts without the ALL pieces in hand is a crap shoot. When a wheel comes into the shop and the customer is asking for cones or axles I ask who is going to do the work. If they are then I tell them to come back with everything taken apart and cleaned up. Only then will I have the ability to truly compare and pick replacements. Andy.
Wheels Manufacturing AXLE-14 I figured the only thing "rear" about it was the length, and I cut it down to 142 mm, after measuring the outer dimensions of my bikes and adding the thickness of the nuts, which have floating serrated washers. But I agree with the crap shoot bit.
Originally Posted by HillRider
(Post 17302859)
Well, from a mechanical standpoint, a properly tightened qr skewer is inherently safer than a nutted axle since it can't spontaneously loosen. A nut can vibrate loose but a skewer goes "over center" as it is tightened and the force needed to open it actually increases for the first part of the lever travel. Properly used (emphasis on properly) qr skewers have a stellar safety and reliability record.
Anyway, I don't have enough knowledge or evidence to weigh into a debate on this, so it's just my own personal pursuit. I've certainly never experienced a skewer failure myself, or even heard of such a thing. |
Originally Posted by Gresp15C
(Post 17303875)
Oddly enough, I searched high and low for a solid front axle, and ended up with this product:
Wheels Manufacturing AXLE-14 I figured the only thing "rear" about it was the length, and I cut it down to 142 mm, after measuring the outer dimensions of my bikes and adding the thickness of the nuts, which have floating serrated washers. But I agree with the crap shoot bit. My thought process is that a single point failure of the skewer results in a crash, especially since neither of my bikes has lawyer lips. On the other hand, two nuts would have to both fail in order for the wheel to fall off. Failure of a single nut would result in reduction of function, but not a crash. Anyway, I don't have enough knowledge or evidence to weigh into a debate on this, so it's just my own personal pursuit. I've certainly never experienced a skewer failure myself, or even heard of such a thing. |
Originally Posted by AnkleWork
(Post 17303895)
[Rhetorical question] Why not just get a complete front axle set with cones, nuts, etc?
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I figured the only thing "rear" about it was the length Outliers Exist, I own a Sturmey Archer Freewheel Drum Brake Hub it is a 9mm solid axle, like the Front. |
Originally Posted by Gresp15C
(Post 17303919)
Because that would have been the smart thing to do. ;)
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
(Post 17303935)
rear: 10x1 front: 9x1... good luck with your reckoning .. may work out better in other pursuits..
Outliers Exist, I own a Sturmey Archer Freewheel Drum Brake Hub it is a 9mm solid axle, like the Front.
Originally Posted by AnkleWork
(Post 17304030)
I'm certain there's a better answer.
From the manufacturer who made the 9x1 mm axle, it looks like 9 x 26tpi is "Campagnolo" style, so I am honored to have a cheap clone of "Campagnolo" rather than a cheap clone of "Shimano." ;) |
Of course I cannot see a thing ..
Generically a rear hub tends to use 1/4" balls a front smaller ones like say 3/16. 5/32" the cones differ as a result + the axle diameter. I found the 'Wheels'for Campagnolo to last longer than Tulio's Originals .. perhaps the old Italians tempered them too hard . the Upstart Colorado company left a little ductility in the temper. |
Originally Posted by fietsbob
(Post 17304659)
Of course I cannot see a thing ..
Generically a rear hub tends to use 1/4" balls a front smaller ones like say 3/16. 5/32" the cones differ as a result + the axle diameter. I found the 'Wheels'for Campagnolo to last longer than Tulio's Originals .. perhaps the old Italians tempered them too hard . the Upstart Colorado company left a little ductility in the temper. |
I realize this is just a personal pursuit, so if this gets too difficult, I suggest you give up. Learn how to use a skewer properly, and you won't have an accident. Millions of people have been using them for decades. I ground the lawyer lips off my bike, because I already have an ingrained habit of using the skewer properly, and I don't like unscrewing the skewer after flipping the lever. I feel safe.
If you do find an axle onto which your cones fit, then fine. I don't have any reason to advise against a solid axle. They work just as well. I have solid axles and nuts on some of my bikes. I have to remember to carry a wrench in my tool kit when I ride one of them. |
Originally Posted by noglider
(Post 17307949)
I realize this is just a personal pursuit, so if this gets too difficult, I suggest you give up. Learn how to use a skewer properly, and you won't have an accident. Millions of people have been using them for decades. I ground the lawyer lips off my bike, because I already have an ingrained habit of using the skewer properly, and I don't like unscrewing the skewer after flipping the lever. I feel safe.
If you do find an axle onto which your cones fit, then fine. I don't have any reason to advise against a solid axle. They work just as well. I have solid axles and nuts on some of my bikes. I have to remember to carry a wrench in my tool kit when I ride one of them. |
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