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removing a stuck pedal

Old 12-02-14, 11:17 AM
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qclabrat
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removing a stuck pedal

aside from knowing the direction, do you have tips on removing stuck pedals?

nothing worse than impaling your knuckles on the chain ring, how do you get leverage on either side of the frame while ensuring safety?

the bike in question is an 80's Univega
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Old 12-02-14, 11:24 AM
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Long Pedal wrench , bike on the ground , have someone Hold the opposite Up crank arm, Step On The Pedal wrench with Your Foot..


After riding transcontinental I am often the one given the task of Boxing the bike to ship Back across the Country in the LBS.

often the pedals are really stuck ..

Last edited by fietsbob; 12-02-14 at 11:45 AM.
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Old 12-02-14, 11:28 AM
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My method:

On the right (drive side), place crank pointing forward, place wrench on pedal flats so that the wrench handle points backward and is above the bottom bracket. Then place your foot on the wrench handle, put some weight on it to see everything is stable and wrench doesn't pop off the pedal flats, then add body weight until the pedal starts to unscrew.

On the left (non drive side), crank points forward, wrench handle points rearward (because thread reversed)

The key is to have the wrench handle above the bottom bracket, that way you can apply downward pressure without rotating the crank, and thus don't need a helper to hold the crank.
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Old 12-02-14, 12:35 PM
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If you can arrange for the wrench to be back and over the arm close enough to grip both with one hand, then do that and squeeze both together, which eliminates any torque on the crank. Otherwise besides the the sit on the bike and push both sides with your feet method described by Jyl, my plan-C method is as follows.

Position the wrench so you can pull it away from the crank. Sit on the ground behind the bike, push the opposite pedal with your foot while pulling the wrench. Since you're pulling instead of pushing there's zero risk of pounding the chainring if it jumps.
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Old 12-02-14, 01:01 PM
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Sometimes they can be a real bitc7876
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Old 12-02-14, 01:03 PM
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Well to protect your knuckles, shift the chain onto the large chainring so you don't impale yourself on the teeth
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Old 12-02-14, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
If you can arrange for the wrench to be back and over the arm close enough to grip both with one hand, then do that and squeeze both together, which eliminates any torque on the crank. Otherwise besides the the sit on the bike and push both sides with your feet method described by Jyl, my plan-C method is as follows.

Position the wrench so you can pull it away from the crank. Sit on the ground behind the bike, push the opposite pedal with your foot while pulling the wrench. Since you're pulling instead of pushing there's zero risk of pounding the chainring if it jumps.
Bold statement is my preferred strategy when it is possible. If it is really stuck and you really need it off, then destructive removal is usually possible by removing the cranks and putting the pedal in a well anchored bench vise.
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Old 12-02-14, 01:06 PM
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A sharp rap on the end of the wrench with a large rubber mallet works well.
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Old 12-02-14, 01:07 PM
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Making sure that your chain is on the large chainring will help minimize knuckle damage in case of accidental impact. Extra points for covering the ring with a towel or shop rag.

You also need a long wrench handle for the necessary leverage. If using a hex driver from the back of the pedals make sure the driver is in good condition and remember that you will have the thread direction apparently reversed from the outside view.

A pre-treatment with Kroil of PB Blaster will help ease removal, as will greasing the threads, for next time.
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Old 12-02-14, 01:22 PM
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heat
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Old 12-02-14, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by howeeee View Post
heat
I second heat. Obviously being careful not to melt any plastic if there is any. Also leverage will help a lot. If you have a long pedal wrench and a cheater bar it should come loose. Also try some Liquid Wrench and let it soak into the threads.
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Old 12-02-14, 01:32 PM
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Worst case, take the crankarm off and wrap it up and put it in a vise.
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Old 12-02-14, 02:33 PM
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thanks, will try the suggestions tonight, will hold off on heat and vise options

the crank arm press works well, but more times than not they are not aligned for that option such as in this case
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Old 12-02-14, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Coal Buster View Post
A sharp rap on the end of the wrench with a large rubber mallet works well.
Rubber is not my hammer of choice for this method, but this is my method of choice. I usually use a 32oz brass hammer. Then you don't lose as much of the shock into the rubber face of the hammer. The quick shock is the key, you usually don't have to beat on it hard. No balance required.
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Old 12-02-14, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by qclabrat View Post
aside from knowing the direction, do you have tips on removing stuck pedals?

nothing worse than impaling your knuckles on the chain ring, how do you get leverage on either side of the frame while ensuring safety?

the bike in question is an 80's Univega
Remove the crankarm from the bike. Insert crankarm in large bench vise surrounded by blocks of wood to secure and protect arm. Apply a 15" wrench with an extra foot of cheater bar. Get your 300 pound mechanic pal to jump up and down on the cheater bar. When the flats on the pedal shear off, go to Plan B, which involves disassembling the pedal and using a 30 pound pipe wrench to torque on what is left of the pedal axle. Repeat with the jumping up and down.

