Tube diameters for buying cable stops & clamps?
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Tube diameters for buying cable stops & clamps?
I've searched BF, Google, & Sheldon Brown's site for about a half-hour, now, but can't find the answer I'm seeking.
I have a Nishiki steel-tube frame. I need to buy some clamp-on cable stops & guides. I've loaned my calipers to a friend & can't measure the diameters directly. The bolt-on clamps come in various sizes.
So what is the OD of the top tube? Of the down tube?
Thanks - FH
I have a Nishiki steel-tube frame. I need to buy some clamp-on cable stops & guides. I've loaned my calipers to a friend & can't measure the diameters directly. The bolt-on clamps come in various sizes.
So what is the OD of the top tube? Of the down tube?
Thanks - FH
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I've searched BF, Google, & Sheldon Brown's site for about a half-hour, now, but can't find the answer I'm seeking.
I have a Nishiki steel-tube frame. I need to buy some clamp-on cable stops & guides. I've loaned my calipers to a friend & can't measure the diameters directly. The bolt-on clamps come in various sizes.
So what is the OD of the top tube? Of the down tube?
Thanks - FH
I have a Nishiki steel-tube frame. I need to buy some clamp-on cable stops & guides. I've loaned my calipers to a friend & can't measure the diameters directly. The bolt-on clamps come in various sizes.
So what is the OD of the top tube? Of the down tube?
Thanks - FH
Cut a thin strip of paper. Wrap around tube. Mark where it begins to overlap. Remove, roll out flat and measure with a ruler. Divide by Pi. Go shopping.
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A traditional, non-French, non-mountain bike road frame will have a 1" top tube and 1-1/8" down tube.
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If you have a big crescent wrench, clamp it around the tube that you want to measure. Measure the distance between the jaws.
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I'm 90+% confident JohnDThompson is right because he usually is. 90% isn't 100% and I've been stung on odds like that before. If it was my bike, I'd use dabac's method to measure.
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Nishiki steel frames conform to the traditional steel frame standards John posted earlier. 1" top tube, 1-1/8" down and seat tubes.
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Thank you kindly - Mr. John D. Thompson was correct - 1 and ⅛ inch diameter = 28.6 mm
#11
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Nobody Measures anything for them selves It seems .
1" 1.125" ,1,25" 1.5" unless the frame is French from a particular Era
then its 25.28 ,30 something ... just rounding off the equivalent Fractional size. to the nearest whole MM.
1" 1.125" ,1,25" 1.5" unless the frame is French from a particular Era
then its 25.28 ,30 something ... just rounding off the equivalent Fractional size. to the nearest whole MM.
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I'd love to hear the story of why a metric dominated industry follows imperial tubing sizes so closely, I have a feeling it's something along the lines of the campagnolo 10mmx26tpi axle threading- Stock availability after the war and new, 'superior' [fractional inch] allied machine tools.
Last edited by IthaDan; 02-13-15 at 12:36 PM.
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To piggyback on this- ever notice how prevalent 25.4mm, 28.6mm, 31.8mm and 34.9mm are for sizes? That's because the sizes translate to 1" 1.125", 1.25" and 1.375"
I'd love to hear the story of why a metric dominated industry follows imperial tubing sizes so closely, I have a feeling it's something along the lines of the campagnolo 10mmx26tpi axle threading- stock availability after the war.
I'd love to hear the story of why a metric dominated industry follows imperial tubing sizes so closely, I have a feeling it's something along the lines of the campagnolo 10mmx26tpi axle threading- stock availability after the war.
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The French Metric Breakaway was swallowed up by the Fractional tube Peloton and then they had to either Join the rest, so as to have an export Market , or quit.
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I guess both of those could possibly apply, but both are just guesses of course.
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Until fairly recently, people were reluctant to depart from standards because the cost of tooling to make multiple versions of things was too high. So lug makers in Italy produced to UK standards because they wanted to sell their products to folks who used Reynolds tubing (regardless of where). Then tube makers followed suit so they could sell to people using those lugs. Everyone was happy to play the follow the leader game, because life was easier that way, so things like FD clamps, bars, stems etc tended to follow imperial standards (even if described in metric terms).
As long as we're dealing with lugged steel frames, there will be resistance to depart from the established imperial standards, after all, who goes first? Welded frames would be easier to change to alternate dimensions, and as we know, that cat is out of the bag with carbon fiber, but it still crates issues for the likes of clamps and clamp-on accessories.
You car argue Metric System superiority, but in many cases, the benefits are minimal compared to the cost, confusion, and hardship a changeover would entail.
As an example, the first ISO standard for BBs was so-called Swiss standard 35x1 with right/left threading. This was intended to combine the R/L benefit of the British system with the politically correct metric thread. Naturally it made a world of sense especially because Switzerland was such a major producer of bicycles. Naturally the bike world totally disregarded that, and slowly migrated to the BSC standard. Eventually the ISO came around and recognized the BSC standard as the ISO standard.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Last edited by FBinNY; 02-13-15 at 06:41 PM.
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