Specialized Epic - What's it worth?
10-31-12, 08:25 AM
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Specialized Epic - What's it worth?
Hello all,
I'm a new rider and I'm thinking about purchasing a mid-90's Specialized Epic frame, with a missing seat and wheelsets. It's the black/red frame, the Epic Pro I believe, on Shimano 600 derailer & brakes. It's also got look clipless peddles and Shimano SG 53 front sprocket. I'd really appreciate any help with determining a fair price range for this bike frame, and also any idea of what kind of costs I'm looking at to replace the wheelset and seat. Is this even an appropriate bike for me? I'm a 5'10" 190lb male who's ridden hybrids in the past, but I'm looking to start training for my first tri and I wanted to purchase a road bike. Again, any help would be very much appreciated. Also, I've been trying to search for information about a rumored recall for these mid-90s bikes, does anyone have any solid information? Should I stay clear, or is this a good buy?
Thank you,
Henry
I'm a new rider and I'm thinking about purchasing a mid-90's Specialized Epic frame, with a missing seat and wheelsets. It's the black/red frame, the Epic Pro I believe, on Shimano 600 derailer & brakes. It's also got look clipless peddles and Shimano SG 53 front sprocket. I'd really appreciate any help with determining a fair price range for this bike frame, and also any idea of what kind of costs I'm looking at to replace the wheelset and seat. Is this even an appropriate bike for me? I'm a 5'10" 190lb male who's ridden hybrids in the past, but I'm looking to start training for my first tri and I wanted to purchase a road bike. Again, any help would be very much appreciated. Also, I've been trying to search for information about a rumored recall for these mid-90s bikes, does anyone have any solid information? Should I stay clear, or is this a good buy?
Thank you,
Henry
Last edited by sup0man; 10-31-12 at 08:29 AM.
10-31-12, 08:32 AM
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Stay clear....get a bike that you can test ride from the start.
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Fred "The Real Fred"
10-31-12, 08:47 AM
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Still learning
10-31-12, 08:58 AM
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I certainly agree if your starting out no sense in buying a project. You certainly want to be able to test ride it.
As to your basic question it would be worth $50 to me. There is not enough information in your post to know what year and model the bike is and since the wheels are missing one can only assume the condition is not all that great.
As to your basic question it would be worth $50 to me. There is not enough information in your post to know what year and model the bike is and since the wheels are missing one can only assume the condition is not all that great.
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
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10-31-12, 09:01 AM
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If the price is less than $100 and everything is in decent shape, buying it is no-brainer. You can flip the frame and parts to double or triple your money.
If it's more than $100, look at bikes you can test ride and do some reseach on bike fit.
If it's more than $100, look at bikes you can test ride and do some reseach on bike fit.
10-31-12, 09:13 AM
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Henry,
Welcome to BikeForums!
The most important factor is whether or not the frame fits you. Without wheels it would be very hard to determine. Don't compromise fit, especially with a road bike. If you can, take a set of wheels with you, stick them in the frame/fork, and straddle the frame. Shoot for about 1½" of clearance maximum between you & the top tube.
Good Luck!
Welcome to BikeForums!
The most important factor is whether or not the frame fits you. Without wheels it would be very hard to determine. Don't compromise fit, especially with a road bike. If you can, take a set of wheels with you, stick them in the frame/fork, and straddle the frame. Shoot for about 1½" of clearance maximum between you & the top tube.
Good Luck!
10-31-12, 11:14 AM
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Project bike is best suited for someone with the time/aptitude/pile of parts to do the work. The cost of replacing the missing parts, if you pay retail for them, will equal or even exceed the value of the completed bike. You would be much better off buying a complete bike.
Realize a bike without wheels is not just missing wheels, its missing tires, tubes, rim strips, rear cassette,QR levers, most likely the chain, etc. This stuff adds up. How resourceful are you?
On saddles, that's really a personal choice item. You can find them for $10, you can also find them for $150.
