I have a bike with Shimano 105 components and another with Alivio.

On the 105 bike the FD was rubbing against the chain in the hardest gears. I tried to adjust it and now I can't get the bike to shift smoothly between the hard and easy gears by the crank.

On the Alivio it has issues shifting smoothly between different gears while on the widest gear thing by the crank.

Obviously I have no clue what I'm doing. What are some tutorials I could watch so I can fix these types of issues myself instead of going to the shop?

Search for: How to adjust front derailleur

Also, not a video but very good info: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...ur-adjustments

I did and found a guide with a different front derailleur than mine. Tried doing what they did in the video and now I can't even shift to the hardest gears, much less have I fixed the chain rubbing.

Remove the problem derailleur and soak it in a solvent, mineral spirits, WD40 or similar.
If you do not feel confident about removing it try to clean and loosen the pivots with solvent while working the derailleur back and forth.
You may need to replace the cable and cable housing.
Use the derailleur setup and adjustment instructions found at Park Tool Co. » Park Tool Co.. Do all of the steps in sequence leaving nothing out.

I will do that for the Alivio derailleur but the 105 is only a week old so I don't think it needs a deep clean at this point.

Read all that and didn't learn anything I haven't figured out just from ****ing with my FD's. This is obnoxious, nothing I do makes it not rub the chain AND shift through all the gears on the 105 bike. Haven't even touched the alivio yet, just been messing with this one.

Before reading tutorials, and there are many good ones. Take a moment to understand Principles of FD-101.

First, alignment and height are critical, so start here.
2- limit screws are just that. They control the outer and inner limits of FD travel, but do not actually control the FD. But there's a catch, the inner limit also controls the innermost chainring trim because the cable is slack in that condition.
3- trim and shifting are a function of cable trim. It's always easier if there's some sort of adjusting barrel, so if non is built into the cable stop, buy yourself an inline adjuster.

Lastly a hint, that some tutorials don't offer. Adjust the limits while shifting by pulling directly on the cable rather than the lever. This prevents the index positions from sending you false cues. Then when the limits are set, adjust trim for good shifting and running in gear.

I won't go into details because the tutorials cover those well, and wish you good success.

Thanks, I'm going to keep trying. If I can't make it work by tomorrow I'll just take it to the shop and watch what they do. This is one of those things I need to learn eventually, so I figured I might as well try now.

Make sure the derailleur cage height and sight line are positioned correctly before proceeding with further adjustments. It sounds like you are having cable tension problems, so make sure this is checked next. You may need to adjust the cable to compensate for stretching that has occurred from normal service. You will need to set your limit screws next, and make these adjustments by pulling on the cables, and not using the shift levers. Be sure to set your limit screws on the front while also having your chain on the inner and outermost extremes on the rear to eliminate rubbing on the derailleur cage on the innermost and outer front chain rings. Once this is set, you can address any indexing issues. Park has a good tutorial on their website with lots of further information. Good luck!

Just don't get it.

VIDEO: how to adjust a front derailleur - This is the video I'm following for the 105 bike.

Following it step by step.

Got the height adjusted perfectly.

Got it rotated so it runs parallel with the chain rings.

Removed the cable, now I'm trying to adjust the two set-stop screws with the chain on the smaller chain ring.

I adjust the pins so while I'm in the easiest gear of the smallest ring, the chain does not rub against the FD on the frame side.

I cycle through the gears, getting to the hardest / highest, and the chain rubs on the other side.

No matter how I adjust set stop pins, it rubs on one side or the other. I haven't even gotten back to the large chain wheel, which was my original problem with this bike.

:/

I don't know what you mean by "You will need to make these adjustments by pulling on the cables, not using the shift levers"

Either way I'm on the small chain ring cycling through gears trying to eliminate chain rub and no matter what I do I can't get it to go away. Height and rotation are set and my cable is disconnected.

On most bikes the FD cage won't not rub (follow the negatives) with the chain coming from all the rear sprockets. So, adjust the inside limit so it Just barely clears the cjain on the inside (toward the bike) in low. It should not rub with the chain on the inner 2/3rds of the rear sprockets.

