Lovenutz

Hi all,

I've been looking for a true road bike and found this. I'll be checking this bike out tomorrow morning and was wondering if there is anything I should be looking for? I don't know much of anything about cannonade or aluminum frames. It looks really nice. Any opinions about the bike? the seller posted the brochure for the year. Looks like it was the entry racing bike. pretty cool. Finally what should I offer the guy? I was thinking 150 or less.

bargainguy

I believe the original brake levers would have been non-aero. That's some strange routing of the brake housing out of the right aero brake lever - you can see it in the pic. It really should be routed under the bar tape, but I'm thinking the owner left the original foam on the handlebars and couldn't be bothered to route it underneath. A simpler solution would be to pull the foam off, run some new bar tape and then route the housing under the bar tape. I'm assuming this is the same situation on both sides but can't see what's going on with the left brake housing.

You're right, these are entry level racing bikes with a pretty tight rear triangle. Do you like this kind of setup?

I also see what looks like SunTour black barend shifters. I'd test the drivetrain carefully to see how it shifts and whether any part of the drivetrain needs to be replaced.

These can fetch up to $300 (depending on your local market) fully refurb'd, so $150 would be a good price if not in that condition, depending on what needs work.

Kevindale

Per the catalogue, this did actually come with aero brakes. One thing to realize about these Cannondales is that it was the same frame up and down the line, so the 'entry level' racer (SR300) had the same frame the top of the line road racer (SR2000). I personally dig the cantilevered rear dropouts. One difference between this bike and the higher level road bikes was, instead of the lighter aluminum fork, the SR300 came with a Tange Mangaloy fork (I think arguably a better riding fork, since less harsh, though heavier). Originally it would have come with Suntour Blaze components, with downtube shifters, according to the catalogue. There are very well made frames, with beautiful welds, but look carefully for any significant dents or signs of cracking. Make sure the stem and seat post aren't seized. As noted above, make sure everything works. Even if it's clean, you'll probably need to check and lube all the bearing surfaces. It looks lightly used, but 27 year old grease isn't going to still be doing much. If you like bar end shifters, and these work well, than that's a bonus. I've never used bar ends, so don't know if the ones on this bike are anything special. I can't imagine it would be difficult to switch back to downtube shifters if you wanted to. I think $150 would be a very good deal on this. Go luck with the buy.

Lovenutz

The seller says he's the original owner and that he hardly ever rode the thing. I would normally think "how convenient," but it does look to be in really nice shape. I would prefer down tube shifters actually, but that would not be tough to convert if I find out I don't like the bar end shifting. My main concern is how an aluminum frame would hold up after 27 years. Where should I look for cracks?

Kevindale

My wife has a 1992 SR2000, which is the slightly later 2.8 frame (the one you're looking at is the 3.0 frame). Hers was used by an amateur racer before she owned it, and it's seen some miles. Her frame appears as solid now as the day it was made. These are very robust frames, and hers feels more robust than my CAAD 10. However, since it's fairly thin walled alloy, it can be dented, and when crashed they an develop cracks at the joints. Just look to see if all the tubes look true, see if it tracks straight when you ride it, and check all the junctions between the tubes. If this is as clean as it looks, with few scratches, it would be pretty easy I think to see any frame issues. If you see something that's questionable, take a few close up photos and post them here.

Dave Cutter

Look everywhere! These are great old bikes... but they were prone to crack... not with age but often when new. Exam all joins look for hair-line cracks in the paint. And enjoy! These are great old bikes.

Price? If your planning on flipping it... $150 would be the high offer. But if you can appreciate a beautiful old Cannondale.... you'll be enjoying it long after you forget exactly how much you paid. I wouldn't worry so much about nickels and dimes as nicks, dents, and paint condition.

oddjob2

As a rider, I'd pay up to 90 percent of seller's asking price.

Lovenutz

Went and checked it out. Had flat tires so I couldn't ride it. Offered 180 but the seller wouldn't take less than 200 (even though his ad said 200 obo) so I had to pass.

Kevindale

Did you confirm that the seatpost and stem move freely? When I go to check out CL bikes I always bring some Allen keys and a pump. I think one time I took a patch kit in case the tubes had a puncture.

I think this is a fairly new listing. Wait a few days and if it's still listed, call again.

Dave Cutter

Bummer. Some times these things don't work out. But.... you prefer down tube shifters anyway. And whereas the number of these old bikes are limited... they aren't THAT limited... yet. Keep looking and you'll find that old bike you desire.

And then.... you'll find another....