xiev

Would anyone be willing to assist in the ID of this no-model Trek I found on CL? The seller is asking $190 for it, and it's a 24" frame (c-t), but other than that, info is sparse. I have an email out to the seller in hopes of getting the serial, but haven't heard back yet, so I thought I'd pitch it to you guys as well.

I am just getting into vintage bikes and have learned a great deal about Schwinn's offerings through the years, but Trek has been off my radar, largely due to cost, so I've never really done my due diligence. Thanks in advance for any info, I really appreciate it.

bikemig 

The vintage Trek site has all the info you need. I don't know the model off the top of my head but it's a lower end Trek from the 80s given the Reynolds 501 frame (the sticker will tell you whether that's just the main triangle or the entire bike but likely just the main frame since there are no fork stickers) and the parts mix (suntour ARX derailleurs and dia compe 500g brakes).

The thing to keep in mind is that even a lower end Trek is actually a good quality bike. Trek back in the day did not really make a cheap bike. This bike looks to be in first rate cosmetic shape and no doubt will make a very good rider.

Bottom line $190 is fair given the condition but I'd offer $150 or so and see what happens. I've certainly sold this quality Trek on CL for more money than this.

Edit: looks to be a 1983 Trek 400 which came with a reynolds 501 main frame and manganese alloy fork and stays. This is a classic Trek sports touring frame and is good for general purpose riding.

https://www.vintage-trek.com/images/t...churePart1.pdf

Andy_K 

Ah, name that Trek! One of my favorite games.

I'd say it's a 1983 500. 1983 Trek Bicycle Brochure Part I - Racing Bikes

bikemig 

Agreed and it's a nicer bike than the 400. I read the wrong line from the brochure when I said a 400. The colors match the 500 as do the specs.

xiev

Thanks so much guys, and that site looks incredible. Given the fact that it's likely a 500 rather than 400, would you still say $150? Or would that be a bit low for what's on offer?

Andy_K 

I'd still try $150.

StarBiker

I would ignore a buyer that offered $150. Best of luck.

zukahn1

I would say it's worth the asking price. One thing to consider when buying negotiating price is that it has not so great 27" wheels/tires and these won't readily take 700's with the current brakes.

oddjob2

+1 on ID

Well worth the asking price, IMHO.

xiev

Man, thanks for all the feedback guys. I'm going to go take a test ride tomorrow with a wrench buddy of mine. If he thinks it looks high and tight, I'll probably just give the guy what he's asking for it.

It's a bummer to hear about the brake incompatibility with 700s, but I am not surprised to hear it. I would like to make the switch someday, but as long as the 27" tubes and tires are good to go, I'll probably just roll those for now until I'm ready to spring for upgrades.

So glad I found this community though, I never expected such an overwhelming response to my inquiry. Much appreciated!

bikemig 

The brakes quite likely will work with 700c; you're only talking about 4 mm. If not, you can (a) file a bit of the inside of the brake caliper off so that the brake will work or (b) buy a brake with a longer reach. Vintage caliper brakes can be found inexpensively.

ryansu

IMHO there is nothing wrong with 27" wheels and unless you want to run tires narrower than 25c or larger than 37c you have ready supply of tires available in 27". I am baffled by the desire to spend $$ on a different set of wheels, and possibly brakes, if the 27" stock wheels are in good shape, but hey I love a plush ride and the streets in my area of Seattle suck so jack hammering my way around the block on 700x23c is not my idea of fun ;-)

big chainring

Skip the pizza and beer this weekend, pay $190, enjoy a nice classic Wisconsin ride.

lostarchitect 

When the asking price is $190? That's just dumb. You should counter offer at least.

bargainguy

My policy as a seller is to give my best price up front, and this is quite clear in all my listings - I don't take offers or trades. I must be doing something right, because I sell a lot of bikes. You can't assume that what works for you will work for someone else, because we're all different. You have to find your own method, your own center.

When I first started selling, I'd consider offers, and then started running into all the games people play when they make crazy lowball offers just to see if you bite. I don't need to go there. You can only reach me through the CL auto responder, and since all my posts state "firm price, no offers or trades please," if you send me an offer or trade, I don't respond at all. Weeds out all those folks who aren't interested in my terms, which are stated upfront and quite clearly, so it's not like I'm hiding anything, in fact, quite the opposite. The auto responder is the best sales tool I've ever used.

StarBiker

Words to live by.
It's not dumb to make a low offer, and if I say the same things you say in your second paragraph it's not dumb for me to ignore a buyer. I also do not take phone calls. That quaint thing called email is fine.
I refuse to call people! That weeds out a lot of people that may be a problem also.

I hope he got the bike.

McBTC

Looks like the 80s and like Treks of the day that came with triples for touring. Seems like a larger frame than 24.

lostarchitect 

That's fine, since you're clear and up front about it. People otherwise should expect offers. I expect offers and bake a little wiggle room into the asking price. I do ignore lowballs or people who just seem like jackasses.