The outer limit is different and should not be used to set trim. Shifting by direct action (pulling the wire away from the downtube) loosen the outer limit until the chain can be dumper over the outside of the large ring. Now bring it in by degrees, trial and error, until you reliably cannot dump the chain, and stop there.

Now both limits are set, so it's a matter of setting the cable trim. The starting place is to pull out all the slack in low, and cinch it there and try to shift. Getting the slack out can be hard, so wedge a pencil into the mechanism to bring the cage out a bit, and take the slack out there, so that when you remove the pencil it drops back and kisses the limit stop and the cable is just barely slack. Test the shifting, and hopefully it shifts and trims OK. In high, you're looking for the outside cage plate to just clear the chain.

Some Shimano levers have a trim click, which allow the cage to clear in high, then there's a click which moves it in a hair to prevent rubbing when using the inner half of the cassette.

REMEMBER - the cable controls the shifts, and the limits prevent over-travel and chain dumps.

I give the same advice, and so assume we both mean the same thing. Instead of shifting with the lever, pull the bare wire away from the frame tube like a bow string. This will allow you to truly test the limit settings rather than being misled by the lever's travel limitations or clicks.

You want to be able to shift smoothly both up and down (like a non-index system) without being able to dump the chain beyond the inner or outermost chainrings. Once you know that proper shifting is possible, then you adjust the cable to get the index stops and trim right.

...

Buffalo Buff Better hit a Bike shop , I highly recommend delegating this to those who can see it.

I'm trying to put your advice to practice, but it's tough because I'm still very new to this.

I managed to get all the gears working perfectly except the lowest two on the small chain ring, which I'm okay with because I very, very rarely use such a low gear, and spend all my time on the hardest 4 or 5 gears typically.

Not completely sure what I did differently but it worked. I'm going to take down the alivio tomorrow and try some of the things everyone suggested some more. This is something I want to eventually understand inside and out. I've always been the dude with ****ty shifting on his bike and a clanky chain, because I had no idea how to adjust geared bikes. This is the first time I've managed to "fix" one this well. Only going uphill from here lol.

Fietsbob, if I have time tomorrow I'll stop it by a bike shop just so they can look it over and tell me what NOT to do next time

Search "cross chaining."

This. It sounds like you actually do know what you're doing on adjusting the FD, and that you're doing it just fine. I'm willing to bet that you just haven't learned of "Cross-chaining" yet.

When shifting, the biggest half of the cogs (the rear gears) are really only supposed to be used with the smallest os the chain rings (front gears.) The smallest and hardest half of the cogs are for the largest chain ring. Note that this is for a two-ring setup. If you have a triple, adjust for thirds rather than halves. Realistically, the middle two cogs can overlap a bit with rings. With those intentions in mind, even a perfectly adjusted derailleur will rub if not geared properly. Unless you're using SRAM's newest lines. I don't think Shimano makes the same accommodations.

It is probably too late but DO NOT GO MESSING WITH THE ADJUSTMENT SCREWS!!!!!!!!!

That is the last option for any shifting problem. You say that the 105 is only a week old which, I assume, means that it is either attached to a new bike or a new install. I'd further assume that it's attached to a new cable as well. I'd further assume that the derailer was working properly until just recently if the bike was set up by a shop.

You've got a cable problem related to cable stretch. I suspect that the derailer will move far enough outboard with the shifter but it won't stay there. Based on what you've said above, I suspect that this is all water under the bridge but you just need to tighten the cable a tiny bit with the frame's cable adjusters. It was a 30 second job.

A shop is probably your best option at this point but see if they will show you have to make minor cable adjustments.

On a side note: The more expensive Shimano front derailers are marvels of engineering and metal manipulation. They are light weight and have cages that are sculpted to enhance moving the chain from one ring to another. The sculpting would bring tears to Michelangelo's eyes.

They are also the most difficult to set up and least forgiving in use front derailers currently made. All that sculpting narrows an already narrow cage and makes rubbing issues more likely. They work best over a narrow range of gears which is funny considering how modern compact doubles need to work over a much wider range of gears.

The lower end Shimano derailers work much better over a larger range of gears without the hassles. They aren't sculpted as much and the cages are wider to begin with. A Tiagra may not be as light as an Ultegra but it works better. Consider that if this front derailer keeps giving you problems. Tiagra front derailers are dirt cheap , so the cost of replacement isn't going to hurt all that much.

