calving

Hello!

I stumbled on this bike for $200 at the thrift store. Bought it because it was my size and ran well (these things being about the limit of my bike knowledge). I looked up the Peugeot catalogue from the early 60s, but--to my untrained eye--all the pictures looked more or less the same. It needs a little bit of work, and I'm hoping to figure out what parts this thing uses and how much money it's worth pouring in.

Can anyone help me figure out what kind of Peugeot this is? What it's worth? I checked previous Peugeot threads on this forum, but still wasn't sure what I have.

I tried uploading pictures, but the site isn't allowing that. Can't post a direct link either, but I made an imgur with that has this (/a/wW9SH) after the imgur homepage url.

Sorry for the photo confusion and thank you for reading.

Calvin

Aubergine 

Here’s the best pic:



This bike is in great shape. It is a UO-8 model, which many of us here know as a great bike to ride once the wheels and derailleurs have been changed. (Steel rims are heavy and don’t brake well; aluminum rims fix both problems. And the Simplex derailleurs can be replaced by Suntour or Shimano bits from the 70s or 80s.)

I can’t tell what year yours is, but it is definitely from the 60s. Nice find!

calving

Thank you, Aubergine! That is extremely helpful.

randyjawa 

Looks like a Peugeot UO8 similar to this one from the early seventies...



Value is defined by the bike's condition, size and location. Other factors to consider include your marketing skills and, in some areas, time of the year.

At $200.00, you are close to the bike's value, already. My opinion, of course.

juvela

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From what can be seen in images date looks like 1969 or 1970.

Bicycle's original saddle ADGA 28A:



https://oi750.photobucket.com/albums/...%20USA/279.jpg

Coincidence - bought a new PX10E from this same shop in 1970. Then we bought a new U18 for my girlfriend in this same colour from the shop also in 1970.

Pic assist:





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wrk101

Not a 1963, focus on the decals first. $200 for a 1970+/- UO8 with the rear brake cable zip tied to the top tube? Steel rims, steel handlebars, plastic dérailleurs, steel seatpost and cottered crankset. Too much I am afraid.

Unfortunately thrift stores are no longer always a good deal. I routinely see bikes at thrift stores for double or triple their value. I’ve seen some even higher. In the “good old days” thrift stores sold bikes cheap, really cheap.

Best option is to resell at a loss, spend a little time learning what makes a bike a deal and try again. Randy’s site is a good place to start.

Over the years I have lost way over $200 on mistakes. I call it tuition. 1960s and 1970s french bikes tend to be more work to upgrade. Doable but more costly than their Japanese competition. Best suited for someone with experience and a pile of parts.

Aubergine 

Baloney. Yes, the OP could have paid less, but those UO-8s are great bikes to ride once the wheels and derailleurs have been changed. There’s nothing wrong with the rest of the bike, including the steel bits. Those do add weight, but so what?

calving, I considered my Old Peugeot to be worth a complete rebuild, with modern wheels, new derailleurs, and a complete paint job. It is the bike I ride more than any of my bikes, including several high end and custom frames.

randyjawa 

Good word but not on target, in my opinion, which is my way of saying baloney. Incidentally, Aubergine, I do like what you have done to that lovely light green steed. Very pretty and I bet it is fun to ride, however...

The OP will have to add another couple of hundred dollars for wheels, derailleurs and the work to make those items fit/work (the OP has already admitted that he or she knows little about bikes so any work building wheels, installing new stuff and, of course, proper lubrication, will be done by a local shop, and perhaps not all that well). Now we are up to $400.00+ for a bike that does offer nice ride quality but is not really worth what the OP will have into it.

If the bike is to be a keeper, then four hundred bucks, though a lot, makes the cost more acceptable. But keep in mind, that should the OP wish to sell, he/she will, more than likely, loose money.

For $400+, he or she can get a heck of a lot nicer bicycle. My own Peugeot, with shipping and all, set me back less than $400 and mine rides a heck of a lot nicer than any of the UO8 offerings that have come my way and is, likely, worth more than I have into it...

T-Mar

Agreed, it's a UO8, circa 1968-1970.

jj1091

They're fine-riding bikes. Looks like what you bought is in quite nice shape. The frame paint and graphics are excellent compared to what I usually deal with. I don't see any rust on the rims, and just a few rusty nuts and bolts which can be easily cleaned up. The early version straight-lever Simplex quick-release levers would cost a bit if you needed a pair. The tires look like new inexpensive Kenda's, which are decent riding tires. Except for needing a replaced cable for the rear brake and some new bartape, you probably won't need much to make a very fine-riding bike.

