Horizontal dropouts + chain tensioner = suspenders & belt?
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Horizontal dropouts + chain tensioner = suspenders & belt?
I will be installing an IGH on a vintage frame with horizontal dropouts. My existing cassette-hub wheel axle sits entirely at the back of the dropouts, which gives me room to run a 38mm tire. When switching to an IGH, I would like to retain my clearance for a 38mm tire. This means pulling the axle to the far back of the dropouts. This seems to indicate that I will have to run a chain tensioner, unless I am able to get lucky enough to achieve sufficient chain tension when the axle is pulled to the back of the dropouts. As a first-timer to setting up an IGH, I have been searching for information on the ideal chain tension, and have not done too well. What is the rule of thumb for measuring adequate chain tension?
Also, if I go a little slack on the tension, but have a bash guard outboard of the chainring and a drop-stopper inboard, and the Shimano cog on the hub with the dual chain guards, am I OK without a chain tensioner if the chain does not end up with the ideal minimum tension?
Forgive my ignorance on all-things-chain-tension, since I have been a derailleur man for all but my first few years of bicycle riding.
Also, if I go a little slack on the tension, but have a bash guard outboard of the chainring and a drop-stopper inboard, and the Shimano cog on the hub with the dual chain guards, am I OK without a chain tensioner if the chain does not end up with the ideal minimum tension?
Forgive my ignorance on all-things-chain-tension, since I have been a derailleur man for all but my first few years of bicycle riding.
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half link can adjust the chain length so as to Not use the axle all the way back in the dropout..
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Adequate chain tension is no tension (some slack) at the tightest point. You should always be able to move the chain about 1/4 to 1/2 inch up and down with finger and thumb. Excess tension will result in excess chain, and possibly cog, wear.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
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you might want to look into, if you haven't already, what a 1/2 link in either 3/32" or 1/8" width, depending on the chain you will be running, will do for you.
if you replace one link with a half link, and i understand your problem (not a given
), you may still be able to run the tire you want and get adequate tension.
here's a pic in case you are not familiar with them.
if you replace one link with a half link, and i understand your problem (not a given

here's a pic in case you are not familiar with them.
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