If the high limit screw is in too much then you will not be able to shift up into the big ring. If the low limit screw is out too much (the gap between the chain and cage will be too big) then chain rub will be worst as you move down the cassette. Its best to check these first and foremost.


OP It sounds like you are on the right path but you are not aware or are using the trim function on your left shifter ? Basically you can nudge the front derailleur to the right slightly if you do a gentle sweep of the left shift lever. You will feel and hear a smaller click that happens before the big shift up onto the big ring.

By moving it into this trim position it will eliminate any rubbing in the smallest cogs (higher gears) at the back. The cable needs to be attached first and you need to set the correct cable tension with a barrel adjuster installed. If you dont have one its best to install one. It will make set up easier.

Before attaching the cable make sure to down click the left shifter into its lowest position.

If you try to set the cable tension by hand, then you will have less control and may have to keep re-attaching the cable and then end up wrecking the cable.

Also make sure the barrel adjuster is screwed all the way inwards before starting.

BTW cross chaining is mostly fine but its best to avoid big/big and small/small.

For a new install, I'd agree but if the derailer was functioning properly and the problem developed after a few miles - which appears to be the case here - drop the screw driver and step away from the derailer! All too often, the first thing that people adjust when a derailer isn't working properly is the adjustment screws. That's the last thing that should be checked or adjusted when a shifting problem occurs. The vast majority of shifting issues, including rubbing, is not due to a misadjusted limit screw. It's usually a cable issue. Adjusting the limit screws just makes the problem worse.

I work as the shop lead at my local co-op on Saturdays and I get 2 to 10 (depending on the season) people per day coming is saying "Well it wasn't shifting right so I adjusted those two little screws and it didn't help." It takes me longer to explain how to adjust the cable tension than it does to do it. I still say

DO NOT GO MESSING WITH THE ADJUSTMENT SCREWS!!!!!!!!!

'' rubbing, is not due to a misadjusted limit screw.''


I know. My comment was not meant to be about any rubbing. It was directed at ''That is the last option for any shifting problem'' which i disagree with. My info is legit.

If the OP wants to know how to set up his FD then he should know all the steps and the full procedure involved. Not be discouraged by being told not to touch stuff. If he thinks the screws may be set wrong, he can adjust them, learning what they do and how they function as he goes. If he learns now then he might save $$$ and time in the long run.

These are basic functions on a very basic mechanical component. Its not that difficult to correct. All you need is a
screwdriver and a little bit of know how.

Yes, Buffalo Buff should learn how to work on his bike. But part of learning how to work on a bike is to learn which part isn't working correctly and how to correct it. The limit screws have nothing to do with the issue at hand especially if the bike was working properly before the rubbing started. There is a time and place for limit screw adjustment but this is not the time nor place to learn about them. Cables and cable tension are just as important to learn about and Buffalo Buff's time would be better spent learning how to actually fix the problem than doing something that is unnecessary.

When I say ''That [adjusting the limit screws] is the last option for any shifting problem'', I don't mean it shouldn't be considered. I mean it should be the last thing considered after you have exhausted all other options. Your information would be legitimate if the problem were with the limit screws but, since the problem is a cable problem in all likelihood all you've done is muddy the waters.

Sorry, you are wrong and you are making false statements. Your advice is based on assumptons that could be totally wrong. I never implied once the OP's problems are with the limit screws, you did! but i already told you that. Im saying they are not the last thing you check but the first. It is vital they are set correctly. Not to hope they are! Then if they are not, do it later ? that is called working arse backwards my friend,and pure lazyness aswell.

The OP says he's been adjusting it. so its best to start again from scratch.

Yes it is. Why not learn it all together in one go ? He's trying to learn how to set up a FD. Not learn how to twist a barrel adjuster.

Its ALL nessersary! If you skip a step you will run into problems. Do it properly and cover all bases from the start.

And what are those ? There are no other options. there is alignment, limit screws and cable tension. In that order. If its done the opposite way you will throw the cable tension out of whack. Try it

Another thing to add. If the limits are not set correctly you can throw the chain off over the big ring - which is dangerous btw - Or it may not shift up onto the big ring at all. But as you say they are not important.

Newbies...

try this vid...