Andy_K 

I don't think I've ever had a Craigslist buyer offer me my asking price. A few have paid my asking price when I turned down their offers, but none have started with what I was asking. I guess if you're clear about it up front they might behave differently. I generally list bikes about $50 higher than what I think they're worth and then let the market tell me what the selling price ought to be. I just don't sell enough bikes to know a firm price from the outset.

xiaoman1 

I guess if it is stated up front as firm and people are willing to pay then it is worth it to them and all leave happy with the deal.
I get a bit upset when sellers set a firm price and do not disclose all the issues in a listing and when I arrive I hear oh it's just a little ding not a dent, its just a little wobble or I didn't know the seat was stuck etc....so games can go both ways...not saying anyone here does that but it happens.
I also feel better as a buyer after exchanging a few emails to have a contact number so I can speak with the seller and if necessary ask a few more questions before making a trip out to buy the bike.
I get a little comfort a least knowing there is a person with an honest bike behind the ad so I do not show up to an empty lot...If I can't get a contact number after leaving my information I move along.
Ben

UKFan4Sure

I'm the same way. I put a darned good price on everything I put on CL and ignore anyone who tries to talk me down. I will, however listen to someone who wants to trade. You wouldn't believe the stuff people are tired of and just want to be rid of.

bargainguy

I should give a little background to clarify how I address these points, because they are important to all buyers.

1. I don't sell a bike until I'm completely satisfied with cleaning it up, fixing it, replacing needed parts, taking good pix, writing good copy, and disclosing condition - both cosmetic and mechanical. The pix give you a good idea of what to expect. But since pix can't show everything, I include a text description of condition.

2. I always start with the bike on a repair stand. I say: "I like to start with the bike on a repair stand, so I can show you how it works, show you it works well, answer any questions you may have, then we can set the saddle at the right height for your leg length and you can take it for a test ride."

I go over shifting technique, demonstrate all the possible gear combos (with the exception of big chainring to big sprocket, I tell them that's a no-no and explain why), spin up the rear wheel to demonstrate wheel in good true and well adjusted hub, apply the rear brake to stop the rear wheel, spin the front wheel by hand to demonstrate good true/adjusted hub, and apply the front brake. This instills confidence on the buyer's part. No surprises during a test ride.

3. I also tell people up front that if I think a bike doesn't fit them, I don't want to sell it to them, because they'll never be comfortable riding it. "It's not my mission in life to sell you a bike, it's my mission to show you a bike that fits, works well for your needs, and is priced right. If I haven't done any of these, then I haven't done my job."

4. After setting the saddle for leg length, I say this: "I like to leave you alone at this point. Take as long as you want to test ride. I'll be inside if you need me or have more questions, but this is your decision now, not mine, and I like to give you (and whomever else is along) all the space you need without me hovering over your shoulder. Just ring the doorbell when you're done." Reverse-engineering the sales process as if I were a customer. I want someone available but not standing over me, tapping their foot or looking at their watch.

It's this combo of good service, attention to what the customer is saying, and a used bike that's in tip-top shape that results in sales for me. It is truly amazing how many folks have never been taught how to properly shift, and most folks who are not hardcore cyclists appreciate the instruction.

I often get offered tips, but I refuse them, saying: "The fact alone that you want to purchase my bike is satisfaction enough. If you come back and get another bike from me, or you refer someone to me, the next bike is $10 off. My way of saying thank you."

xiaoman1 

Your are one of the good ones
that is why I said "none " of us on BF's
Best, Ben

tmh657

bargainguy has some good info and I also do some of the same things, especially starting with the bike on a stand for demo purposes. The last bike I sold was a Bridgestone RB1 and the buyer came to look at it because he Googled it and it sounded awesome. He had never touched a down tube shifter. For a second I didn't want him to touch it much less take a test ride. He seemed like he could handle it so off he went and told me he could get used to the shifters so the deal was made.

I had priced it to sell so no haggling involved which reminds me the used bike market is REALLY soft right now where I live. I think I have all but given up searching for flip material FTTB.

xiev

I got the bike. For anyone who's interested, I paid the full $190. I brought the full amount with me to meet the guy, with every intention of offering him less based upon the condition of the bike when I'd had a chance to ride/inspect it.

What I found was a bike in just tip-top shape. Turns out the seller had gotten the bike in trade for some audio equipment from the owner of a local (and very respected) bike shop in town. Even had the handwritten receipt he'd gotten from the guy for the trade. I jumped on and was friction-shifting my way to joy in a matter of seconds. Combining that with the fact that it's definitely selling for less than the market in my area will bear (Madison-Milwaukee area seems they're listing for $250+) I felt no reason to lowball the guy and gave him the full $190.

I honestly couldn't be more pleased. It rides like a dream compared to my old Schwinn (and weighs nearly half as much, or so it seems). On top of that it's in incredible aesthetic shape for 34 years of age, I wish I could say the same for myself as we were born in the same year.

Starting to sound like a broken record, but I'll just say again that I really appreciate all the feedback and information you guys provided.