Centurion, probably Lemans 10, is it worth $100?
#1
Jack of all trades
Thread Starter
Centurion, probably Lemans 10, is it worth $100?
here's a bike in my neighborhood, looks like the left brake is shot, is it really worth $100?
https://spokane.craigslist.org/bik/2761442855.html
I've tried to contact the seller, should hear from them soon...
https://spokane.craigslist.org/bik/2761442855.html
I've tried to contact the seller, should hear from them soon...
#2
Constant tinkerer
Based on what I can see, no. "Safety" brake levers and stem shifters indicate a low end bike. Based on the lack of information I can only assume it needs a complete overhaul (bearings, cables, etc.) plus whatever is broken. I'd look elsewhere, maybe buy it if you can get it for $50 and it has no serious issues.
Edit: when looking at used bikes on craigslist, I always assume the worst but hope for the best. Unless this bike was less than a 10 minute drive from my house I would not bother at that price. Too little info in the ad for me to waste my time going any further than that.
Edit: when looking at used bikes on craigslist, I always assume the worst but hope for the best. Unless this bike was less than a 10 minute drive from my house I would not bother at that price. Too little info in the ad for me to waste my time going any further than that.
Last edited by FastJake; 12-19-11 at 11:18 PM.
#3
Jack of all trades
Thread Starter
Based on what I can see, no. "Safety" brake levers and stem shifters indicate a low end bike. Based on the lack of information I can only assume it needs a complete overhaul (bearings, cables, etc.) plus whatever is broken. I'd look elsewhere, maybe buy it if you can get it for $50 and it has no serious issues.
#4
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Can't tell from those pictures. A lot of bikes back then came with turkey levers and stem shifters. Many of them were not very good, others were pretty decent. Aluminum wheels are a plus. Better pics from the drive side plus some info on the tubing would be very helpful. A lot of the low end stuff back then came with steel rims. Of course, the wheels could have been an upgrade. Who knows.
Example, mid 1970s Nishiki International came with turkey levers and stem shifters. Yet it was a pretty decent bike. Nice Suntour Vx RD, alloy rims, cromoly frame, alloy stem, seat post and handlebars. But even an International, in that condition, would not be worth $100.
Seller is asking for best offer, and wants to sell quick. Bike obviously needs some TLC. Could be worth an offer. Paint looks good, which is always a plus.
Example, mid 1970s Nishiki International came with turkey levers and stem shifters. Yet it was a pretty decent bike. Nice Suntour Vx RD, alloy rims, cromoly frame, alloy stem, seat post and handlebars. But even an International, in that condition, would not be worth $100.
Seller is asking for best offer, and wants to sell quick. Bike obviously needs some TLC. Could be worth an offer. Paint looks good, which is always a plus.
Last edited by wrk101; 12-19-11 at 11:04 PM.
#5
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Starting at $50 sounds good. Are you looking for basic transportation, or a bike to build up for fun fast riding, or...? Are you handy and can you take on a project?
That Centurion badge indicates a late 70s bike. Which doesn't mean it's bad, but the same model bike from the mid 80s, say, would have been lighter and had better components. From what little can be seen, at least, condition looks okay. Are wheels really alloy (aluminum)? That is easy to tell, the rims will be shiny if they are chromed steel, and will make the bike noticeably heavy. Alloy rims = a good start. Check them for round by spinning them while holding the bike up, judged against the brake pads. You don't expect perfection, and in fact quite a bit can be 'trued,' but it's a bargaining point. Way out of round, or broken spokes should be a HUGE discount...though you can likely pick up a usable wheel cheaply enough at a co-op if there's one in your area. Look for dents, look for things that aren't straight on the bike. Spot rust is usually not a big deal though it can be ugly. If you can loosen the seatpost binder bolt, make sure the seatpost slides up and down in its tube. It should be tight, but not stuck. Brakes should obviously stop the bike, but if not it may just be a matter of adjustment or new pads. Derailleurs are often off adjustment and can easily be fixed if they're not shifting right. (Okay, sometimes that 'easy fix' takes a good bit of fiddling for us amateurs.)
It could be that this bike is in great shape, but even so it's an oldie and very few of these bikes have had regular maintenance, so it is almost certain to need some work. If you can do that yourself that's one thing, if you would have to take it to a shop, that's another. For sure, the bike is not something you're going to kick yourself over if you pass on it.
Most important question about this or any bike you're looking at though is...does it fit you?
