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Disc Rotor questions?

Old 12-02-14, 09:23 PM
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Disc Rotor questions?

So I currently have 56" Disc Trucker (from Surly) with Avid BB7 Mountain brakes and 160 rotors. However I have some questions since I am relatively new to disc brakes:

1. They say you can't use HSX rotors (the Avid heat shedding rotors) and I am curious why?
2. Would that be the same for lets say Ice-Tech rotors (assuming of course they are 6 bolt)
3. Would there be a huge upgrade in performance if I switched to a more heat shedding rotor?
4. Could I use 170mm rotors on the bike?

Thanks in advance for the help and many apologies for the ignorance.
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Old 12-02-14, 09:38 PM
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This thread on MTBR has some good info on BB7s and HS1 rotors.


If you want to improve your BB7s' performance, consider fitting (Avid) organic pads and compression-free cable housing.


Surly may have limitations on supported rotor sizes, so you should probably contact them directly.
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Old 12-03-14, 08:49 AM
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Those rotors would only have an affect on performance if you are regularly doing long mountain descents, and only if during those descents you are experiencing brake fade. If your brakes don't work as well as you want in normal conditions, these will do nothing to fix it.
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Old 12-03-14, 09:18 AM
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Change to Rim Brakes.
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Old 12-03-14, 10:49 AM
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Hydros have problems heating the Fluid , smoking BB7s results in Melting the plastic Knobs..

IDK if the disc size increase to 210, and of course the adapter to reach them clears the fork on a LHT-D

inspection and measurement may net the answer , but not from Here.
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Old 12-03-14, 11:21 AM
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trail

Why go retro, when the industry is going to disc brakes?
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Old 12-03-14, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by veganbikes View Post
So I currently have 56" Disc Trucker
You must be very tall, a 56" frame is 142 cm. I assume you mean a 56 cm frame.
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Old 12-06-14, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
You must be very tall, a 56" frame is 142 cm. I assume you mean a 56 cm frame.
Yes I don't know why I did that. Probably just auto piloting or wasn't thinking.

I have no interest in a rim braked touring bike. I like my discs I am just looking to potentially improve them and maybe cut a touch of weight. Plus in addition to liking my discs my frame is set up for discs and not cantis. All of my future touring plans are going to be in the U.S. where finding discs and pads for Avid BB7s is generally pretty easy or at least easy to order and ship.

I will check with Surly about sizing. I feel like I read somewhere 160 was the largest but I read so much about bikes and gear I could have mixed that with something else. Thanks to all for help.
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Old 12-07-14, 09:07 AM
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The next real step up in braking performance (not major though) is to go hydro. But of course this either means using flat bars or going to the recent drop levers w/ shifting. And for long term touring, even in NA, I question this being a good choice.

I suggest that you keep the BB7 and rotors and just maintain them well. I agree with mark on the pads and cables.

I've found that when touring, especially loaded/self contained, having really strong brakes isn't as strong a need as when generally riding (commuting or clubbing). I've not gone faster then 45mph on a fully loaded (60-80lbs) bike, ever. Including some of NA's most rugged mountains. There's just too much wind resistance with 4 panniers, a HB bag and your tens/bag and pad on the rack top. The need to stop suddenly is almost never a likelihood when on the open road. Maybe when in campgrounds or in towns but then you're riding pretty slow already. Andy.
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Old 12-07-14, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart View Post
The next real step up in braking performance (not major though) is to go hydro. But of course this either means using flat bars or going to the recent drop levers w/ shifting. And for long term touring, even in NA, I question this being a good choice.

I suggest that you keep the BB7 and rotors and just maintain them well. I agree with mark on the pads and cables.

I've found that when touring, especially loaded/self contained, having really strong brakes isn't as strong a need as when generally riding (commuting or clubbing). I've not gone faster then 45mph on a fully loaded (60-80lbs) bike, ever. Including some of NA's most rugged mountains. There's just too much wind resistance with 4 panniers, a HB bag and your tens/bag and pad on the rack top. The need to stop suddenly is almost never a likelihood when on the open road. Maybe when in campgrounds or in towns but then you're riding pretty slow already. Andy.
You can also go with the HY/RD brakes from TRP. They are mechanically actuated hydros and seem to have good ratings, that way I don't have to get hydro levers and such especially since I use cross levers as well.

The performance isn't bad and I haven't had any problems. I figure though it wouldn't hurt to make some improvements that could cut out a touch of weight, look a little nicer and maybe add a touch to the braking. Plus my pads are getting a little worn.
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Old 12-07-14, 08:56 PM
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why go retro, when the >some of< industry is going to disc brakes?
fi,fy
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