How can I quickly clean my bike?
#26
aka Tom Reingold
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Furniture polish such as Pledge or Endust do a great job. Use a rag in a dental floss way in the tight spots.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#27
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I wouldn't use dental floss;it can be abrasive. Mythbusters actually used it for a prison escape myth. Use string instead.
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#28
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Here's an auto detailing tip that translates well to bicycles:
https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010...waterless+wash
Use that to create either a rinseless, or waterless wash. The dilution rates are on the bottle.
For rinseless, fill a bucket with warm water and the appropriate amount of ONR, then use a soft mitt and wash the bike as you would normally. Then simply dry it off with some microfiber towels. No need to rinse (hence, rinseless). Doing this with regular soap will leave streaks.
For waterless, get an empty spray bottle, and apply the waterless dilution into the bottle, and fill it with water (I don't make the terms). Then simply spray down the bike, and wipe it clean. And yes, this will work way better than most other spray-type-products, as it's designed specifically for this. If you've got a spot that's particularly dirty, saturate it with the spray and let it sit for a few seconds.
Another thing you can do afterwards, is wax your bike. Waxing it will help prevent some of the crud from sticking to it. But a word of caution; there's two reasons real car wash soaps exist (not the crap you get at Wal-Mart, the stuff a real detailer would use.) The first is lubricity. To prevent micro-fine scratches that, over time, dull the paint of a car; quality car wash soaps provide lots of lubrication to help get dirt off the paint without allowing it to scrape across the paint. The second, is that while it's capable of cleaning, it contains no degreasing properties. That's important, because soap with degreasing properties (including hand soap / washing up liquid) will remove wax. Hand soap / washing up liquid is fine, it'll get the bike clean. It won't offer any lubrication (but most of us aren't as worried about a pristine bike finish as we are a pristine car finish); and it will remove anything you've applied to try and keep the finish protected. It may also leave an invisible layer of 'scum' that may make it hard for waxes to adhere to the paint.
That might be overkill for most of you; which is fine. But I just figured I'd pass it along. I spray mine down using the 'waterless' method after every ride. And then every couple of rides use the 'rinseless' method so I can get my wheel brushes out and clean the spokes, tires, etc. I keep the bike waxed, to protect the finish and it really helps it stay clean. Salt, dirt, etc., doesn't adhere as well. Also cleans easier. (Plus, makes it more aero! I mean, probably not, but you might be able to convince someone it does...)
https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010...waterless+wash
Use that to create either a rinseless, or waterless wash. The dilution rates are on the bottle.
For rinseless, fill a bucket with warm water and the appropriate amount of ONR, then use a soft mitt and wash the bike as you would normally. Then simply dry it off with some microfiber towels. No need to rinse (hence, rinseless). Doing this with regular soap will leave streaks.
For waterless, get an empty spray bottle, and apply the waterless dilution into the bottle, and fill it with water (I don't make the terms). Then simply spray down the bike, and wipe it clean. And yes, this will work way better than most other spray-type-products, as it's designed specifically for this. If you've got a spot that's particularly dirty, saturate it with the spray and let it sit for a few seconds.
Another thing you can do afterwards, is wax your bike. Waxing it will help prevent some of the crud from sticking to it. But a word of caution; there's two reasons real car wash soaps exist (not the crap you get at Wal-Mart, the stuff a real detailer would use.) The first is lubricity. To prevent micro-fine scratches that, over time, dull the paint of a car; quality car wash soaps provide lots of lubrication to help get dirt off the paint without allowing it to scrape across the paint. The second, is that while it's capable of cleaning, it contains no degreasing properties. That's important, because soap with degreasing properties (including hand soap / washing up liquid) will remove wax. Hand soap / washing up liquid is fine, it'll get the bike clean. It won't offer any lubrication (but most of us aren't as worried about a pristine bike finish as we are a pristine car finish); and it will remove anything you've applied to try and keep the finish protected. It may also leave an invisible layer of 'scum' that may make it hard for waxes to adhere to the paint.
That might be overkill for most of you; which is fine. But I just figured I'd pass it along. I spray mine down using the 'waterless' method after every ride. And then every couple of rides use the 'rinseless' method so I can get my wheel brushes out and clean the spokes, tires, etc. I keep the bike waxed, to protect the finish and it really helps it stay clean. Salt, dirt, etc., doesn't adhere as well. Also cleans easier. (Plus, makes it more aero! I mean, probably not, but you might be able to convince someone it does...)
#29
aka Tom Reingold
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I didn't say to use dental floss. I said using a rag with a flossing technique.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#31
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With a clean bike, I apply an automotive wax. Since a bike doesn't need much wax, I use the most expensive Meguiar wax I can find. Having lots of time in the winter to work on my bikes, they get a lot of waxing. Washing only takes a few minutes, most of the time the dirt falls off with a light spray of water.
#32
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With a clean bike, I apply an automotive wax. Since a bike doesn't need much wax, I use the most expensive Meguiar wax I can find. Having lots of time in the winter to work on my bikes, they get a lot of waxing. Washing only takes a few minutes, most of the time the dirt falls off with a light spray of water.
You probably won't find them at the auto-parts store or big box store (Well, Meguires has one. They call it 'Ultimate Liquid Wax', which isn't actually a wax but a liquid sealant. Confusingly, their "Ultimate Wax", the paste wax, is a wax.) But you can get them at Amazon.com or Autogeek.net.
Of course, nothing wrong with wax either. Just tossing out an alternative. Little pricier but lasts a lot longer and is a big better protection. I like this one a lot (good bang-for-buck option as far as premium sealants go. A step above Meguiars box-store stuff, but not quite the level of the stuff a pro-detailer would put on a ferrari. Of course, uh, that stuff can run $3k for 8 ounces . There are 'better' options out there, too.) https://www.amazon.com/Detailers-Pro-...+detailers+pro
P.S., Meguiars stuff you can buy in a store (up to and including their 'Ultimate' line) in the detailing world is akin to department store bicycles. While their professional line (not sold in most stores) would be more like a middle-of-the-road bike at your LBS!
Last edited by RomansFiveEight; 02-13-15 at 04:26 PM.