Mustache bars or bullhorns on '93 Trek 520
#1
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Mustache bars or bullhorns on '93 Trek 520
Got a smokin' deal on '93 Trek 520 yesterday and I'm already done with the drop bars.
So in keeping with the vintage of the bike and the hooded levers & bar end shifters, mustache bars or bullhorns seem to be the logical choices. I'm leaning toards the mustache bars since they offer more hand postions and moe upright riding postion with best access to the brake levers which would be on the "flats", also they give a bit of drop for riding into the wind. Personally I like the look of mustache bars as well.
On the other hand I could be cheap and cut/flip the existing Modolo E-2091's into makeshift bullhorns. Problem is being in a bit of a sretched postion to access the brake levers.
I ride in traffic a lot so quick access to brakes is a priority. Best option for the brake access issue could be bullhorns or even pusuit bars with added Cyclo-cross style in-line levers close to the stem on the flats. This would add more cost and get away from the vintage style of the bike.
Long term consideration is using this bike on 3 or 4 day supported tour next summer, for which I think the mustache bars might be better suited.
So in keeping with the vintage of the bike and the hooded levers & bar end shifters, mustache bars or bullhorns seem to be the logical choices. I'm leaning toards the mustache bars since they offer more hand postions and moe upright riding postion with best access to the brake levers which would be on the "flats", also they give a bit of drop for riding into the wind. Personally I like the look of mustache bars as well.
On the other hand I could be cheap and cut/flip the existing Modolo E-2091's into makeshift bullhorns. Problem is being in a bit of a sretched postion to access the brake levers.
I ride in traffic a lot so quick access to brakes is a priority. Best option for the brake access issue could be bullhorns or even pusuit bars with added Cyclo-cross style in-line levers close to the stem on the flats. This would add more cost and get away from the vintage style of the bike.
Long term consideration is using this bike on 3 or 4 day supported tour next summer, for which I think the mustache bars might be better suited.
#2
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I've done a few mustache bar conversions. What I've learned is to use a taller stem with less extension, to bring the bars closer to your torso. A Nitto Technomic is ideal, and I used one in the first example below.
I love the way mustache bars look, but I'm not so happy with hand positions, because they tend to put your hands at weird angles. You can't really use undermount brake levers because they will be at a weird angle no matter where you put them - and that's a safety issue - so you're left with very few viable positions to mount them. I find the best position is slightly outside the bend at the top.
As far as what's best for you, if you don't like drop bars, I think bullhorn bars would be a better option. But you could always try some mustache bars and see if the hand positions work better for you than they do for me.
I love the way mustache bars look, but I'm not so happy with hand positions, because they tend to put your hands at weird angles. You can't really use undermount brake levers because they will be at a weird angle no matter where you put them - and that's a safety issue - so you're left with very few viable positions to mount them. I find the best position is slightly outside the bend at the top.
As far as what's best for you, if you don't like drop bars, I think bullhorn bars would be a better option. But you could always try some mustache bars and see if the hand positions work better for you than they do for me.
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If you must change them I would say go with a medium size mustache bar allowing you to keep the nice bar end setup. Even nice Bullhorns would seem to really go against the lines of this bike and nice bar ends, while a flip and chop would just suck on this bike.
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I have tried mustache bars...

and bullhorns...

I hated the mustache and loved the bullhorns. The bullhorns allowed me a slightly more upright sitting position, which I feel offered me better opportunity to see in traffic.

and bullhorns...

I hated the mustache and loved the bullhorns. The bullhorns allowed me a slightly more upright sitting position, which I feel offered me better opportunity to see in traffic.
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#5
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This is what I had in mind, but with black bar tape.
#6
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I hated the mustache and loved the bullhorns. The bullhorns allowed me a slightly more upright sitting position, which I feel offered me better opportunity to see in traffic.[/QUOTE]
That's what concerns me. I use some type of bar end on all my other bike, so the bullhorn would be an easy transition. Just not sure about the shifters sticking up like a TT bike, although this setup with the brake levers reversed looks ergonomic and would have shifting and braking from the same hand postion.
That's what concerns me. I use some type of bar end on all my other bike, so the bullhorn would be an easy transition. Just not sure about the shifters sticking up like a TT bike, although this setup with the brake levers reversed looks ergonomic and would have shifting and braking from the same hand postion.
Last edited by GTryder; 07-16-17 at 04:08 PM. Reason: picture didn't upload
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Thanks for the suggestions and sharing photos of your bikes. Drops may not be completely off the table for this bike, but not the ones on it. I remembered seeing some shallow flared drops on a custom build Salsa in a close by city - "Salsa Woodchippers" . There are others available that almost morph a randonneur bar with a mustache.
Other parts will be needed to get the "fit" right on this bike as well - longer seat post (26.8, which I don't have an spares laing around) and a proper taller longer stem along with a longer front brake cable. The seat post is the surprise and it took a measuring tape to discover why - higher bottom bracket than any of my other bikes including a Fatty!
I measured top and down tubes at the shop (middle of the range of my existing bikes) and stand over height was just right. I realized from the get go that the head tube on this bike is very short and knew I wanted to replace the quill adapter and short threadless stem with something else. The seat tube was raised for the test ride and again slightly for the ride home. Upon inspection and cleaning, I noticed I was amost an inch over the minimum marking on it and need to go another 3/8 to half an inch to allow for my somewhat smaller and most comfortable road saddle!
Other parts will be needed to get the "fit" right on this bike as well - longer seat post (26.8, which I don't have an spares laing around) and a proper taller longer stem along with a longer front brake cable. The seat post is the surprise and it took a measuring tape to discover why - higher bottom bracket than any of my other bikes including a Fatty!
I measured top and down tubes at the shop (middle of the range of my existing bikes) and stand over height was just right. I realized from the get go that the head tube on this bike is very short and knew I wanted to replace the quill adapter and short threadless stem with something else. The seat tube was raised for the test ride and again slightly for the ride home. Upon inspection and cleaning, I noticed I was amost an inch over the minimum marking on it and need to go another 3/8 to half an inch to allow for my somewhat smaller and most comfortable road saddle!
Last edited by GTryder; 07-17-17 at 02:24 PM. Reason: typo
#8
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Some possibilites to stay with drops: Velo Orange Far Bar, Soma Portola, On One Midge, Origin8 Gary and an adjustable silver quill stem with removable fron plate.
Last edited by GTryder; 07-17-17 at 03:00 PM. Reason: typo
#9
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I just loosen, and shift the drop bars back a couple inches. It might irritate the C&V crowd but it works for me. And it's cheap!
It's funny, people don't like it, but it looks similar to many modern drop bar set ups.
It's funny, people don't like it, but it looks similar to many modern drop bar set ups.