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Replace 10sp SRAM cog w/Miche cog - will shifting suck?

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Replace 10sp SRAM cog w/Miche cog - will shifting suck?

Old 12-26-14, 09:35 AM
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JohnnyCyclist
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Replace 10sp SRAM cog w/Miche cog - will shifting suck?

Specifically, I want to remove the 14t cog from a SRAM 12-32 and insert a Miche 16t cog between the SRAM 15 and 17 cogs. That would give me a 12-13-15-16-17 progression, which is better for me: 12-13 for downhill, 15-16-17 for flats, and the remaining five cogs for uphill. The 14t on the stock SRAM 12-32 is a "wasted gear" for where I ride and my cycling ability.

I have three bikes w/SRAM 12-32 cassettes. I was able to obtain one (1) individual SRAM 16t cog, and did what I describe above. It shifts fine - I love it.

SRAM doesn't sell individual cogs, unfortunately, so obtaining two more SRAM 16t cogs is not an option. But there are 10sp Miche 16t cogs. Does anyone have experience with plugging a Miche cog into an SRAM cassette? Would shifting be ok, or would it suck?

Thank you.
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Old 12-26-14, 10:45 AM
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With 1T increments, it's kind of hard for the cog NOT to shift OK.
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Old 12-26-14, 02:54 PM
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The missing 14 will be a bigger ratio gap than the missing 16. Consider replacing the 12 and 13 with a first position 13, keep the 14, add the 16. I've done this with Shimano cassettes.
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Old 12-26-14, 03:19 PM
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It depends on how long you've been riding bicycles.

Replacing a single sprocket means that you lose the hyper in hyperglide (or is it the glide). If you look at your cassette you'll see a progression of the sift gates (cut down teeth). This phasing is what makes for smooth crisp shifting up and down the cassette.

The change means that odds are that it won't be in phase and you won't get the same smooth and crisp shift to or from it's immediate neighbors. OTOH, if you've been riding longer than Hyperglide, you're likely used to non gated shifting and won't be bothered.

So will it be terrible? --- No. But it won't be as nice as what you have now. Of course, ONLY shifts to and from the swapped sprocket will be affected, the rest of the cassette will shift as well as it always did.
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Old 12-26-14, 03:27 PM
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Yes the freehub is now made such that there is only 1 way the cogs go on so all the shift gates line up .

if they make a straight block cassette, Buy it, as a whole, and accept the low gear will be higher..


11-23: 10 speed SRAM
11-12-13-14-15-16 -17-19-21-23.

Last edited by fietsbob; 12-26-14 at 03:32 PM.
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Old 12-26-14, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
It depends on how long you've been riding bicycles.

Replacing a single sprocket means that you lose the hyper in hyperglide (or is it the glide). If you look at your cassette you'll see a progression of the sift gates (cut down teeth). This phasing is what makes for smooth crisp shifting up and down the cassette.

The change means that odds are that it won't be in phase and you won't get the same smooth and crisp shift to or from it's immediate neighbors. OTOH, if you've been riding longer than Hyperglide, you're likely used to non gated shifting and won't be bothered.

So will it be terrible? --- No. But it won't be as nice as what you have now. Of course, ONLY shifts to and from the swapped sprocket will be affected, the rest of the cassette will shift as well as it always did.
I have been of the thought that the rotational placement of the shift gates across the entire cog set is to insure better shifting when shifting more then one cog at a time. Otherwise why should it mater where the second cog up's gate is if you're only shifting to the first adjacent cog? But then this only reinforces Francis's comments as the more experienced one is the less the need to dump more then one cog at a time and the easier you'll do it any way. Andy.
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Old 01-01-15, 08:34 PM
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Like you, I like the 16t cog. So, I've tried mixing Shimano & Sram cogs on one cassette, but shifting was abysmal.

The issue is that, between Shimano & Sram cogs, the teeth are rotated/offset differently in relation to the splines that align the cogs on the freehub body.

