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One piece crank Chainring removal question

Old 01-13-15, 12:00 PM
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Justsomedude
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One piece crank Chainring removal question

Working on a 78 Schwinn
Newb that is slowly building a toolkit and knowledge...

I have a ParkTool Head-Gear Lockring Wrench ordered that has 41-42mm on one side and 43-44mm on the other side.
The internal lockring that holds the chainring on is 42mm.
Will the lockring wrench work for that?

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Old 01-13-15, 12:02 PM
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I believe that the lockring on your crank will be considerably smaller than that, and wrench won't fit.

That's IF you have a lockring there. The ones I worked on BITD all had hex nuts holding the chainring. Don't remember the size, but it was in the 1"+ range.
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Old 01-13-15, 12:15 PM
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All the one-piece cranks I've come across have just had the right-hand bearing cone holding the chainring in place, although the cones did have notches on them like a lockring. I've just used a brass punch and a hammer to take them off on the few occasions when I've had to, but I did generally have a vice to stick the crank in while I was doing it, doing it without one might be kind of annoying.
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Old 01-13-15, 12:17 PM
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I believe that unless you are dealing with a one piece crank with the Front Freewheel System (FFS) you just need a large crescent wrench. Every one piece crank I have worked with from Schwinns were all disassembled and maintained with a large crescent wrench. I have however never completely disassembled a crank with an FFS system.
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Old 01-13-15, 12:32 PM
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I was thinking a large crescent wrench as well. Anyway, it might help to post a picture of what you actually have if that's obviously not the answer. I'm visualizing something along the lines of a cruiser-style Ashtabula crank.
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Old 01-13-15, 12:33 PM
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This thread illustrates the problem with buying tools before you're ready to use them. The tools may or may not fit, and one is on order already. But since the tool isn't necessary to remove the crank, the OP can wait until he knows if he needs another tool, and specifically which until he has the crank off.
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Old 01-13-15, 12:43 PM
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This is what the OP needs. Park tool HWC-18. It's also used to adjust the bearings.

I'm with Airbust, I just use a punch and hammer.



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Old 01-13-15, 02:30 PM
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Actually I'm talking about another part.
I already have the Crank removed.
It's the last lockring holding the Chainring on.
It's very thin, 2 flat sides to grab.

I don't have a wrench that big...saw a video of someone removing it with a "C Spanner" and was wondering if the Lockring wrench is the same thing.
I ordered the Lockring wrench to use on a LOCKRING and not a random purchase.
Thought I would check before I went out and bought a wrench.

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Old 01-13-15, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Justsomedude View Post
Actually I'm talking about another part.
It's very thin, 2 flat sides to grab.
The tool has to match the part. Hook spanners of various sorts are for parts with notches for the hook to latch into.

As you point out, and the photo confirms, your has 2 flats. If you don't have a wrench big enough, bring it and a beer to someone with a halfway decent bench vise, and remove it that way.
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Old 01-13-15, 02:58 PM
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Thanks.
My LBS will do it for me.
but I'll be putting a new one on so will need a bigger wrench eventually
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Old 01-13-15, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Justsomedude View Post
Actually I'm talking about another part...
It's the last lockring holding the Chainring on.
It's very thin, 2 flat sides to grab.
That is the drive side cone and those flats are 43mm apart. Park used to make a tool specifically for that (also sold by Schwinn). It hasn't been available for a while but both Park and/or Schwinn versions do turn up on eBay: RARE Park Tools HCW 1 Schwinn Crank Wrench 43mm 37mm | eBay

As an alternative you can also use a bench vise or a 15" (or larger) adjustable wrench: Sears.com
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Old 01-13-15, 04:00 PM
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Just got back from LBS.
They couldn't do it. They didn't have a wrench that large and when using the bench vise as a wrench, the crank kept popping loose out of the vise.
There's another shop across town that specializes in vintage bikes.
Might try there.

Soaking threads in WD40.
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Old 01-13-15, 04:08 PM
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FYI that isn't just a lockring, that is also the right-hand bearing cone for the bottom bracket, which in your case has flats for a spanner* but in most of the cases I've seen has notches for a hook spanner.

Edit: Also WD-40 isn't ideal for loosening stuck threads. It's better than nothing, but if you get dedicated penetrating oil/spray you might have more luck. I use the 3in1 penetrating spray for stuck stuff.



*As an aside I think I should be calling it a wrench, I believe a spanner is a specific type of wrench in the US but I can't remember what specific type. Is it what we call a pin spanner in the UK?

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Old 01-13-15, 05:10 PM
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Success!

