Schwinn Circuit, info, worth it?
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Schwinn Circuit, info, worth it?
I recently picked up a Schwinn Circuit road bike, complete in great shape for $100.00, I paid another $120.00 for a set of continental Duraskin tires and a basic tune up. I know the bike is old but I'd call it close to mint, with nary a scratch, original tape, Sante gears, clips, Concor white seat,Columbus Tretubi tubing decal , even brake pads original, and it rides absolutely wonderful, light as a feather. I'm just wondering, did I pay too much?, I can't find any info on the bike on the web, other than listings for a new one. A friend told me it was, could've got a newer one for less, I don't know, it does ride real nice, Thanks
#2
Dropped
Tell your friend to go find you a newer, higher quality bike for $220, and not call you until s/he does.
It was a steal! Nice find.
It was a steal! Nice find.
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That's a really nice find - I've been looking for a Circuit in my size around here, but no dice yet. I love the Concor Profil saddle yours has.
#4
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Yes! The Circuit was second only to the Paramount in Schwinn's 1988 model line-up. You did well.
1988 Circuit catalog page
1988 Specifications
1988 Circuit catalog page
1988 Specifications
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You did very well.
(No reason to think the braking isn't adequate, but you could optimize it by going non-original with some up-to-date cables, housing, and or kool stop pads, should you so choose.)
(No reason to think the braking isn't adequate, but you could optimize it by going non-original with some up-to-date cables, housing, and or kool stop pads, should you so choose.)
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Stan, you would maybe know the answer to this. Some of those Sante components have a reputation for being non-interchangeable. How much of an issue would you say that is with a bike like this? Should I ever be tempted by a Sante-equipped bike, I'd like to know what spares I should keep an eye out for.
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Your friend does not know squat about bikes. You got a very competent performing bicycle that is a huge step above entry level. Its going to serve you well.
You got a very reasonable price.
You got a very reasonable price.
#8
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You did quite well. The Sante groupo was a designer "boutique" groupo that fell in between Dura-Ace and Ultegra. I bought a circuit a thrift store and stripped it down because it was too small and used the parts to build up a vintage trek 510. You can still find parts for sante on ebay and some old bike shops still have stuff in stock. The only thing you have to worry about replacing is the rear cassette. I want to say it is the old uniglide cassette that are hard to find. You could also change out the the hub body to accept the more modern hyperglide cassette. You can see my trek at https://vintage-trek.com/images/trek/...Liam7_1140.jpg. The only thing I have changed is I bought the bar end shifter pods from Rivendell and moved the downtube shifters to the bar ends. Sheldon Brown talks about the cassette issue here https://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#uniglide
#9
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Stan, you would maybe know the answer to this. Some of those Sante components have a reputation for being non-interchangeable. How much of an issue would you say that is with a bike like this? Should I ever be tempted by a Sante-equipped bike, I'd like to know what spares I should keep an eye out for.
Do you mean that some Santé components have a reputation as being incompatible with components from other Shimano groups (Dura-Ace, Ultegra, 105, etc.)?
Maybe someone else knows. All I've ever heard about the Santé group has been very positive.
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Stan, you would maybe know the answer to this. Some of those Sante components have a reputation for being non-interchangeable. How much of an issue would you say that is with a bike like this? Should I ever be tempted by a Sante-equipped bike, I'd like to know what spares I should keep an eye out for.
I wouldnt hesittate to buy a Sante equipte bike. If you disregard it as being a 'boutique' group and look at it from a finctionality perspective you'll find that Sante is a top notch group that works very well.
#11
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Yeah, you did VERY well, and your friend either wanted it for himself, or knows squat about bikes. I'm jealous, hehe. You probably couldn't find another Circuit for $220 if you tried for a couple of years? Well, maybe a basket case? Keep an eye out around the bottom bracket joints. for some reason the Schwinn Columbus frames tend to start rusting there. Not sure why, but almost every one I've found has it.,,,,BD
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#12
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As far as a new bike for less than that... you'd be getting a GMC Denali or one of those LOW end Schwinn's that are sold at your local X-mart. If you're friend thinks he can get a better deal on one of those, tell him to buy one and go race you.
See who gets smoked.
-Gene-
See who gets smoked.
-Gene-
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Wow, I'd agree with everyone, don't worry I'm keeping the Circuit indoors, apparently the person I bought it from, his father also kept it indoors, I like the old ways, down tube shifting, toe clips, all the basics, my friend says the technology is old, and steel isn't the way to go nowadays, I told him who cares if it rides so nice, mitch
#14
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Wow, I'd agree with everyone, don't worry I'm keeping the Circuit indoors, apparently the person I bought it from, his father also kept it indoors, I like the old ways, down tube shifting, toe clips, all the basics, my friend says the technology is old, and steel isn't the way to go nowadays, I told him who cares if it rides so nice, mitch
Don't believe it! Your new Circuit is still one helluva fine bicycle and will run circles around any new bike you could buy for less than $1,500. Also, don't forget you can upgrade it to 10-speed cassettes and brifters any time.
