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Help Identifying a Gardin

Old 06-13-17, 09:38 AM
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Gardin Rebuild Log

Rescued a bike over the weekend, but the bike is in horrible condition and the seat tube has lost its binding bolt and the original owner seemed to have shimmed it with some type of fabric paper. I'm having trouble getting the bottom bracket and seatpost off and the wheels and brakes did not come off easily too as everything was seized!

Tubing is Columbus SLX and I don't think the parts will help in identifying the bike, but here goes:

headset: Miche
Brakes: Shimano 105
Seat Tube: Miche
Brakes: Modolo Levers
Cranks: Mavic
Downtube Shifters: Shimano (and something that didn't fit on properly)
FD: Mavic
RD: Shimano Deore











Last edited by novalyx; 11-16-17 at 12:19 PM. Reason: Fixed crank and Modolo spelling
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Old 06-13-17, 10:05 AM
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Mavic crank, and I expect the bike originally had the complete SSC group on it. A nice bike but someone obviously let it go to hell. We all wish you'd gotten to it sooner.

Modolo, not "Mondolo."
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Old 06-13-17, 11:34 AM
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I can't tell you the model name but it should be circa 1988-1989 based on the decal style and the fact that my 1990+ literature doesn't show an SLX model, having move to Excell for the high end frames. This also fits the timeframe for the MAVIC components.
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Old 06-13-17, 12:43 PM
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Dang!, I have not seen a bike so neglected and beaten up!
I hope you can still save it. If it does have SLX tubing, t is a top of line frameset from Gardin with top of the line components. I just can't see why the bike ended up in such a messed up condition. Even UO8s uzually get much better treatment.
Good luck on the restoration and keep us posted on how it goes.
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Old 06-13-17, 01:27 PM
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Man, saved is right!
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Old 06-13-17, 01:37 PM
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I'd be really suprised if that frame was safely rideable. Too much rust/bubbling at lugs and joints. I really like my Gardin, hope yours is salvageable.
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Old 06-13-17, 01:56 PM
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Dunk that beauty in a vat of OA and try to save it. Once the rust is off, you should be able to poke and prod at it and see if it's really shot.
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Old 06-13-17, 03:36 PM
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It's been in an OA bath for two days so far with brass brush scubbing every 6-10 hours and everything doesn't look too bad. I want to try and retain the paint, but chances are, I might have to use paint stripper on it afterwards with all that bubbling.
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Old 06-14-17, 08:02 AM
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Poor bike.
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Old 06-14-17, 09:25 AM
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Looks like it had full Mavic SSC race group ounce a which would make it 86/87 pro model great find too bad on the condition.
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Old 06-14-17, 10:13 AM
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For some reason I am leaning towards the Team Issue model and the reason why is that it all seems to match up in terms of how the frame looks:



Of course mine isn't as pretty as Randy's, but from what I could see after the OA bath is that the dropouts did have some chrome on it, but the fork crown didn't seem to have any, or at least I can't tell until I strip it. I checked inside the fork steering tube and it doesn't seem to have any helical ridges, which makes me suspect that it isn't a SLX frame. Usually columbus frames would have campy dropouts? This bike has gipiemme dropouts in the back and I don't remember what they are in front. Will have to check again tonight.

@T-Mar: If the frame isn't SLX, would it help narrow down as to what it is? If so, what would you peg this frame as?

Last edited by novalyx; 06-14-17 at 02:17 PM.
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Old 06-14-17, 11:05 AM
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That is a pretty Team bike. "CampI" bikes don't automatically have Campagnolo dropouts. Biamchi used GipMe on alot of frames of all levels from the Campione de Italia to the Mondiale. Lots of companies made or had their own made.
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Old 06-18-17, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by novalyx View Post
...I checked inside the fork steering tube and it doesn't seem to have any helical ridges, which makes me suspect that it isn't a SLX frame. Usually columbus frames would have campy dropouts? This bike has gipiemme dropouts in the back and I don't remember what they are in front. Will have to check again tonight.

@T-Mar: If the frame isn't SLX, would it help narrow down as to what it is? If so, what would you peg this frame as?
Lots of Columbus frames used Gipiemme dropouts. Sometimes the helical ridges inside the fork can be hard to see, especially when things start corroding. Consequently, I'd remove the fork and check the outside of the steerer tube for the Columbus logo. Also, the presence of helical ridges inside the bottom of the forks' steerer tube is not indicative of SLX, only of a better grade Columbus tubeset. To tell for sure if it's SLX, you'd have to find the helical ridges inside the bottom bracket end of the seat tube, down tube and chain stays.
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Old 10-19-17, 11:24 AM
  #14  
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Sorry guys, been away a while. The bb is so stuck. Feels like someone used some adhesives in it cause it wouldn't budge at all. I took it to the LBS and it ended up destroying their tools on the drive side, so I got it back and I had to dremel through it and managed to get a hole big enough to get my finger in. The tubes all have rifling, so I would assume it would be an SLX frame.