This is what I had to do to a bike sold to me by a dummy who did not grease the threads of the pedal on installation, and he then rode for a winter in water and salt. Plus he did not replace his chain for more than a year, so the chainrings and cassette were toasted as well.

Pedal wrecked, and a premature $350 drivetrain replacement bill.

BTW: the crankarms were carbon. Heat and chemicals need not apply.
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Old 12-02-14, 07:52 PM
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Take a piece of wood, broomstick, or the handle from your floor jack that you happen to have nearby and stick it through the rear wheel across the bike between the opposite crankarm and the chainstays so the crank cannot move. Then remove your stuck pedal with the crank locked in place. This way you don't have to remove it and put it in a vise. For increased leverage, slip a piece of tubing over your pedal wrench so you have a longer lever arm.
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Old 12-02-14, 09:38 PM
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Here's what I've done. I stand the bike on the floor, and support the end of the crank arm with a block of wood from the floor. Then I push down on both the bike and the wrench. I don't have a pedal wrench, but haven't had a pedal that I couldn't get my large crescent wrench onto.
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Old 12-02-14, 09:47 PM
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Affix a paddle for leverage to your wrench, a kayak paddle works good for this. Stabilize your bike directly under the soffit of your house. Get it good and solid, like to a big fence post or something. Get the wrench on the flats of the problem pedal, and have the paddle 'floating' in free space about 2 o'clock or so. Get on a good pair of boots. Now, get out your ladder and climb up onto your roof. Proceed to jump off the roof onto the paddle. This gives tremendous leverage and has never failed to remove even the most stubborn pedal.
But seriously, get a good pair of work gloves and have at it, it will loosen, and your hand will only be impacted once, at most!
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Old 12-02-14, 10:28 PM
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The worst pedals are those which don't have flats and take a large hex key in the axle. I slip a seatpost on the hex key for leverage.
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Old 12-02-14, 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Yan View Post
The worst pedals are those which don't have flats and take a large hex key in the axle. I slip a seatpost on the hex key for leverage.
I prefer a hex key every time. Much less likely to round off (with a good wrench). Even the best open ended wrenches stretch.
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Old 12-03-14, 03:51 AM
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I use a Harbor Freight Serpentine Belt Removal Tool. Costs about $12 on sale. It has a flat metal handle almost 24" long and comes with (3) crowfoot wrenches, including a 15mm (which is the size used for pedals).

Rotate the crank till the crankarm with the pedal you want to remove is at the rear. Place a concrete cinder block under the crankarm with a piece of a 2 X 4 on top of the block. Rest the crankarm on top of the block. Apply the the crowfoot wrench to the pedal flats, and with you foot resting on top of the crankarm (pushing it down on the 2 X 4) rotate the belt tool handle over the top towards the rear of the bike, loosening the pedal axle.
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Old 12-03-14, 09:01 AM
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success
removed both pedals last night, though visualizing some of your suggestions was difficult for me
I used Jicafold's method with a sledgehammer handle
bike is steel so wasn't concerned about dents to the chainstays, would not do the same for carbon, aluminum or even Ti

the PW-3 was really helpful this time

Last edited by qclabrat; 12-03-14 at 09:02 AM. Reason: typo
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Old 12-03-14, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by qclabrat View Post
I used Jicafold's method with a sledgehammer handle
bike is steel so wasn't concerned about dents to the chainstays, would not do the same for carbon, aluminum or even Ti
You are not allowed to work on my bikes
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Old 12-03-14, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by trailangel View Post
You are not allowed to work on my bikes
I know, right?
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Old 12-03-14, 09:50 AM
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ha...wouldn't hire myself either
went down at midnight with the urge to remove
only recommended for beaters please
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