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I want to build my first Clyde wheel - what do I need?

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I want to build my first Clyde wheel - what do I need?

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Old 12-02-14, 11:14 AM
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Jarrett2
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I want to build my first Clyde wheel - what do I need?

I've decided I want to give wheel building a try. I want to build a single rear road bike wheel that can handle 260+ lbs.

I'm trying to stay low cost on my first wheel just in case I fook it up.

I'm thinking a 32 spoke DT Swiss rim, but not sure on the spokes or hub. I was thinking Ultegra hubs just due to cost and durability.

What parts do you recommend? How do I know what size on the spokes? Where should I order the parts from?

I have the Park Big Blue book and have been watching some wheel building videos on YouTube.

Do I need anything other than my trusty Park TM-1 tension gauge and spoke wrench?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 12-02-14, 11:34 AM
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Drive train determines the Hub Yea Shimano 105 will do Too.

I deal with the LBS


there are abundant online things to look for , to calculate length .. Its come Up before so search Back, Here.

36 rear 32 front is also a reasonable choice 3 cross .. Perhaps the DT alpine on the DS, a 13ga hook 15Ga mid and 14 Ga on the Nip end.

I like the Bicycle Research screw driver-crank as It lets me bring up the tension a half turn at a time , equally. as I go around the rim .
'
You going to do this truing on the Bike?

Ive built many wheels and never own a tension gage .. still ride on some I built in the mid 70's

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Old 12-02-14, 11:48 AM
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I wouldn't worry excessively about screwing up your first attempt. It isn't that complicated. The main thing is to take your time and to pay attention to the details. I stick my thumbnail into the last spoke thread and spin down the nipples to that point. That way I know that I'm starting every spoke in the same place. Then I count turns on each nipple with my spoke wrench as I gradually build up the tension. I once built up a 40 spoke tandem wheel (Velocity Aero Heat rim & Alpine spokes) this way that needed no final truing whatsoever.

I just use spoke calc to determine spoke length. Many builders fuss about measuring all the dimensions themselves, but I've yet to be burned.
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Old 12-02-14, 11:51 AM
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What size tire are you planning to run? I have had good luck with my 105 hub, dt swiss db spokes on a mavic A 719 touring rim, 36 hole. I'm 235 lbs plus gear. Running 35 mm tires on a cross check for commuting. 3x spoke pattern, I would recommend 36 in the back.
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Old 12-02-14, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Jarrett2 View Post
I've decided I want to give wheel building a try. I want to build a single rear road bike wheel that can handle 260+ lbs.

I'm trying to stay low cost on my first wheel just in case I fook it up.

I'm thinking a 32 spoke DT Swiss rim, but not sure on the spokes or hub. I was thinking Ultegra hubs just due to cost and durability.

What parts do you recommend? How do I know what size on the spokes? Where should I order the parts from?

I have the Park Big Blue book and have been watching some wheel building videos on YouTube.

Do I need anything other than my trusty Park TM-1 tension gauge and spoke wrench?

Thanks in advance!
This will probably start a flame war but I'll say it anyway. What hub you use and what rim you use don't really matter. The rim and, to a lesser extent, the hub are convenient places to attach what really matters in terms of wheel strength...the spokes. The spokes to all of the heavy lifting and they never get the credit.

If you really want to build a strong wheel for a heavy rider or carrying a heavy load (or both), go to a triple butted spoke. That's a 2.3/1.8/2.0mm spoke (although the middle could but 1.5mm without issues). DT Swiss sells the Alpine III which is rather expensive (~$2 per wheel) and only come in black for the US. Pillar Spokes can be had from BDop Cycling for around $1 per spoke (without nipples).

Wheelsmith and Sapim sell an unbutted version of the same spoke but I haven't looked at the cost.

Look around on Pilar's site to see the difference in strength between a conventional straight, butted or triple butted spoke. The triples are much stronger.
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Old 12-02-14, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
You going to do this truing on the Bike?
Yep, soup to nuts is the goal.

Originally Posted by Retro Grouch View Post
I just use spoke calc to determine spoke length. Many builders fuss about measuring all the dimensions themselves, but I've yet to be burned.
Where is this?

Originally Posted by cyccommute View Post
DT Swiss sells the Alpine III which is rather expensive (~$2 per wheel) and only come in black for the US. Pillar Spokes can be had from BDop Cycling for around $1 per spoke (without nipples). Wheelsmith and Sapim sell an unbutted version of the same spoke but I haven't looked at the cost. Look around on Pilar's site to see the difference in strength between a conventional straight, butted or triple butted spoke. The triples are much stronger.
Cool, thanks. I didn't even know those were an option.

