FMF bmx frames
 

i found this FMF bmx frame that's suprisingly cheap compared to other frames. It's full chromo and under 100 bucks!

http://www.ediscountbike.com/Product...spx?id=4674906

what do you guys think?

FMF BMX has gone out of business so the stuff that is still out there is pretty cheap. The frame itself is not bad if you are looking for a race frame.

race frame

race frame made of chromo?
aren't race frames supposed to be aluminum?

they make race frames out of chromoly too. FMF doesnt make anything but.

but chromo is still chromo, right? like 12 hours ago, i just bought an FMF full chromo fork on ebay for 27 bucks, it was pretty cheap, can this fork be used for tricks?
cant this frame be used for tricks too?

It can, but its wont hold out nearly as well. and don't even try grinding.

why cant you grind on it? what will happen

you will destroy the chain stays and the drop outs. especially if you are just learning to grind or havent been grinding long. You have to remember it is a RACE frame made for racing... not freestyle riding or grinding. Its not made to take the hits and abuse that a freestyle bike is made to handle, it's made to be light and fast on a smooth dirt track with flowing doubles and tables, not big dirt gaps, quarter pipes, or grinding rails and ledges.

Just think of it like street, dirt, etc as something solid and when it comes to race it would have the same material but it would be hollow.

FMF had three types of race frames not just chromoly. They had chromoly, aluminum and an aluminum lug/carbon fiber tube.
Their forks were either chromoly or carbon fiber. Their chromoly forks were heavy for a race fork and would put up with a fair bit of abuse. What differentiates a race fork from a lot of freestyle forks is there are no brake mounts and the only option is a 3/8 axle. There are some very light race forks but this is not one of them.

Chromoly race frames are no more hollow than any other chromoly frame, they are all made out of tubes, a bike made out of anything but would be too heavy to ride. That said, a race frame may be double or triple butted chromoly where a freestyle frame may not be butted at all (straight guage). Butting refers to a tube where the wall thickness varies, the tube will usually be thicker at the ends where it is being welded and then thin in the middle for weight savings. These tubes are as strong as straight guage when they are undamaged but I would think that they would dent a lot easier.

There is no reason you cannot use a race frame for other styles of riding. BMX racing is not all done on flowing tracks with tables and doubles. At the higher levels much of the race is in the air and these frames/forks stand up to a lot of failed attempts at clearing pro sections, which are essentially huge dirt gaps. The comment about grinding is accurate, the chainstays and dropouts are not as beefy as on other style frames and the rear dropout would normally not accommodate pegs.
You may find the frame geometry odd for doing tricks on, a lot of race frames do not allow you to move the wheel up as far as you may want to, this will make the front end harder to lift. In addition, they will often not accommodate a very large rear tire without rubbing.

damn, but that frame is so tempting...

Having a large rear tire is not really an issue, since there really is no advantages to that, and the people running them are just trend *****s... You can use the frame for other styles of riding, but like i said, dont expect it to last. its not made to take the hits and abuse that street, trail, or skate park riding have. Yeultis maybe the frame can stand up to mple cases on race track doubles, but 90% of the time these "doubles" you are able to roll over, and the knuckle on the landing is not nearly as hard to case as casing a quarter pipe coping on the way back in or a real dirt double, more like casing a wall...

i wont be using this bike for any half or quarter pipes, that should be fine, right?

The reference to larger tires is relative, the rear tire on many race bikes is a 1.5.

As for casing in a skate park or dirt jump being more damaging to a frame, that is only true of doubles and tables at the track as you can keep rolling after the impact. When the juniors, elites or pros come up short in the pro sections they are essentially hitting a wall of compacted dirt. Force = Mass * Velocity so unless you have the same velocity as a pro rider while casing at the skate park the force of your impact is less than theirs. They are on race frames and the frames usually live through the experience while wheels and forks often don't.

Regardless, no one but you can decide if the frame will be fine for your riding style, your height, your weight, etc..

There is no question or doubt that casing a concrete quarter pipe, or a huge dirt double at the trails is going to put more force on the frame then casing at the race track. Race track jumps are made so you can case and continue without destroying your bike or losing all your speed in an instant... there really is no argument about that, it is indeed fact. You have to remember when the pro class riders case on the track, even if the jump is a true double style gap casing is usually rare, and when it does happen most of these riders know how to absorb the impact and help minimize the force on the bike, if you are a beginner it is likely that you'll be slamming the full weight of your body plus all your momentum onto the rear end of the bike. A race bike may take these hits a handfull of times, but if you are learning on this bike and doing it time after time dont expect this frame to stay straight and hold up as well as a frame made for this kind of abuse, because im sorry to say race bikes aren't made for this. If you are just using this bike to cruise around, bunnyhop some curbs, take it to the local track, flow through a mild set of trails, or make some carvs on the ramps at the skatepark then yes it will be fine. If you plan to go big on this bike, then buy a bike that is made for going big and taking some hits.