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1971 Raleigh Super Course

Old 10-23-17, 06:39 PM
  #1  
newblue
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1971 Raleigh Super Course

Hello,

I have this 1971 Raleigh Super Course, which I bought this weekend from the original owner for $75. I could use your knowledge and help on some things, if you have the time.
My intention when buying was to clean it/fix it up as necessary and sell it, but itís so cool that itís tempting to keep. Iím undecided on that point.
Iíve given it some cleaning and polishing. It has a SunTour front derailleur on, but I also have the original Huret one. The only thing I see so far that is concerning is this big bare patch under the front derailleur where the paint has been peeled off, showing bare metal. Sorry about the indoor pics, btw. It's getting dark earlier here. I can try to update with some outdoor pics later on.

Value:
What do you think a fair price for me to put on it might be, if I do decide to sell it? Is it possible to sell bikes and get a decent response in the fall/winter, or should I hold it until the spring, do you think?

I donít see the usual Carlton decal; there is a decal sort of in that spot but itís broken up, as you can see, and hard to read. Do you think the bike is Carlton or non-Carlton, and how does that affect quality and value?

Other things you might have thoughts on:
Do you think I need to replace the tires and/or tubes? Or can they be ridden as is? I donít how old these are, just that they were replaced at some point in the bikeís life. Can I ride on 10- or 20-year-old tubes? I want to ride the Super Course in a tweed ride this weekend if possible, and if I can keep these tires on and use them, that would be nice.

Do I need a certain crank puller for this Stronglight crank and if so what is it?
Right now I have a cotter pin press and just a standard crank puller from Park Tools that has worked on a few Japanese cranks.

Do you know where I can find the serial number on it?

Thanks for your help!
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Old 10-24-17, 12:51 AM
  #2  
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No crank puller needed. You are miles ahead with a cotter pin press.

If the tires are supple and not cracked, probably will be okay to use.

Worksop build.

Brook’s saddle, rust free cables, with a full overhaul of bearings, low $200’s.

Last edited by oddjob2; 10-24-17 at 07:30 AM.
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Old 10-24-17, 06:14 AM
  #3  
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Thank you, Oddjob.

I also took some better pictures.
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Old 10-24-17, 06:53 AM
  #4  
jet sanchEz
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This is a great find for $75, I'd suggest adding some nice chrome fenders from Velo Orange and ride it all over the place. If it doesn't float your boat, sell it for $200 in the spring (but take off the fenders).
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Old 10-26-17, 08:31 AM
  #5  
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Nice bike. Looks like the tires are on backwards, judging by the direction of the angled grooves.
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Old 10-26-17, 09:10 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by newblue View Post
Hello,

I donít see the usual Carlton decal; there is a decal sort of in that spot but itís broken up, as you can see, and hard to read. Do you think the bike is Carlton or non-Carlton, and how does that affect quality and value?
That broken-up decal is definitely a Carlton, Worksop decal. Here's a page from Velocals, showing a replacement set with your downtube Carlton decal in it.


Raleigh International Bicycle Decal Set - VeloCals
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Old 10-26-17, 10:22 AM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by altenwrencher View Post
Nice bike. Looks like the tires are on backwards, judging by the direction of the angled grooves.
Okay--thanks, that's interesting. So observant!

The owner had replaced the original simplex quick release skewers with Campagnolo ones. This morning I decided that he had put the front one on backwards, because I couldn't get the wheel centered in the fork until I turned it around. Also noticed that writing on the hub was upside down as it was; now it is right, now that I've turned the wheel around to face the other way and reversed the skewer.

So now I have tires facing two different ways, and have to figure out--is the front tire on backwards or is it the rear one.
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Old 10-26-17, 10:23 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by jj1091 View Post
That broken-up decal is definitely a Carlton, Worksop decal. Here's a page from Velocals, showing a replacement set with your downtube Carlton decal in it.


Raleigh International Bicycle Decal Set - VeloCals
Very cool! Thank you.

Now I'm just wondering about the difference between Raleighs that are non-Workshop and those that are. But that might be a topic for another thread.
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Old 10-26-17, 11:11 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by newblue View Post
Very cool! Thank you.

Now I'm just wondering about the difference between Raleighs that are non-Workshop and those that are. But that might be a topic for another thread.
...not "workshop", but "Worksop" ( a geographic locale). Plenty of history on the internet on Raleigh in Worksop with Google.

The one common "upgrade" that was often done on those was to a lighter weight, aluminum cotterless crank, but I have ridden that era Super Course both ways, and cannot say whether I prefer one over the other. That's a nice one, with the paint still in pretty good shape. The suggesstion for fenders is a good one if you are going to keep it and ride it as your own. They have a following (that age of Super Course) because of the unbutted tubing (heavier, but also maybe a little stiffer for a bike with a longer wheel base like that), and the open, longer geometry that gives a smoother ride.

It has proprietary Raleigh threading, both in the headset and in the BB shell, so try not to damage anything in disassembly for lubrication. That stuff is getting harder to find now.
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Old 10-26-17, 11:15 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by 3alarmer View Post
...not "workshop", but "Worksop" ( a geographic locale). Plenty of history on the internet on Raleigh in Worksop with Google.