Just got back from a friends shop where he had a more stable benchvise.
Came right off.

Thanks
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Old 01-14-15, 12:41 AM
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Ah...thanks.
i had a feeling there was a special tool.
If I decide to make a habit of working on Schwinns that might be a good thing to have.

Originally Posted by Metacortex View Post
That is the drive side cone and those flats are 43mm apart. Park used to make a tool specifically for that (also sold by Schwinn). It hasn't been available for a while but both Park and/or Schwinn versions do turn up on eBay: RARE Park Tools HCW 1 Schwinn Crank Wrench 43mm 37mm | eBay

As an alternative you can also use a bench vise or a 15" (or larger) adjustable wrench: Sears.com
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Old 01-15-15, 10:43 AM
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This is a pretty crazy thread. I mean, when I was a child back in the late '50s, I decided I wanted a Bendix Automatic rear hub in my Roadmaster. Part of the job was converting to 1/2" pitch from 1" pitch, so I had to put a chain and front chain ring on it. When I saw the picture of that big cone with the two flats, it all came back. My dad had tools, including really big adjustable wrenches. I did that kind of stuff myself. Its been many years, but I think I had the bike shop build a new wheel for the Bendix. I can't get my head around anybody having this much trouble taking the chain ring off an 'ashtabula' crank.
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Old 01-15-15, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 1saxman View Post
This is a pretty crazy thread. I mean, when I was a child back in the late '50s, I decided I wanted a Bendix Automatic rear hub in my Roadmaster. Part of the job was converting to 1/2" pitch from 1" pitch, so I had to put a chain and front chain ring on it. When I saw the picture of that big cone with the two flats, it all came back. My dad had tools, including really big adjustable wrenches. I did that kind of stuff myself. Its been many years, but I think I had the bike shop build a new wheel for the Bendix. I can't get my head around anybody having this much trouble taking the chain ring off an 'ashtabula' crank.
I'm sure the chainrings WERE easy to take off THEN
This one hadn't been off in 35 years and was stuck...and the LBS Vise was too wobbly
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Old 01-15-15, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 1saxman View Post
This is a pretty crazy thread. I mean, when I was a child back in the late '50s, I decided I wanted a Bendix Automatic rear hub in my Roadmaster. Part of the job was converting to 1/2" pitch from 1" pitch, so I had to put a chain and front chain ring on it. When I saw the picture of that big cone with the two flats, it all came back. My dad had tools, including really big adjustable wrenches. I did that kind of stuff myself. Its been many years, but I think I had the bike shop build a new wheel for the Bendix. I can't get my head around anybody having this much trouble taking the chain ring off an 'ashtabula' crank.
Not to put too fine a point on it, was there really any reason for saying that other than to feel smarter than the OP? The purpose of this forum is to help other people learn, after all.
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Old 01-15-15, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 1saxman View Post
..... I can't get my head around anybody having this much trouble taking the chain ring off an 'ashtabula' crank.
Actually, this is more an indicator of your limited experience than the OP's.

Anyone who's done enough mechanical work on anything, knows from sad experience that there's a vast gulf between "should come apart easily" and "will come apart easily" (or at all).
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Old 01-15-15, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by SquidPuppet View Post
This is what the OP needs. Park tool HWC-18. It's also used to adjust the bearings.

I'm with Airbust, I just use a punch and hammer.



Ive done well with Just a screwdriver , the Keyed anti rotation washer works well, so Tightening the Nut really does not move the Adjustment much .

Yes the bench Vise to hold the crankarm to Unscrew the cone behind the chain ring Is very Useful.
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Old 01-15-15, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Little Darwin View Post
I believe that unless you are dealing with a one piece crank with the Front Freewheel System (FFS) you just need a large crescent wrench. I have however never completely disassembled a crank with an FFS system.
Here's one from an 80's Ross
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Old 01-16-15, 01:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 1saxman View Post
This is a pretty crazy thread. I mean, when I was a child back in the late '50s, I decided I wanted a Bendix Automatic rear hub in my Roadmaster. Part of the job was converting to 1/2" pitch from 1" pitch, so I had to put a chain and front chain ring on it. When I saw the picture of that big cone with the two flats, it all came back. My dad had tools, including really big adjustable wrenches. I did that kind of stuff myself. Its been many years, but I think I had the bike shop build a new wheel for the Bendix. I can't get my head around anybody having this much trouble taking the chain ring off an 'ashtabula' crank.
Yeah, well as one poster provided, they are usually a three key design, which usually(as the pic shows) takes a bearing cup spanner, or a hammer and screwdriber.
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