That Centurion badge indicates a late 70s bike. Which doesn't mean it's bad, but the same model bike from the mid 80s, say, would have been lighter and had better components. From what little can be seen, at least, condition looks okay. Are wheels really alloy (aluminum)? That is easy to tell, the rims will be shiny if they are chromed steel, and will make the bike noticeably heavy. Alloy rims = a good start. Check them for round by spinning them while holding the bike up, judged against the brake pads. You don't expect perfection, and in fact quite a bit can be 'trued,' but it's a bargaining point. Way out of round, or broken spokes should be a HUGE discount...though you can likely pick up a usable wheel cheaply enough at a co-op if there's one in your area. Look for dents, look for things that aren't straight on the bike. Spot rust is usually not a big deal though it can be ugly. If you can loosen the seatpost binder bolt, make sure the seatpost slides up and down in its tube. It should be tight, but not stuck. Brakes should obviously stop the bike, but if not it may just be a matter of adjustment or new pads. Derailleurs are often off adjustment and can easily be fixed if they're not shifting right. (Okay, sometimes that 'easy fix' takes a good bit of fiddling for us amateurs.)
It could be that this bike is in great shape, but even so it's an oldie and very few of these bikes have had regular maintenance, so it is almost certain to need some work. If you can do that yourself that's one thing, if you would have to take it to a shop, that's another. For sure, the bike is not something you're going to kick yourself over if you pass on it.
Most important question about this or any bike you're looking at though is...does it fit you?
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Last edited by Chicago Al; 12-19-11 at 11:06 PM.
#6
Jack of all trades
Thread Starter
It might just turn out to be a flip. I can do just about all the work, including cottered cranks. It appears to be my size, hopefully around 60cm, so it can be my all around town bike. If it's super heavy, it will be either parted out or fixed up for sale in summer. I'll post any pictures I can if it becomes mine.
Thanks all for the feedback, will use it most definitely.
Thanks all for the feedback, will use it most definitely.
#7
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Flipping the Centurion will not be very profitable if you pay $50 just to purchase the bike, in my opinion, but that is only my opinion and determining Vintage Bicycle Value is a tricky business, as best.
You might want to consider the bicycle's Quality when thinking about purchase. Bicycle Quality is a big issue when it comes to vintage road bicycles, and, though I mean no offense, the Le Mans is close to entry level quality, at best.
You might want to consider the bicycle's Quality when thinking about purchase. Bicycle Quality is a big issue when it comes to vintage road bicycles, and, though I mean no offense, the Le Mans is close to entry level quality, at best.
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#8
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Those are not the best angles for pictures! I can tell very little excpet that it needs work. The big question is how? That will require a visit.
Given the head badge, it should be a mid to late 1970s model. The stem shifters indicate it is probaly an entry level model. I can tell if the cranks are cottered or cotterless, but they look thick enough that they may be cotterless. The rims could be dirty steel or aluminum. However, the front hub does appear to be aluminum and it does appear to have a skewer. The tires at least appear to be relatively new.
As for a the model, the LeMans is the obvious choice, however given the discernible features, could also be a Sport or Super LeMans. A Super LeManss would have a butted, hi-tensile frame.
I don't know the Spokane market, but I wouldn't think it would be hot, at least not at this time of year. Given that you can do the work and are considering a rider, it may be worth the price if there are only minor issues. If you do get the bicycle, I would appreciate if you get add pics and info to my Centurion Serial Number Database thread. The pre-1980 Centurion do not surface that often, especially with OEM components. The data could be valuable in decrypting the early serial number format.
Given the head badge, it should be a mid to late 1970s model. The stem shifters indicate it is probaly an entry level model. I can tell if the cranks are cottered or cotterless, but they look thick enough that they may be cotterless. The rims could be dirty steel or aluminum. However, the front hub does appear to be aluminum and it does appear to have a skewer. The tires at least appear to be relatively new.
As for a the model, the LeMans is the obvious choice, however given the discernible features, could also be a Sport or Super LeMans. A Super LeManss would have a butted, hi-tensile frame.
I don't know the Spokane market, but I wouldn't think it would be hot, at least not at this time of year. Given that you can do the work and are considering a rider, it may be worth the price if there are only minor issues. If you do get the bicycle, I would appreciate if you get add pics and info to my Centurion Serial Number Database thread. The pre-1980 Centurion do not surface that often, especially with OEM components. The data could be valuable in decrypting the early serial number format.
#9
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As a flip? Forget it. Even at $50, there is no margin in this bike.
#10
Jack of all trades
Thread Starter
Flipping the Centurion will not be very profitable if you pay $50 just to purchase the bike, in my opinion, but that is only my opinion and determining Vintage Bicycle Value is a tricky business, as best.
You might want to consider the bicycle's Quality when thinking about purchase. Bicycle Quality is a big issue when it comes to vintage road bicycles, and, though I mean no offense, the Le Mans is close to entry level quality, at best.
You might want to consider the bicycle's Quality when thinking about purchase. Bicycle Quality is a big issue when it comes to vintage road bicycles, and, though I mean no offense, the Le Mans is close to entry level quality, at best.
#11
Jack of all trades
Thread Starter
Those are not the best angles for pictures! I can tell very little excpet that it needs work. The big question is how? That will require a visit.