I still need to get the hole bigger in the drive side so that I can use Sheldon's fixed cup tool and hopefully I can get that side off. Aside from that, I managed to free up frozen seatpost using a hacksaw (it was shimmed with some type of wool paper and also had layers of corrosion).

The bb was also really nasty and had a ton of dirt in it.
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Old 10-19-17, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Chombi1 View Post
I just can't see why the bike ended up in such a messed up condition. Even UO8s uzually get much better treatment.
...around here where I live, it usually turns out that the bike got stolen somewhere along the line. Not necessarily the current owner, but somewhere in the chain of ownership it became a lot cheaper to own, so deserving of less respect and care.

I have at least one Raleigh Pro that has this in the back story. It's painful to do the restoration, and I don't imagine I'll ever do another one. There are to many pretty good to excellent bikes in good condition right now, so pricing seems to be so low that if you put much into the restoration, you're immediately underwater.


It would need to be something pretty special to tempt me any more.

This one might be a good candidate for powdercoating, which you can get done here with a complete media blast of the exterior for like $130. If you oxalic acid bath the frame and fork before you take it to the powdercoater, and then treat the interior of the tubes with some sort of frame rust inhibitor after the powdercoating (it's a hot process, so anything you put inside won't make it through), you end up with reasonable results.

But as stated above, you need to do a thorough inspection prior to any investment in it, including poking at all the rust bubbles with an ice pick or some pointed instrument to see if there is any rusting through and through. High end tubes for bikes are drawn pretty thin, and it does not take much to rust all the way through in the thinner spots.
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Old 10-19-17, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by novalyx View Post
Sorry guys, been away a while. The bb is so stuck. Feels like someone used some adhesives in it cause it wouldn't budge at all.
...I usually mount Italian fixed cups using Loctite, because of the RH threading. but that would not apply to the adjustable cup. Try mixing up a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF, which is somewhat more effective than the best penetrating oil you can buy in a can. For something that stuck, the Sheldon tool probably won't work.

I posted some photos of a setup in the hints and tricks thread years ago, that works on almost anything.

Basically, you use a longer bolt, that goes all the way out past the BB shell, then using large fender washers on both sides, you use the washers to hold your fixed cup wrench on the cup, and washers and a nut on the other side to keep the bolt centered and tight enough to hold the wrench on the cup while you hit it with a dead blow hammer.

You need a real fixed cup wrench that is thin enough to sit on the cup....it's a specific tool. Won't work with a crescent adjustable, it will bounce off.
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Old 11-02-17, 06:00 PM
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Waiting for my fixed wrench tool to come in, but in the meanwhile, the drive side cup was so seized, I had no choice but to destroy it. Took forever and no damaged threads

All things that I had to destroy so far:


drive side BB cup


Finally, a clean B.B., now just waiting to get rid of fixed cup


When the fixed cup is gone, then i’ll finish sanding the rest. There is quite a bit of pitting from rust, but nothing got rusted through. Thank goodness!

Last edited by novalyx; 11-02-17 at 08:07 PM.
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Old 11-07-17, 04:42 PM
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Someone sent me a photo of a Gardin made out of Falck tubing. Has mostly Gipiemmi components, Modolo brakes and Fir tubular rims. Fork is chrome. Did Gardin commonly use Falck tubes?
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Old 11-07-17, 07:29 PM
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Keep the pictures coming, this will make an all time before and after project.
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Old 11-13-17, 07:49 AM
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So my fixed cup is also stuck stiff. I tried to do the method @3alarmer mentioned, but it's still frozen solid. I put some liquid wrench in it and I'll be buying some acetone and ATF fluid tonight. What's the best way to soak a bb because the downtube and chainstays kinda get in the way if I put it in a bin.
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Old 11-13-17, 09:23 AM
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You can just put a wine cork in the middle and set it on it's side. If all else fails you can just cut the cup on two sides carefully with a hack saw blade not pretty but it works.
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Old 11-13-17, 09:26 AM
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I just use a small loaf pan for baking. I can get a shell completely submerged with about 1 litre of fluid.
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Old 11-13-17, 12:11 PM
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Thanks T-mar, I'll grab one from the dollarstore tonight!
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Old 11-15-17, 07:58 PM
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Before trying the home brew I tried loosing it again and it managed to loosen up! Another small win today. The fixed cup is now out.

Here's the fixed cup removed:


Look at the gunk on that thing. The inside of the cup is also shot, so I'm just gonna do the RJ bike guy thing and make a cut with a dremel across the thread and use it as a cleaning tool:


The damage to the bb tool!


Does anyone know a good way to fix broken dropout screws? And what’s the best way to remove rust from the inside of the tubes?

Here’s the rusty inside tubes from the B.B.


As you can see, there is some barely visible rifling. It’s easier to feel than see:


Having trouble removing this dropout adjustment bolt. I tried using a thin Dremel and cutting along the middle to unscrew it but it ends up splitting open instead:

Anyone know how to easily get this thing out besides EDM?



Last edited by novalyx; 11-16-17 at 10:24 AM.
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