First of many dumb questions, how do I know if I need straight or J bend spokes?
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Old 12-02-14, 12:15 PM
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J bend with a Head is for a standard Hub .. like regular hub types.
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Old 12-02-14, 01:51 PM
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For low cost, I'd recommend a Sun Rims M13II or CR-18, depending on the width you want.
I use 32 spoke M13's on my hybrid w/25mm tires and I'm 250. IF I wanted a 32mm or more tire, I'd use the CR-18.

While on vacation, I dropped the rear into an old fashioned storm sewer grate, bouncing my butt 8-10" of the seat. Only needed a bit of touch up truing when I got around to it a month or so later.

IF you want to stay cheap, you could get Sora or Tiagara hubs, but spending a few $ more on a better hub such as a 105 isn't a bad idea.
I used DT Swiss 14/15DB on the DS and 15/16 DB on the NDS.
For mixing small spoke orders, this is a pretty good place.
DT Swiss Components | The Colorado Cyclist
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Old 12-02-14, 04:57 PM
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Good info, thanks. The tire will be in the 25mm range.

Is it best to order from one place or get parts from different sources?
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Old 12-02-14, 05:46 PM
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Let your wallet be your guide.
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Old 12-02-14, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Retro Grouch View Post
I stick my thumbnail into the last spoke thread and spin down the nipples to that point. That way I know that I'm starting every spoke in the same place.

.
first time I've heard this--makes sense and sure beats trying to do it by eye--Thanks!
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Old 12-03-14, 12:24 PM
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I talked to Wheelbuider today about a good setup to start with and they suggested this:

Wheelbuilder:
DT Swiss RR 585 Rim - 28 or 32 hole - $79.95
DT Swiss 350 Classic Rear Road Hub - 28 or 32 hole - $219
DT Competition Double Butted Spoke w/Silver Brass 14mm DT Swiss - 18 @ 282mm - $21.24
DT Competition Double Butted Spoke w/Silver Brass 14mm DT Swiss - 18 @ 281mm - $28.44
Wheelbuilder Rim Tape - $2.50
Total $351.13 + shipping

Are there better/less expensive ways to go for the first Clyde build?
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Old 12-03-14, 01:00 PM
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That's an excellent wheel - although you could get an Ultegra hub for about half of that DT Swiss... the rim is exactly what I was going to recommend.

Excel Sports has a custom wheel builder app - this is fun to play with and you could recreate exactly that wheel and play around with substitutions. It's intended for them to do the build but it would get you the proper spoke lengths and such to build yourself.

Excel Sports - Custom Wheel Builder - I think you could knock $150 off the price you got from Wheelbuilder.

Also, make sure you get the right hub for the drive train you're using... 11sp?

And DT does make some 36 rims designed for loaded touring if you want to go even stronger...
http://www.dtswiss.com/Components/Rims-Road/TK-540

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Old 12-03-14, 02:28 PM
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I've built a few wheels for heavy weights and use either 15-16 or 14-15 double butted spokes. 36 spokes on a Mavic Open Sport or a Mavic 319 if you can fit the wider rim and tires. The 105 hub is as good as you need.
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Old 12-03-14, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by DiabloScott View Post
Excel Sports has a custom wheel builder app - this is fun to play with and you could recreate exactly that wheel and play around with substitutions. It's intended for them to do the build but it would get you the proper spoke lengths and such to build yourself.

Excel Sports - Custom Wheel Builder - I think you could knock $150 off the price you got from Wheelbuilder.
Wow, their builder says they can build a RR585 wheel with Ultegra hubs for $218. That's with them building it. Only $25 less if I buy the parts.

Are they a reputable wheel builder? Are there other builders out there that are more competitively priced than that?
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Old 12-03-14, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Jarrett2 View Post
Wow, their builder says they can build a RR585 wheel with Ultegra hubs for $218. That's with them building it. Only $25 less if I buy the parts.

Are they a reputable wheel builder? Are there other builders out there that are more competitively priced than that?
I had them build me a pair a few years ago - they even had a set of DA hubs on sale (7800 series just after the 7900 series came out). They did a great job - I put them in my truing stand and dinked with a couple nipples but didn't really need to correct anything.

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Old 12-15-14, 11:47 AM
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I ended up buying a wheel from Exel Sports. I added it up and it only cost me an additional $10 for them to build it versus buying the parts and building it myself. And they said they could have it to me in a week from the order being placed. It's hard to jump into a building when there is a service like that out there. Assuming they do good work...

The wheel is supposed to come in this week. I'll give it a good checking with my tension meter to make sure its all good.
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Old 12-15-14, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Jarrett2 View Post
I ended up buying a wheel from Exel Sports.
Excel ent! Glad I could help.
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