As to cost, it might seem a little high-priced to most C&V folk, but when you consider everything needed when refurbing a cheap bike, I think you may come out ahead. Say you got the bike for $100, but then it needed wheels and tires. A replacement set for someone without spares in the basement would likely run you $150, and if you know little about bikes as you've indicated, you'd spend significantly more to have your bike shop put them on for you. If you bought it for investment or resale, it's not a good deal, but if you bought it to ride, it's not a bad price at all.

wrk101

Looks like an AVA death stem on there, which was commonly stock. When you replace the stem, its a good time to swap the bars too as french bars had their own unique (smaller) clamp diameter.

Aubergine's UO8 above is sweet, I see about $800 worth of improvements to get the OPs bike to that point. If you have someone else do the work, estimate would be much higher.

I rode a fully upgraded UO8 for many years, I bought it new in 1974 and had it for almost 40 years. I was pretty resourceful, found some donor bikes along the way (like a $10 UO8 with a three piece alloy Stronglight crankset). So the cost was reasonable. Ultimately it was too big for me, so I moved on.

As a minimum, I would replace stem, plastic derailleurs, fix the rear brake cable, replace grease and bearings in wheel hubs, bottom bracket, and headset. I much prefer alloy rims but you could hold off on that a while.





https://www.sheldonbrown.com/velos.html

calving

I am impressed by your collective ability to get so much info out of these photos.

A little background:
I'm looking for a bike to ride around my urban environment (not sell). Most of the used bikes I've been seeing have been going around $350--which I've little ability to tell is a good price or not--and I've had enough nightmare Craigslist experiences, that the thrift store seemed a relief. It rode smoothly when I tested it. The main annoyances I noticed were that the seat was rougher on me than I'm used to, one wheel wobbles a little (I think the bolts on either side need tightening), and the back brakes squeal.

I've been biking around since my teens (I'm 28 and car-less), but seem to forget anything mechanical about the bikes as soon as I've learned. My last one had an aluminum frame that got full of hairline cracks after I wiped out in a storm. The bike shop told me that the various parts were still good, but the frame itself was a death trap.

There's a bike church in the area I can borrow tools from if I want to try doing any work myself. You've all recommended swapping out a few of the pieces on the U08--do you know if I could harvest any of those from my busted Raleigh? They're both 50cm, and I was wondering if the Raleigh's wheels, which I believe are aluminum, would transfer.

Thank you.


PS 1963 is the date I got from the thrift store. Apparently the donor gave them that year--but they might have been wrong.

calving

PS Let me know if better/more specific photos are needed, and I'll do my best to oblige.

2cam16

You might not be able to install your Raleigh wheels on the Peugeot as you will need a wider spread on your seat stays to accommodate the added gears. Not unless you have the ability and resources to cold-set the stays. It's easy but you need some materials. Not unless the U08 has the same spacing. Then that means with the added gears you'll have to figure out how to transfer your drivetrain over.
I'm not a French bike expert so I'll leave it to the ones in the know.

0.2HP

I'm looking for a death stem, for a "Memento Mori" bike I'm building; starting with a Viscount with the original fork, it's going to have Pivo type extension brake levels with no primary levers, clincher tiers on tubular wheels, and (hopefully) AVA stem and bars like on the OP's new bike. I check the Classic and Vintage Sales forum here often, if the OP of someone else wants to unload some AVA aluminum.

(If any one has Cinelli M71 pedals cheep, I'm looking for a pair of those too.)

(And no, I'm not building this bike to give to my brother-in-law.)

79pmooney

I'm thinking that 1963 might not be that far off. The double eyelets on the fork. I've never seen those before and I have been around UO-8s since 1966. Owned a '67. Best friends had '66s. Aubergine, what year is yours?

Ben

digi604

That is a gorgeous bike.

merziac

Certainly no expert here but earlier Simplex skewers, Mafac dural forge brakes, earlier? downtube shifters and earlier tubing decal w/lion seem to be 1970.

Aubergine 

Ben, mine is mid 70s based on the original decals, which had the slanted gold stripes. If you were wondering about the double eyelets, I had a metalworker modernize the frame substantially before I had it coated.

StarBiker

Gotta love the thrifts in Seattle. $200. I might have paid $30 for that bike.