Given the head badge, it should be a mid to late 1970s model. The stem shifters indicate it is probaly an entry level model. I can tell if the cranks are cottered or cotterless, but they look thick enough that they may be cotterless. The rims could be dirty steel or aluminum. However, the front hub does appear to be aluminum and it does appear to have a skewer. The tires at least appear to be relatively new.
As for a the model, the LeMans is the obvious choice, however given the discernible features, could also be a Sport or Super LeMans. A Super LeManss would have a butted, hi-tensile frame.
I don't know the Spokane market, but I wouldn't think it would be hot, at least not at this time of year. Given that you can do the work and are considering a rider, it may be worth the price if there are only minor issues. If you do get the bicycle, I would appreciate if you get add pics and info to my Centurion Serial Number Database thread. The pre-1980 Centurion do not surface that often, especially with OEM components. The data could be valuable in decrypting the early serial number format.
Given the head badge, it should be a mid to late 1970s model. The stem shifters indicate it is probaly an entry level model. I can tell if the cranks are cottered or cotterless, but they look thick enough that they may be cotterless. The rims could be dirty steel or aluminum. However, the front hub does appear to be aluminum and it does appear to have a skewer. The tires at least appear to be relatively new.
As for a the model, the LeMans is the obvious choice, however given the discernible features, could also be a Sport or Super LeMans. A Super LeManss would have a butted, hi-tensile frame.
I don't know the Spokane market, but I wouldn't think it would be hot, at least not at this time of year. Given that you can do the work and are considering a rider, it may be worth the price if there are only minor issues. If you do get the bicycle, I would appreciate if you get add pics and info to my Centurion Serial Number Database thread. The pre-1980 Centurion do not surface that often, especially with OEM components. The data could be valuable in decrypting the early serial number format.
#12
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#13
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I actually got that model bike up free last winter. It took 2 weeks on Craig's List just to find someone (me) to haul it off. I cleaned it up and upgraded it and gave it to a friend. Poor shifters and a claw rear derailleur were a couple of drawbacks. Mine had a cheap steel crank, but not cottered.
#14
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I actually got that model bike up free last winter. It took 2 weeks on Craig's List just to find someone (me) to haul it off. I cleaned it up and upgraded it and gave it to a friend. Poor shifters and a claw rear derailleur were a couple of drawbacks. Mine had a cheap steel crank, but not cottered.
OP even as pretty as yours is, good luck unloading it. If it's your size they do make pretty sweet rides if your not going for performance high end.
#15
Thrifty Bill
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Not really. Some low end bikes, even if obtained for free, just don't bring enough rehabbed to cover parts, consumables, and time. Include in the "time" estimate the time spent finding the bike, and the time spent marketing it. Better to aim higher: cromoly frame, alloy rims, down tube shifters, etc. It takes just as much time and money to rehab a bottom end bike as it does to rehab a mid-grade bike. The trick is finding a neglected mid-grade bike at an attractive (cheap) price.
#16
Jack of all trades
Thread Starter
Not really. Some low end bikes, even if obtained for free, just don't bring enough rehabbed to cover parts, consumables, and time. Include in the "time" estimate the time spent finding the bike, and the time spent marketing it. Better to aim higher: cromoly frame, alloy rims, down tube shifters, etc. It takes just as much time and money to rehab a bottom end bike as it does to rehab a mid-grade bike. The trick is finding a neglected mid-grade bike at an attractive (cheap) price.
#17
Constant tinkerer
Surely there must be some people in your area willing to put down $100-$200 for a used road bike. How big is your town? Even in lowly Platteville where I go to school (population 10,000) I have managed to break the $300 barrier a few times selling used bikes.
#18
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Some of my rationale goes like this: people that are not good with money sometimes waste it on nice toys, meanwhile, the rich folks just get the basic bike that meets their needs. Kind of like where I used to live in PA. You would see fancy 4x4 pickup trucks sitting in front of a row house (we are not talking Philly). People literally spent more on their truck than their home.
#19
Jack of all trades
Thread Starter
You know, this town is a bit of a mid-sized (200,000) dump. One new resident told my chiropractor that she'd never seen a town with such a high percentage of the population being low class losers (PWT). She's from Houston, I think. That should tell you a lot about my local customer base.
#20
Jack of all trades
Thread Starter
BTW, I got back in touch with the Centurion guy, he lives about an hour away, and, I just picked up another low-end fixer anyway. This thread could probably just die now...
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Not really. Some low end bikes, even if obtained for free, just don't bring enough rehabbed to cover parts, consumables, and time. Include in the "time" estimate the time spent finding the bike, and the time spent marketing it. Better to aim higher: cromoly frame, alloy rims, down tube shifters, etc. It takes just as much time and money to rehab a bottom end bike as it does to rehab a mid-grade bike. The trick is finding a neglected mid-grade bike at an attractive (cheap) price.
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