BB shell sliding out
03-03-15, 02:50 PM
#1
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BB shell sliding out
I replaced the OEM plastic BB shell and bearings for a PF86/92 with a Wheels Manufacturing aluminum shell and ceramic bearings. All is well except the drive side of the new BB shell slides out by 1-2 mm after a hundred miles or so. I've re-pressed it according to recommended torque specs several times and applied some Park Tool SAC-2 compound but still no luck. The frame isn't cracked at the BB and the crank itself is also torqued according to spec. Is there some other trick to get the shell to stay put? Or do I just have a defective shell?
03-03-15, 05:28 PM
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The bearing cartridges sit inside a cylindrical aluminum tube-like shell which then slides into the frame on each side. My apologies if I'm not using the right terminology.
03-03-15, 06:02 PM
#5
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Have you checked with the business you bought it from or with Wheels mfg, either their tech support docs or their customer support email address? That would seem the most logical place to start.
03-03-15, 06:09 PM
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Emailed Wheels Mfg and no response. Just looking for tips or suggestions, not interested in paying shop fees for something I can do myself.
03-03-15, 08:04 PM
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Problem is the language/terminology barrier. Maybe post a photo. Looking at the BB, I suspect that you might mean that the right side bearing unit is moving out. If so, do you have the full complement of spacers in the spindle?
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
03-03-15, 09:47 PM
#8
Mechanic/Tourist
Well, that's about 1/4 an answer. How long ago did you email them, did you check with the seller for advice, did you refer to the manufacturers tech docs, and would you please tell us the exact model of BB you are dealing with? Thanks.
03-03-15, 09:57 PM
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I've attached a photo that shows what I'm talking about.
The bike is a 2012 Scott CR1 Elite with Rival cranks.
Here is a link to the exact BB:
Wheels Mfg BB86/92 Bottom Bracket w/Angular Contact Bearings for 24/22mm (SRAM/Truvativ) Cranks
I emailed them more than a week ago and the seller will be of no use. I've also re-read the installation guide that came with the set. Thanks for taking a look.
The bike is a 2012 Scott CR1 Elite with Rival cranks.
Here is a link to the exact BB:
Wheels Mfg BB86/92 Bottom Bracket w/Angular Contact Bearings for 24/22mm (SRAM/Truvativ) Cranks
I emailed them more than a week ago and the seller will be of no use. I've also re-read the installation guide that came with the set. Thanks for taking a look.
03-04-15, 03:14 AM
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All the BB designs where you can simply poke the axle through the bearings rely on there being a close fit between the inside face of the cranks and the inner race of the bearings. If not, either the axle will be free to shunt sideways or the pressed in cups can move out, if the press fit is a bit on the loose side.
No way to tell w/o very accurate measurements if it's the frame or the bearing unit that's off spec.