The one common "upgrade" that was often done on those was to a lighter weight, aluminum cotterless crank, but I have ridden that era Super Course both ways, and cannot say whether I prefer one over the other. That's a nice one, with the paint still in pretty good shape. The suggesstion for fenders is a good one if you are going to keep it and ride it as your own. They have a following (that age of Super Course) because of the unbutted tubing (heavier, but also maybe a little stiffer for a bike with a longer wheel base like that), and the open, longer geometry that gives a smoother ride.

It has proprietary Raleigh threading, both in the headset and in the BB shell, so try not to damage anything in disassembly for lubrication. That stuff is getting harder to find now.
I see! Thanks for correcting me. My eyes were seeing workshop. Embarrassing!

And thanks for the tips. As always you all are the most knowledgeable and helpful.
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Old 10-26-17, 11:38 AM
  #11  
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That is a lovely bike, and I would suggest that it is a keeper ... now, pretty please, what sort of handlebar mount bottle cage is that?
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Old 10-26-17, 12:47 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by rustystrings61 View Post
That is a lovely bike, and I would suggest that it is a keeper ... now, pretty please, what sort of handlebar mount bottle cage is that?
It says Schwinn Sprint on it.
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Old 10-26-17, 06:27 PM
  #13  
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Here's a link to a pretty cool Super Course chart.

Tom Forhan's Periodic Table of the Raleigh Super Course

And here is a pic of a 1972 SC that passed thru my hands a few years ago.

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Old 10-26-17, 07:01 PM
  #14  
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Major beginner's luck. Enjoy that bike.

Figure out why the wheel doesn't center easily. Is the wheel itself built to one side? is the fork not straight?

Conti tires all ride stiff. Duraskin Flat Protection System makes me hurt already. Paselas or even generic Kenda will make that bike plush like it should be. Not many choices anymore in 27x1-1/4 but basic can be good on this one.

But mostly just wow.
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Old 10-26-17, 07:21 PM
  #15  
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Here's another vote for Panaracer Pasela tires, or even generic Kenda. Many folks replaced original 27 X 1 1/4 with 1 1/8, which can be a good choice depending on your weight and your road conditions.


I have tan sidewall Pasela 27 X 1 1/8 on a Motobecane Grand Touring and black Pasela 700X35 on a Falcon, both bikes only slightly newer than your Raleigh, and I think those tires bring out the best in bikes of that vintage. And Paselas have a subtle arrow on the sidewall showing direction of rotation.
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Old 10-27-17, 06:04 AM
  #16  
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Very nice specimen indeed. Be warned that ilke a stray cat you feed these old Super Courses might tend to stick around. I picked up a '72 green SC earlier this year for $75 intending to fix up and sell (I already have a '77), but once I got it refurbed and rode it a few times I couldn't bear to see it go.
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Old 10-30-17, 11:05 AM
  #17  
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Thanks for all the tips and knowledge and encouragement!
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Old 11-01-17, 04:57 PM
  #18  
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Here's my '73. I never noticed the gold striping that yours has on the fork and frame tubes. My bike was a found frame only, that had been spray painted over, so I had to research the decals and markings. It was origially coffee brown like yours (under spray paint) but i changed it to modern Toyota green. You have a great looking bike for the money certainly. I have over 10x that amount in mine, but I love this bike. It's a great ride. Enjoy!

Like an above suggestion, I love the ride with 28c 700c Pasela PTs, my first time on these tires, always rode Gatorskins before.
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Old 11-11-17, 03:13 PM
  #19  
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Nice paint scheme
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Old 11-11-17, 10:56 PM
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I'd call it a keeper!

Cheers,
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Old 11-14-17, 04:52 PM
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KEEPER- for sure!
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Old 11-15-17, 10:12 AM
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A keeper for sure! I love my Raleigh's
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Old 11-15-17, 10:17 AM
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The water bottle holder is just icing on the cake! Super cool and hard to find. Joe
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Old 11-20-17, 11:19 PM
  #24  
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Nice find at a great price. I had 2 1973 Super Courses that I let go because I had a 73 Competition. Have the Competition still...but wish I had kept those Super Courses too.
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Old 11-22-17, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by altenwrencher View Post
Looks like the tires are on backwards, judging by the direction of the angled grooves.
http://://www.sheldonbrown.com/tires.html


"Tread Directionality

Some tires have an asymmetrical tread, for instance "V" shaped tread blocks that could be oriented with the point of the "V" facing forward > or backward <. The question then arises, which way should they face?

Road Applications
With tires for road use, it really doesn't matter, since tire tread patterns serve no function on hard surfaces.
Tires with "V" patterns are common for motorcycles, and are generally installed so that the point of the "V" hits the road first. This is to help "squirt" the water out ahead of and to the side of the tire contact patch, as a protection against hydroplaning . Since hydroplaning is impossible on a bicycle, there's no need to observe this custom.

Off-road Applications
For off-road use in soft surfaces, there may be some merit in paying attention to the tread orientation, though this is far from certain.
Ideally, you would like the front tire to offer maximum traction in the braking direction, while the rear tire would normally be oriented to produce maximum traction for drive forces. Thus, if a particular tread pattern is perceived to have better traction in one direction than the other, it should be facing one way if used on the front wheel, and the opposite way if used on the rear wheel."
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