Raleigh bottom bracket query
12-24-11, 12:31 AM
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Raleigh bottom bracket query
Hello all. I'm in the process of refurbishing the bottom bracket of an older Raleigh and I was wondering if the bearing cap on the drive side is clockwise to remove like most other cycles with a left hand thread. The non-drive side came out quite easily but the drive side is firmly in place! Any help much appreciated. And Happy Holidays to all - be safe peeps.
12-24-11, 12:52 AM
#2
Constant tinkerer
Fixed cups can be quite difficult to remove. Why are you taking it out anyway? The only reason is if you're replacing the whole BB with something else.
The fixed cup is left-hand threaded https://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html#bottom
The fixed cup is left-hand threaded https://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html#bottom
12-24-11, 02:08 AM
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+1 on don't take it out. It's called the fixed cup for a reason.
And if you are thinking replacement, older Raleigh BB's are
different in both threading and width from most everything else.
thus not easily replaced.
And if you are thinking replacement, older Raleigh BB's are
different in both threading and width from most everything else.
thus not easily replaced.
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12-24-11, 07:11 AM
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I have found Raleigh bottom bracket fixed cups really hard to remove. If you can get away with cleaning it carefully, and then inspect it to ensure that it is not pitted, then leave it in place. If it is pitted and hard to undo, have a look at how I get stubborn fixed cups out.
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12-24-11, 07:21 AM
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12-26-11, 05:25 AM
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Many thanks for all your replies. The reason for changing the BB completely FJ is we like to replace old school cotter-pin axles with modern square ended axle/BB sets using sealed units. I'm gonna try the big bolt and washer combo thanks rj.
12-26-11, 07:47 PM
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This is a cut and paste from another thread with a similar
issue............
There appears to be some confusion between this and
the Sheldon Brown method of fixed cup removal (which this is
not the same as).
Lately, I've also used a longer bolt that goes all the way through
and out the other side of the BB, with another large washer
on that side of the BB and a nut to hold the contraption
and the fixed cup wrench on the BB. Works as well or
better, and does not require the socket extension and
ratchet, since you are tightening the nut outside the BB.
Just leave enough play on the bolt in this case to allow
your fixed cup to turn about 1/4 turn in the BB when you
first hit the wrench, then loosen it a little more as needed
for complete removal.
Your cups are either Raleigh proprietary or ISO/English.
This should make your replacement job considerably harder
or easier in terms of parts availability. The fixed cup
is a left hand thread (i.e. it loosens clockwise). Again,
please make certain you have the stuff to install the
replacement cartridge of your dreams in a Raleigh threaded
BB before you go at this, because trying to kludge some
thing in there that is wrongly threaded will be a mistake.
You should be OK on width if you use one of those universal
fit 68-71mm units.
Phil Wood sells Raleigh threaded installation rings, and
Velo Orange used to .....not sure if they still do so.
If there really is an ongoing moisture problem,
I would probably opt for replacement with a sealed
cartridge BB unit at this point. You just need to get the
right axle length and protrusion to maintain your chainline.
"I just did one of these (Campagnolo fixed cup removal) from
a 1978 frame that had been installed with some sort of thread
sealing compound and been in place for 32 years.
You need to refer to:
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ed+cup+removal
and read far enough into it so that you get to
the ingenious idea of using a short 1/2" or 5/8"
hex bolt and nut with washers inside the cup and
outside the tool (large enough to hold it on the cup).
You can then proceed, as did I, to hit the end of the
goddam wrench in the appropriate direction with
a deadblow hammer (if you have one) or something
of a similar nature. This is kind of the poor man's
impact wrench.
Prior to doing any of this, degrease the cup area and
hit it from both sides with PB Blaster (as seen on TV)
and some triflow and let them soak in for 20 or 30
minutes. Patience and fortitude are called for in this
particular operation. For some reason I seem to have
both the Park and the Campagnolo tools for this fixed
cup. Must be indicative of advanced age or senility."
issue............
There appears to be some confusion between this and
the Sheldon Brown method of fixed cup removal (which this is
not the same as).
Lately, I've also used a longer bolt that goes all the way through
and out the other side of the BB, with another large washer
on that side of the BB and a nut to hold the contraption
and the fixed cup wrench on the BB. Works as well or
better, and does not require the socket extension and
ratchet, since you are tightening the nut outside the BB.
Just leave enough play on the bolt in this case to allow
your fixed cup to turn about 1/4 turn in the BB when you
first hit the wrench, then loosen it a little more as needed
for complete removal.
Your cups are either Raleigh proprietary or ISO/English.
This should make your replacement job considerably harder
or easier in terms of parts availability. The fixed cup
is a left hand thread (i.e. it loosens clockwise). Again,
please make certain you have the stuff to install the
replacement cartridge of your dreams in a Raleigh threaded
BB before you go at this, because trying to kludge some
thing in there that is wrongly threaded will be a mistake.
You should be OK on width if you use one of those universal
fit 68-71mm units.
Phil Wood sells Raleigh threaded installation rings, and
Velo Orange used to .....not sure if they still do so.
If there really is an ongoing moisture problem,
I would probably opt for replacement with a sealed
cartridge BB unit at this point. You just need to get the
right axle length and protrusion to maintain your chainline.
"I just did one of these (Campagnolo fixed cup removal) from
a 1978 frame that had been installed with some sort of thread
sealing compound and been in place for 32 years.
You need to refer to:
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ed+cup+removal
and read far enough into it so that you get to
the ingenious idea of using a short 1/2" or 5/8"
hex bolt and nut with washers inside the cup and
outside the tool (large enough to hold it on the cup).
You can then proceed, as did I, to hit the end of the
goddam wrench in the appropriate direction with
a deadblow hammer (if you have one) or something
of a similar nature. This is kind of the poor man's
impact wrench.
Prior to doing any of this, degrease the cup area and
hit it from both sides with PB Blaster (as seen on TV)
and some triflow and let them soak in for 20 or 30
minutes. Patience and fortitude are called for in this
particular operation. For some reason I seem to have
both the Park and the Campagnolo tools for this fixed
cup. Must be indicative of advanced age or senility."
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