"Down" shifting (from a larger cog to a smaller cog) worked ok. However, "up" shifting (from a smaller cog to a larger cog) was very problematic. Had to up-shift two gears, and back down one.

If it's possible (and I'm able to figure it out), I'll post a pic to illustrate it later.
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Old 01-01-15, 08:42 PM
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Well, I only seem to be able to show thumbnail sizes, but you can click the pics for larger views.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg
15-16.JPG (37.0 KB, 23 views)
File Type: jpg
16-16.JPG (18.0 KB, 30 views)
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Old 01-01-15, 09:04 PM
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To be contrary, I will suggest you drop the 13 and go 12, 14-15-16-17. I do this on my 9 speeds for riding in Oregon, where high speed descents happen often enough that I want the 12, but I rarely ride in fast groups, so dropping 2 teeth to the 14 is rarely a big deal. But having a 14-17 straight block? I love it!

Ben
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Old 01-05-15, 04:10 PM
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"Self Evident", I know what you mean about the mismatch between SRAM and Shimano cogs. I tried it and experienced the exact same thing .

As stated above, a SRAM 16t (taken from a SRAM 12/28 cassette, incidentally) works fine tucked between the 15t and 17t on a SRAM 12/32 cassette.

I just ordered a couple of Miche 16t cogs. I'll post a follow-up after I install them.
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Old 01-06-15, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnnyCyclist View Post
I just ordered a couple of Miche 16t cogs. I'll post a follow-up after I install them.
That would be great! (That way I don't have to spend any money to find out if it works or not...)
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Old 01-12-15, 11:12 AM
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It's no different with a Miche cog. You still have to shift twice (from 15t to 17t) then once (from 17t to 16t) to get from the 15t to the 16t. Bummer ...
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Old 01-12-15, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnnyCyclist View Post
It's no different with a Miche cog. You still have to shift twice (from 15t to 17t) then once (from 17t to 16t) to get from the 15t to the 16t. Bummer ...
Thanks for posting the result. Too bad Miche doesn't carry Sram compatible cogs. I've got several used Sram cassettes, but it's generally only the middle cogs (15-16-17 ) that are actually worn beyond use (chain skips with moderate pedal pressure). The remaining cogs still work.

While this doesn't help with your current situation, for the future the solution may be to get Shimano cassettes, as Miche cogs should work with them as desired. I assume, having never tried a Miche cog, but that is my plan.
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Old 05-15-15, 10:42 AM
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Wolf Tooth Components and OneUp Components both sell a 16T cog with ramps for both SRAM and Shimano cassettes. You place the cog on the splines in a certain location depending on whether your cassette is SRAM or Shimano.

The designated purpose of this cog is for mountain biking in conjunction with adding a 40t cog. Since you must remove a smaller cog (either the 15t or 17t, presumably) when you install the 40t, that introduces a huge gap in the small cogs. But if you remove both the 15t and the 17t, and install the 16t, the spacing remains even.

I don't even own a mountain bike. But I decided to give this a try for my road bikes. I chose (simply because since I discovered it first) the Wolf Tooth offering. I installed it on a 105-equipped bicycle with a SRAM 12-32 cassette as described in my initial post. Does it shift perfectly? No. But is it acceptable? Yes. I've ridden about a hundred miles with it and have NO intention of returning to the stock cassette configuration.

I also removed the wheel, put it on a SRAM Rival-equipped bicycle, and tested it on the workstand. In that very brief workstand test (shift across the 16t maybe half-a-dozen times), it shifted perfectly.

So, this is an unsolicited plug for the Wolf Tooth 16t cog. I haven't tried the OneUp cog, but I imagine the results would be about the same - the descriptions are almost identical. If anyone tries the OneUp cog, please post your results.

Going back to my original post, if you're interested in doing the same, check out the Wolf Tooth and OneUp 16t cogs.
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Old 05-15-15, 11:54 AM
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Kind of late to mention it now, but you can always grind down the wide spline on the individual cog to resemble the others. Then you get 8 possible ways to install it, some working better with the neighboring cogs than others...
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