Infamous66

what is the best frame(s)? and what is the price?

bmichaelx

It depends what specific specs you need for it. If you have an american BB, 1 1/8th headtube, and 990 brakes, then I suggest a Kink Freebird(330$ about). Guessing from how you asked your question, I guess you're new to BMX, so you probably didn't understand what I said earlier.

First of, what bike do you have now? Haro? Huffy? Once we know that then we can find out if you need a new frame, and what kind to suggest.

zx108

i would say the freebird also.

BMXrider1255

freebird or S&M Black bike Or the L.A.F.

Darin

I would think that a Titanium frameset would have to be in this category.

bmxrdr88

no way. ti frames suck unless your under 90 lbs. my favorites frame right now would be the fbm *****in' camaro ss. its revamped and more bithcin' then ever. the fbm autopilot is pretty cool too.

bmxrdr88

or the new solid AA/.

Brian

I'm more than twice that, and would have no trouble with a titanium frame. Where are you getting your misinformation?


And Infamous, your question is as valid as asking "How long is a piece of string?". What defines best for you? Best price? Best value? Lightest? Strongest? You could help us out and let us know what kind of riding you're doing. Darin and Beerman will give you two different answers, both correct from their viewpoint.

Infamous66

right now i have a mosh(the year before they went out of business) im looking for a frame that is good for dirt, flatland, and a little bit of skate park i have no money limit and im gonna make a custom bike

Brian

Mosh isn't out of business, and if money is no object, the only thing to do is have a custom frame made for you.

Infamous66

well i was told they went out of business and i cant find their website
besides a customly fit frame

Darin

Before I "waste" tons of cash on a titanium frame set someday. be more specific. What exactly make them suck? Is it because they are light and stronger? Or is there another reason?

Darin

Frame material affects several characteristics of a bike. They are stiffness, weight, and strength. So it's important to get a proper mix of stiffness, weight, and strength that's is appropriate for your biking activities. Though most inexperienced riders won't really be able to tell a difference, with the exception of weight, until they've been riding for a while.

There are two major types of MTB racing - downhill and cross-country (XCR). Obviously, weight is not much of a factor for downhill racers where as weight is very, very important for cross-country racers. Other types of racing include dual slalom and trials.

There really is no "perfect" material though I think some might disagree with me. With that in mind, lets take a look at the different frame materials available...


Chro-Moly

Chro-moly is a fancy name for steel. Steel is heavy. But, steel is stiff. A frame made with chro-moly will usually have small tubes. To help reduce weight many steel frames have thin walled tubes. But remember, the thinner the tube walls are the less stiffness you'll have. If you're a heavy rider you'll want a thicker tube wall to support your weight. Reynolds 853 is usually considered the best type of steel for bike frames because it gains strength as it cools after the welding process. All steel has the same inherent stiffness.

Positives:
* Very Strong
* Stiff Ride
* Durable
* Cheap

Negatives:
* Heavy
* Prone To Rusting


Aluminum

Aluminum is one of the most common frame materials because it is light and fairly affordable. Aluminum provides the rider with a very stiff ride. Aluminum frames have large diameter tubes that help improve strength and stiffness. This material is often used for unique frame shapes.

Positives:
* Light
* Stiff
* Inexpensive
* Rust-Proof

Negatives:
* Less Strength Than Steel
* Can Break Under Heavy Use
* Difficult To Repair
* Thin Walled Tubes Dent Easy


Carbon Fiber

Carbon fiber frames are very strong and stiff. They are made by braiding fibers of carbon and affixing them with a very strong glue (epoxy). These kind of frames allow for unique frame shapes because they can be molded to the proper shape much easier than metal alloys. Carbon fiber can crack so watch out for that.

Positives:
* Great Strength
* Great Stiffness
* Very Light
* No Rust

Negatives:
* Expensive
* Prone To Breakage


Titanium

In my opinion, titanium is one of the best materials for any frame. It combines a great balance of lightness, strength, durability, and stiffness. The best alloys of titanium are as strong as the best alloys of steel frames. For a stiffer titanium frame look for larger tubes. Titanium frames usually come in two alloys:
- 3Al/2.5V alloy (3% aluminum / 2.5% vanadium)
- 6Al/4V (6% aluminum / 4% vanadium)

The 6Al/4V is stronger but more expensive.