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#17
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Top score! The Circuit was a nice bike. Shimano Sante stuff is great. Functionally excellent, durable and somewhat original and cool in its aesthetics; I have a partial set on my Davidson and love it. Also, to reply to an above post, Sante is totally compatible with other Shimano, so no problems will arise in that department.
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Stan,
Thanks for posting links to this Cracked Carbon blog. I took the time to look through the entire blog. Quite a few interesting pictures which have thoroughly convinced me to stick with steel.
BTW, there was a posting last week in 50+ from a BFer returning to cycling after some extended time off the bike. He has a mid '80s Schwinn Prelude, which he had tuned and was back riding, and enjoying.
https://www.bikeforums.net/fifty-plus-50/503120-please-tell-me-i-m-not-crazy.html
But curiosity was nibbling away at his old school joys. He had been to the LBS and was swooning during the sales pitch; "carbon will make you faster." I tried my best to bring him over here to C&V. Even dangled a picture of "Sporty" in front of him. No response. And all those 50 plusers who were flush with mucho cash kept chanting; "carbon, carbon, carbon" (place a "drink the Kool Aid" smilie here).
Sheesh, it was like those Levitra, Cialis, and Blue Pill commercials on television. No balance! The poor guy didn't stand a chance.
Thanks for posting links to this Cracked Carbon blog. I took the time to look through the entire blog. Quite a few interesting pictures which have thoroughly convinced me to stick with steel.
BTW, there was a posting last week in 50+ from a BFer returning to cycling after some extended time off the bike. He has a mid '80s Schwinn Prelude, which he had tuned and was back riding, and enjoying.
https://www.bikeforums.net/fifty-plus-50/503120-please-tell-me-i-m-not-crazy.html
But curiosity was nibbling away at his old school joys. He had been to the LBS and was swooning during the sales pitch; "carbon will make you faster." I tried my best to bring him over here to C&V. Even dangled a picture of "Sporty" in front of him. No response. And all those 50 plusers who were flush with mucho cash kept chanting; "carbon, carbon, carbon" (place a "drink the Kool Aid" smilie here).
Sheesh, it was like those Levitra, Cialis, and Blue Pill commercials on television. No balance! The poor guy didn't stand a chance.
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#19
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Bob, in June of last year I e-mailed Mark Rhomberg at Bike Testing, Inc. asking if he knew of any studies comparing the failure rates for bicycle frames of different materials. I indicated that I was aware it is a very complex subject and that any definitive analysis would be subject to many variables, but that I was interested in any industry-wide statistics of frame failures resulting in injuries to riders.
Mark replied that he couldn't imagine anyone touching the subject with a ten foot pole except, perhaps, the Consumer Product Safety Commission. Mark said his personal feeling is that any material is fine, and that it's the up-front engineering which seems to make the biggest difference.
I contacted the CPSC with the same question, but received no reply.
Carbon fiber is a wonderful material with exceptional strength-to-weight ratios, but the failure mode where CF structures simply splinter apart with no warning is very scary to me. At most, a structurally sound CF frame that is built well enough to have durability characteristics similar to a well built steel frame might save a pound in the overall weight of a bike over a similar size modern steel frame, but even assuming the failure rates of CF and steel frames are similar, the anecdotal evidence suggests that the risk of personal injury inherent in the spontaneous failure mode of CF frames and components (handlebars, forks, and seat posts) is greater than it is for other materials (steel, aluminum, titanium) with failure modes that give more warning of impending failure.
Ultimately, the decision to ride a CF bike is up to the rider and his/her own risk/benefit analysis and comfort level with the nature of the material. Like you, I'm sticking with steel.
Mark replied that he couldn't imagine anyone touching the subject with a ten foot pole except, perhaps, the Consumer Product Safety Commission. Mark said his personal feeling is that any material is fine, and that it's the up-front engineering which seems to make the biggest difference.
I contacted the CPSC with the same question, but received no reply.
Carbon fiber is a wonderful material with exceptional strength-to-weight ratios, but the failure mode where CF structures simply splinter apart with no warning is very scary to me. At most, a structurally sound CF frame that is built well enough to have durability characteristics similar to a well built steel frame might save a pound in the overall weight of a bike over a similar size modern steel frame, but even assuming the failure rates of CF and steel frames are similar, the anecdotal evidence suggests that the risk of personal injury inherent in the spontaneous failure mode of CF frames and components (handlebars, forks, and seat posts) is greater than it is for other materials (steel, aluminum, titanium) with failure modes that give more warning of impending failure.
Ultimately, the decision to ride a CF bike is up to the rider and his/her own risk/benefit analysis and comfort level with the nature of the material. Like you, I'm sticking with steel.
