Rodion R

Craigslist Raleigh Pro. There is a large dent on the top tube and some significant rusting on the fork crown. In all other respects the paint and chrome appears to be in good condition. Any idea how much these defects detract from its value?
Is filling with brass or brazing over a feasible fix for the dent?
Some pictures prior to clean up:

100_7954 by Mon Jaque, on Flickr

100_7959 by Mon Jaque, on Flickr

100_7960 by Mon Jaque, on Flickr

100_7963 by Mon Jaque, on Flickr

100_7964 by Mon Jaque, on Flickr

100_7971 by Mon Jaque, on Flickr

100_7976 by Mon Jaque, on Flickr

100_7977 by Mon Jaque, on Flickr

100_7981 by Mon Jaque, on Flickr

Post clean up:

100_7983 by Mon Jaque, on Flickr

wrk101

A dent that large is a value killer. Rust is as well. For resale, its either repair or part out (dent does not affect the value of the other parts of course). Numerous rust threads on the forum, probably over 1000 already.

On the dent, do a search on rolling it out. Just realize any repair is going to mean a repaint as well. As far as filling it, be sure what ever you use is compatible with your paint (Powder coat doesn't work over some fillers for example). So if you are going to do any filling, I would line up your painter first, and get his advice.

zukahn1 

Also looking at the bike while it may appear to be original it seems to have several component changes and is not original which may detract some from value. It is in no way a bad bike or even a bad deal most of the issues seem to be cosmetic. The bike should be a fine rider if the user just wants C&V road bike to get from place to place. I would say value is $100-125. Just understand that this bike is just not real good flipping or restoration material.

Bikedued

The dent is a value killer, as are the transplanted Shimano parts? This bike should be all Campy except maybe the crank?,,,,BD

Rodion R

Thanks for the feedback. The only parts original to the bike are the headset and seatpost. What strikes me as odd about the dent is that it is very isolated. The top tube still looks straight and symmetrical in other areas. I don't know how someone could have hit it that hard without bending the tube. For now I don't plan to sell the bike so I guess I'll see how it rides.
One other question. I have another Raleigh Pro and both have the rapid-taper chainstays. When using two chainrings, the inner chainring rubs against the chainstay. Consequently I am only using a single chainring on each bike. Do I need a longer bb spindle? What did the original Raleigh Pros come with?

'74 Raleigh Pro BB by Mon Jaque, on Flickr

'74 Raleigh Pro BB by Mon Jaque, on Flickr

wrk101

Yes you need a longer spindle. Spindle length is all about the crankset, not so much about the bike. The bike just dictates the threading and width of the bb.

How much clearance do you have on the non-drive side (not shown in the pictures)? A lot of spindles were asymmetric, with the longer side meant to be on the drive side. So it is possible, if you have extra clearance on the non drive side, that someone installed the spindle backwards. Can't tell with these pictures.

The non drive side looks pretty close, so I am going to discount that theory....

Frankenbike with rust and damaged frame = part out to maximize value. As a keeper, mixed components doesn't matter.

Rodion R

OK, thanks for the help. I'll see if I can find a longer bb spindle.

Dovetube

If your lockring is gripping threads to spare, that is, if the adjustable cup is almost protruding, you could put a freewheel spacer on the fixed cup and have great Q-factor. I'm not sure of today's demand for freewheel spacers. Recalling this thread, when I see a dent like that, I wish a little hole could be drilled opposite by which to try hammering it out, except it would seem to be a stressriser. Not much bending force, and it's a little frame; could be worth more than $125.

Bikedued

Or one of those weld on stud dent pullers? Of course if the tubing wall is really thin, it might just burn a hole in the tubing.,,,,BD


https://www.eastwood.com/stud-welder-...ng-system.html

Rodion R

If I could braze, I would just fill it with brass and file it smooth. But then again, I don't have the equipment nor do I know how to braze. Is this sort of technique ever used? If so, does anyone know of someone in the SF bay area who could do it?

Ex Pres 

That's like making an old "lead sled" (cars repaired with lead prior to bondo). Just use bondo. It's easier and lighter. But I'd try rolling first, then bondo to finish.

FastJake

+1

I would use bondo instead. It is easier to work with and can be readily sanded to obtain an even surface. Plus if you screw up you just sand it down and try again.

Are you planning to repaint this thing? As others have said, given the poor condition of the frame and non-original (but high end) parts I would consider parting this one out.

Rodion R

OK, bondo sounds like a better idea. I'll try that and use some touch up paint afterwards. I'm not planning on a repainting it. The fork crown and dent are the only real defects I can find. No cracks or other dents just a couple of the usual small paint chips.

vert1

In my opinion, this Blue Mink Pro is one of the most beautiful bikes I've seen with its pristine paint/decals and near perfect chrome that's setoff by the silver/blue mix. Even the lug work is pretty exemplary with the thinned long points looking very refined.

jet sanchEz

I guess it is too late since it looks like you have already started to strip the paint but, if the top tube is as straight as you say it is, I wouldn't touch anything. Just re-grease everything and ride it.

juls

He has two, the other looks silver? I'd roll it and try to match the paint. Very handsome bike as vert1 said.

lostarchitect 

That dent is typical of a bike that was locked to something, and someone yanked on the bike or the lock, probably attempting to steal it.