Realize a bike without wheels is not just missing wheels, its missing tires, tubes, rim strips, rear cassette,QR levers, most likely the chain, etc. This stuff adds up. How resourceful are you?
On saddles, that's really a personal choice item. You can find them for $10, you can also find them for $150.
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Please don't confuse ebay "asking" prices with "selling" prices. Many sellers never get their ask price. some are far from it. Value is determined once an item actually SELLS. Its easy enough to check SOLD prices.
Please don't confuse ebay "asking" prices with "selling" prices. Many sellers never get their ask price. some are far from it. Value is determined once an item actually SELLS. Its easy enough to check SOLD prices.
Last edited by wrk101; 10-31-12 at 11:17 AM.
10-31-12, 12:19 PM
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I'd only take on a project bike only if I have another, or other road ready bikes I can fall back on....... especially if one will be depending on it for competition. So I generally agree with the rest here.
But just as a project bike alone, The Epics could make for nice project bikes and sometimes quite a bargain, as the typical doom and gloom rumors about them and other earlier CF bikes continue (are mostly exaggerated, IMO), so they are usually priced quite a bit lower than top line steel bikes of the same era.
Specialized did admit that they had a few cases of their earlier version of the Epic discombobulate on the owners, but if this is the later/90's version of the Epic you are looking at with the non-polished aluminum lugs, they had supposedly improved the design of the bonding at the lugs on them (IIRC, they started using isolating materials between the CF tubes and AL lugs to avoid corrosive electro-galvanic reaction between the two different materials when moisture gets in between them) to mostly eliminate the possibility if lug/tube separation on them with "normal" use.
As with any bike though, It still would be best to try and find the best condition frameset, if you are building up any older CF bike to make sure that you are not trying to revive a bike that was abused or neglected by the PO.
JMOs
Chombi
But just as a project bike alone, The Epics could make for nice project bikes and sometimes quite a bargain, as the typical doom and gloom rumors about them and other earlier CF bikes continue (are mostly exaggerated, IMO), so they are usually priced quite a bit lower than top line steel bikes of the same era.
Specialized did admit that they had a few cases of their earlier version of the Epic discombobulate on the owners, but if this is the later/90's version of the Epic you are looking at with the non-polished aluminum lugs, they had supposedly improved the design of the bonding at the lugs on them (IIRC, they started using isolating materials between the CF tubes and AL lugs to avoid corrosive electro-galvanic reaction between the two different materials when moisture gets in between them) to mostly eliminate the possibility if lug/tube separation on them with "normal" use.
As with any bike though, It still would be best to try and find the best condition frameset, if you are building up any older CF bike to make sure that you are not trying to revive a bike that was abused or neglected by the PO.
JMOs
Chombi
10-31-12, 06:22 PM
#9
Constant tinkerer
+100
Buying an old lugged carbon bike complete without wheels is a huge red flag. Frameset only, ok. Without wheels just screams damage, damage that may not be apparent until you ride it.
I have lots of spare wheelsets, so if I was interested in this bike I'd bring one over and actually ride the thing. But for a noob, you're better off buying a complete bike.
Buying an old lugged carbon bike complete without wheels is a huge red flag. Frameset only, ok. Without wheels just screams damage, damage that may not be apparent until you ride it.
I have lots of spare wheelsets, so if I was interested in this bike I'd bring one over and actually ride the thing. But for a noob, you're better off buying a complete bike.
10-31-12, 06:32 PM
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I love the tricolor 600 stuff. I would steer clear for the 20 year old bonded carbon-ness.
Could be 126mm spacing too, which could make finding an appropriate rear wheel a chore.
Could be 126mm spacing too, which could make finding an appropriate rear wheel a chore.
11-05-12, 03:57 PM
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OP here, I decided to pass on this frame. As much as I wanted to jump on what had looked to me like a good idea, I'm going to concede to the collective wisdom. Incidentally, this forum community is amazing. Thank you for all who took time to help a bike noob keep his shirt.
Cheers!
Cheers!
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