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Carbon fiber is a wonderful material with exceptional strength-to-weight ratios, but the failure mode where CF structures simply splinter apart with no warning is very scary to me. At most, a structurally sound CF frame that is built well enough to have durability characteristics similar to a well built steel frame might save a pound in the overall weight of a bike over a similar size modern steel frame, but even assuming the failure rates of CF and steel frames are similar, the anecdotal evidence suggests that the risk of personal injury inherent in the spontaneous failure mode of CF frames and components (handlebars, forks, and seat posts) is greater than it is for other materials (steel, aluminum, titanium) with failure modes that give more warning of impending failure.
Ultimately, the decision to ride a CF bike is up to the rider and his/her own risk/benefit analysis and comfort level with the nature of the material. Like you, I'm sticking with steel.
Ultimately, the decision to ride a CF bike is up to the rider and his/her own risk/benefit analysis and comfort level with the nature of the material. Like you, I'm sticking with steel.
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Hello,
I bought a bicycle quite a few years back. Here is the story the Seller told me.
It suppose to be a Schwinn and was a 1989 model. He said once he got the bike,
the paint started to peel off. He had it professionally repainted by a Auto Body shop using
some super durable DuPont Inron paint.
They use to use this high quality paint for aircraft and boats at one time, but the vapors were deadly. I don't think
they spray with it anymore. The paint is a British Racing Green metallic. Literally, it looks like
those special bowling balls that have that rich metallic look. He put the Schwinn Metal logo back,
but never put on any labels or decals again. It weighs about 23.5 lbs. Here is what he put on:
Wolber TX Rims
Sante' Crankset & Brake Set (They look like a Mother of Pearl finish)
Columbus Foderi Lamaniti Chrome fork
The frame says it’s a Cro-Moly and a magnet will stick to the frame so it isn't aluminum.
I add on a Dura-Ace Titanium Seat post with a Lemond Seat
I believe it might be a 1989 Schwinn Circuit due to the components on it.
I carefully today looked for the Serial Number. I found it on the bottom of the frame
where the crank goes thru. It looks like serial number 3902195.
I saw your description on your Schwinn Circuit. What did your Serial Number show??
It's a nice looking bike and is lightweight enough for me, but I just would like to look further
into it's history, if at all possible. Even if you point me into another direction would be appreciated.
Thank you.
I bought a bicycle quite a few years back. Here is the story the Seller told me.
It suppose to be a Schwinn and was a 1989 model. He said once he got the bike,
the paint started to peel off. He had it professionally repainted by a Auto Body shop using
some super durable DuPont Inron paint.
They use to use this high quality paint for aircraft and boats at one time, but the vapors were deadly. I don't think
they spray with it anymore. The paint is a British Racing Green metallic. Literally, it looks like
those special bowling balls that have that rich metallic look. He put the Schwinn Metal logo back,
but never put on any labels or decals again. It weighs about 23.5 lbs. Here is what he put on:
Wolber TX Rims
Sante' Crankset & Brake Set (They look like a Mother of Pearl finish)
Columbus Foderi Lamaniti Chrome fork
The frame says it’s a Cro-Moly and a magnet will stick to the frame so it isn't aluminum.
I add on a Dura-Ace Titanium Seat post with a Lemond Seat
I believe it might be a 1989 Schwinn Circuit due to the components on it.
I carefully today looked for the Serial Number. I found it on the bottom of the frame
where the crank goes thru. It looks like serial number 3902195.
I saw your description on your Schwinn Circuit. What did your Serial Number show??
It's a nice looking bike and is lightweight enough for me, but I just would like to look further
into it's history, if at all possible. Even if you point me into another direction would be appreciated.
Thank you.
#22
Decrepit Member
jrscpu, welcome to Bike Forums; to get more interest, it probably would have been better to start a new thread about your bike rather than tag onto a six year old zombie.
The best way for us to try and figure out what you have is to post some good photos of it, including a picture of the whole bike taken of the drive side, and closeups of the lugs, dropouts, seat cluster, components, serial number, etc. When you say there's a Schwinn metal logo on the bike, do you mean the head badge is there? If so, there should be four small numbers stamped into it (the head badge) that represent the assembly date of the bike in the format dddy (ddd=day of the year 001-366, y=last digit of the year).
The best way for us to try and figure out what you have is to post some good photos of it, including a picture of the whole bike taken of the drive side, and closeups of the lugs, dropouts, seat cluster, components, serial number, etc. When you say there's a Schwinn metal logo on the bike, do you mean the head badge is there? If so, there should be four small numbers stamped into it (the head badge) that represent the assembly date of the bike in the format dddy (ddd=day of the year 001-366, y=last digit of the year).
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Hi I am new to this forim. I have a circut like the one in the pictures. Black and chrome. Would like to sell. It is all origanil except for the tires and tubes. Needs new tires and tubes. Also needs a good cleaning. been hanging in the garage for at leatst 20 years. Need to clean out the garage. Let me know if any body is interested. Boyd
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Hi I am new to this forim. I have a circut like the one in the pictures. Black and chrome. Would like to sell. It is all origanil except for the tires and tubes. Needs new tires and tubes. Also needs a good cleaning. been hanging in the garage for at leatst 20 years. Need to clean out the garage. Let me know if any body is interested. Boyd
Very informative.