Positives:
* Super Light
* Very Strong
* Rust Proof
* Great For Large Riders

Negatives:
* Very Expensive
* Somewhat Flexible (compared to steel)


Butt My Frame Sucka! - When looking at aluminum frames and some large diameter tubed steel and titanium frames you'll want to make sure that the tubes are butted. This increases strength and it's important.

What's Up With Flex? - Flex is when there is lateral movement in the frame. This most often happens with the tire but can also come from the seatpost. But there can also be flex in the frame itself. That is why stiffness is important. Be sure to ask about the flex characteristics of the bike you're looking at. Flex can steal power from your pedal stroke and, especially with full suspension bikes, is detrimental when riding uphill (crosscountry racing for example).

Ooh, It's So Stiff! - You sick-o I know what you were thinking! Stiffness refers to how much the frame itself absorbs vibrations and bumps in the surface you are riding on. Aluminum is notorious for offering a very unforgiving ride. Steel frames are known for being absorbant.

Who Designed This? - In addition to the frame material, what determines a lot as far as stiffness, flex, strength, and even weight is the design of the frame. I would recommend reading some reviews in MTB magazines. Also, since you're on Epinions check out some of the reviews. Frame design is very important.


Summary:

If you're doing cross-country (XCR) riding you'll want to get the lightest possible bike that has the least amount of flex. For downhill riders, focus on suspension travel, strength, and durability. Light frames and components are important for both, but even more so for XCR. I like aluminum a lot but I would love to be able to afford titanium! There are some nice carbon fiber bikes out there too!

My FSR Comp has an aluminum frame. My complaint about it is there's way too much flex in the rear swing arm for it to be a good XCR bike. The rear swing arm is the part attached to your rear tire, rear suspension, and bike frame.


Good Mountain Bike Companies:
* Specialized
* GT
* Trek
* Barracuda

And many more...


Final Say:

Be sure to research your purchase carefully!

Also, be sure you know what you and the bike will be doing, then focus on your price range. Obviously, try to get the best mix of quality components, suspension (if desired), and frame material. Other than that - have fun and enjoy your new ride!

Time to shred!

Found at: https://www.epinions.com/content_3704660100

Infamous66

im beginning to like the Fly Diablo frame heres the link: https://www.flybikesbmx.com/productos/diabloblackeng.htm

tell me what u guys think

Brian

Chro-moly is a fancy name for steel. Blah blah blah.

I'm so glad that's not your quote.

CF has no place in BMX, except for some race forks. Titanium falls between steel and aluminum in density, which means it's stronger than aluminum, but lighter than steel. To build a ti frame with the strength of steel, you'd lose the weight advantage. But for a race frame, ti is the way to go.

Infamous66

or maybe the pantera?

OneTinSloth

there are so many factors that go into choosing the right frame for you. what type of riding will you be doing? what sorts of tricks to you like to do? how much do you weigh? how tall are you?

nota lot of people realise this, but frame geometry plays a pretty important role in BMX. a bike with shorter chainstays, and an overall shorter wheelbase, works better for me for street. longer chainstays, and a slightly shorter top tube, with a slack head tube angle works better (for me) for dirt and skate park riding. i personally ride more street, so i have a bike with a steeper headtube angle, and shorter chainstays (or at least more tire clearance toward the seat tube so i can slam my wheel all the way forward in the dropouts) than my old T-1. there are also factors for other components as well, such as handlebars. height, width, backsweep, and upsweep all play a role in how the bike handles your input.

examine yourself and your riding style, and through that, your perfect frame will reveal itself to you.

Infamous66

im 140 lbs.
im about 5'7''
im 13 and still growing
i will be doing dirt jumps, flatland, and a little bit of park
i cant do many trix...im still learning

queensrider86

sorry buddy, but the majority of people here don't race.

Brian

That doesn't mean he can't ask. Did you get a new pimp yet, or are you still a free agent?

BMXrider1255

queensrider86

i'm out of the game at the moment.

Brian

You'll be back on that government cheese if you don't work. Hey, where you ride, you can get a Snapple and a pretzel anytime, right?

Infamous66

ummmm...back on the topic plz

queensrider86

ummmmmmm....you asked a stupid question