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1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 speed Sturmey Archer 3x2

Old 07-18-15, 03:18 PM
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Flog00 
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1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 speed Sturmey Archer 3x2

Owner needs me to repair rear hub.
Also would like a valuation.

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Old 07-18-15, 03:36 PM
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In your area probably tough to achieve $175. Super clean, nice original rack, Brooks, easy $250-$275 in NYC.
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Old 07-18-15, 04:48 PM
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3x2 hub is nothing special?
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Old 07-18-15, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Flog00 View Post
3x2 hub is nothing special?
Yes it is special, an advancement on the original SA 3 speed and a piece of British engineering history. It is also a great riding hub.

But the problem is the vintage bike buying market does not know and of does not care about this. So the price is low.
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Old 07-18-15, 05:55 PM
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I don't know enough to comment on the 3 X 2. My opinion is that buyers for a Raleigh upright are not so concerned about rarity, as there are a boatload of them, but more about mechanical and cosmetic condition. I realize it is unique, but a pristine Sprite 10 speed is maybe $125 or valuable enough to steal from my backyard, lol.
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Old 07-20-15, 07:52 AM
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I wouldn't call it a 3x2 hub; just call it it a five speed hub, or an S5. They are really nice hubs, and I consider this a much more desirable bike than a Sprite with derailleurs, but I have to agree with the valuations above. I think it's worth $250-$300, but I don't know if you'll find a buyer at that price.
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Old 01-13-17, 01:43 AM
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My Put together S5 Raleigh

I have a 1963 Raleigh Sports that I added both an S5 rear hub and a Sturmey Archer Dual Shifter to it. I have many vintage Raleigh bikes in my stable and the bike pictured below is my favorite! I was lucky to find a junker Raleigh bike locally that had the S5 hub on it and I was fortunate to win an E-bay auction for the Sturmey Archer Dual Shifter. I changed the rear sprocket on my S5 to a 22 tooth sprocket, so it would take the hills in my neighborhood easier. I like to add options to my bikes and this bike has the following: Lucas Cyclometer, Brooks B66 black leather saddle with matching tool pouch, Prestube Minor rear rack, Ding-Dong Bell and Miller headlight. I spared no expense in building this bike. Whenever possible I used NOS parts. If I were to place a value on my bike, it would be close to $600 and it is not for sale! Yes, the shifting sequence is kind of confusing. That is why I created the Crib Sheet for the shifting pattern.
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Old 01-13-17, 08:48 AM
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I think most buyers of this type of bike would look at the shift crib sheet and be perplexed, not enthused.
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Old 01-13-17, 09:16 AM
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That's a very pretty bike and it looks to be in excellent condition and if you find an enthusiast interested in what is, essentially, a 5 speed Sports, you might be able to get a good price for it. I don't really know enough to put $$$ on it, but, if I were looking for something like that, I'd drop $200 to $250 on it easy.

As for complexity of shifting, have you guys looked at that fantastic 18 speed JC Higgins that was pictured in a recent old vs new thread?
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Old 01-13-17, 04:36 PM
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I just realized something about the Sprite I bought about 3 weeks ago. It has S/A dual down tube shifters (the right lever is broken) and a trigger shifter on the bars. I had assumed that the right down tube shifter was a dummy, and that it was originally set up that way.

After seeing the stick shifters on usarnie1's bike, I decided to try the right shifter (a small portion of the lever remains) and discovered that it is indexed. The lever looks as if it is not designed to be removable.

I would like to locate a replacement, but am I looking for a hen's tooth?
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Old 01-13-17, 04:43 PM
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You need a crib sheet to remember that the left shifter is just a gear-splitter? Wow-don't ever try to learn how to shift a semi, then........
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Old 01-13-17, 05:11 PM
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I actually don't understand usarnie1's shifting crib sheet, but if it works for him that's OK by me. I use lot of little cryptic charts and tables and drawings and notes myself. They are Greek to my friend with whom I have worked for many years. Obviously Alex is smarter than most of us.
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Old 01-13-17, 05:50 PM
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According to the Sturmey Archer literature, the left lever is used to select between the "super" gears and the three middle choices. The lever is pitched forward for "Super Low" and "Super High" and backward for the three middle gears. So, if you consider the three middle gears like your normal three speed, you put the left lever rearward and then you have three gears with the right lever (or thumb shifter or whatever three speed shifter you are using). If you want "Super Low," go to first gear on your three speed and shift the left shifter forward for the "Super" range. Likewise, to get into 5th gear, "Super High" go to third gear on the three speed shifter and pitch the left lever forward for the "Super" range. Middle three gears, left lever backwards.

I think that's the same as the crib sheet though third gear doesn't specify a position. Perhaps third gear -- 1 to 1 on the three speed end -- is the way it goes with the left lever in either position. That would mean that leaving the left lever in "Super" would give you a really wide range three speed.

Here's a link to the SA manual for one of the 5 speed hub variations which includes a chart explaining the shifting:https://hadland.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/s51.pdf

Credit where due--I got that link from some notes written up by the Bike Smith guy in Minnesota -- the same guy who makes the cotter press and sells custom made, high quality cotters special cut for Raleigh cottered cranks.
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Old 01-13-17, 08:30 PM
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In reply to dweenk's post; yes, the dual shifters are as scarce as hens teeth! However, I think your shifter may be repairable. Once you remove the shifters clamp mounting hardware, you will see a shaft that has had its back flared out, to secure the shaft to the mounting clamp while holding the shifting arm and indexing parts. I think you might be able to drill out only the flared out section of the shaft and free all the parts. Once the parts are loose, you can fabricate your own shifting arm and shaft. If you have a lathe, you can make another shaft and then thread the shaft on both of its' ends. That way you can secure your replacement shaft to the mounting clamp and snug up all the parts with a washer and a nut on the other end. In theory, is sounds good! Good Luck, Usarnie1 P.S. if you are going to part out your Sprite, I would be interested in purchasing the rear wheel with the left side bell shifter, its' rod, the broken dual shifter, the shifting cable hardware and the shifting cables.

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Old 01-14-17, 09:07 AM
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I remember as a kid, there was 'that one kid' in the neighborhood who had a Raleigh 'spyder-style' bike (banana seat, 20" wheels, wide one in the back, large shifter on the top tube, 'sissy bar', etc.) that had not one, but TWO shift knobs to emasculate yourself in an accident....
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Old 01-14-17, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by usarnie1 View Post
In reply to dweenk's post; yes, the dual shifters are as scarce as hens teeth! However, I think your shifter may be repairable. Once you remove the shifters clamp mounting hardware, you will see a shaft that has had its back flared out, to secure the shaft to the mounting clamp while holding the shifting arm and indexing parts. I think you might be able to drill out only the flared out section of the shaft and free all the parts. Once the parts are loose, you can fabricate your own shifting arm and shaft. If you have a lathe, you can make another shaft and then thread the shaft on both of its' ends. That way you can secure your replacement shaft to the mounting clamp and snug up all the parts with a washer and a nut on the other end. In theory, is sounds good! Good Luck, Usarnie1 P.S. if you are going to part out your Sprite, I would be interested in purchasing the rear wheel with the left side bell shifter, its' rod, the broken dual shifter, the shifting cable hardware and the shifting cables.
I have no plans to part this one out, but if it comes to that I'll keep you in mind.

When it warms up a bit, I will strip the bike and service the bearings and clean the frame. I have several stem and down tube friction shifters that I could rob for their levers, so I may explore using one of those as a replacement. I figure that I have nothing to lose by trying, since the lever is already broken (it appears to be made of Delrin).
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