Schwinn Collegiate 3 speed
12-22-16, 09:31 AM
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Schwinn Collegiate 3 speed
Does anyone kmow anyone who collects Schwinns near Baltimore?
I was just given a Schwinn Collegiate 3 speed that is dusty but is completely original. It even has the original grips, seat and even the reflectors in the spokes are original. It sat in a shed for many many years. Even the tires are original though dry rotted and flat.
It has chrome fenders etc.
Anyone know anyone that would like it.......
I was just given a Schwinn Collegiate 3 speed that is dusty but is completely original. It even has the original grips, seat and even the reflectors in the spokes are original. It sat in a shed for many many years. Even the tires are original though dry rotted and flat.
It has chrome fenders etc.
Anyone know anyone that would like it.......
12-22-16, 01:05 PM
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Are you wanting to know what it is worth to sell, or are you offering it to a Schwinn collector for free?
12-22-16, 03:20 PM
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Offering for free
That being said I would never turn down a free will offering though ;-)
12-22-16, 04:10 PM
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I am not a Schwinn collector. My preference is old Raleigh 3 speeds. I am certain that there are some Schwinn lovers in he area who would love to have the bike.
My advice is that you offer it to a bike coop in Baltimore. They will either refurbish it and sell, or give to a client who needs transportation.
My advice is that you offer it to a bike coop in Baltimore. They will either refurbish it and sell, or give to a client who needs transportation.
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08-01-19, 05:32 AM
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I think that the Schwinn COLLEGIATE 3 Speed was available only in 1970 model year, and the COLLEGIATE 3 Speed returned for 1979 and was available in 1979, 1980, and 1981....you'll have to check as to after 1981....maybe '82 as CHICAGO plant ended soon after....I don't know about Mississippi and later Murray built stuff. I'M NOT AN EXPERT. I seem to recall a friend saying that the Ashtabula blade fork, which was a staple of the Schwinn lightweights like the Collegiate/Varsity/Racer/Breeze/Speedster also ceased production due to the end of that factory around the same time.
COLLEGIATE 3 Speed ( OFFERED in 1970 and then again from 1979 thru 1981)
WHAT YOU SHOULD KNOW is that the COLLEGIATE as introduced for 1964 (1964 to the Chicago end) was a FIVE SPEED MODEL.
****As far as the Schwinn THREE SPEED models:
The 1957 Schwinn RACER 3 speed is essentially the same exact bicycle (RACER was year models 1957 thru 1971)
The Schwinn BREEZE 3 speed models, and The Schwinn SPEEDSTER 3 speed models are essentially the same exact bicycles as the 3 speed RACER models and the 3 speed COLLEGIATE models. There are essentially NO SIGNIFICANT DIFFERENCES, other than perhaps one model or another offered Chrome fenders while the other model offered Painted fenders to match the frame color.
The BREEZE was the step-through(ladies). I think there was another name used in the distant past that also was a step-through in 3 speed and (37 x 597mm 26 x 1 3/8 schwinn only tire)
*******ALL OF THESE HAVE THAT 26 x 1 3/8, 37mm X 597mm schwinn only tire. KENDA MAKES THIS TIRE I believe it is called the Kenda K23, (37 x 597). Available from major online bicycle shops/parts dealers for less than $20 total cost per tire including shipping to your door. There are BLACKWALL, GUMWALL, and WHITEWALL versions available. Expect to possibly pay more for the whitewall version. THESE ARE SUPERB TIRES.
They are a little bit difficult to mount evenly IF YOU AREN'T EXPERIENCED in mounting bicycle tires! You may want to pay to have them mounted by someone knowledgeable at your favorite LBS, as the labor to do so will not be terribly expensive and you'll have them smooth rolling...
***************************Schwinn Year Model..... (mid sixties -and- 1970's -and- Chicago last days of early eighties):
YOU HAVE TWO LETTERS and NUMBERS as the serial number on Chicago built , electro forged Schwinn bicycles.
------The 2nd LETTER denotes the YEAR and the 1st Letter denotes the MONTH---
1970: F
1971: G
1972: H
1973: J
1974: K
1975: L
1976: M
1977: N
1978: P
1980: Q
1981: R
1969: E
1968: D
1967: C
1966: B
1965: A
(IMPORTANT: Remember that for 1965 onward CHICAGO production that the SECOND LETTER denotes the YEAR model !!!)
The FIRST LETTER is the Month of Production...... Example A= January, B= Feb, C= March .....the letters I and O are not used.........
If you're curious about these great old 3 speed SCHWINN (37 x 597 , 26 inch tire schwinn only....that KENDA makes today...)
I urge you to see the following:
https://bikehistory.org/bikes/racer/
https://bikehistory.org/bikes/breeze/
https://bikehistory.org/bikes/speedster/
https://bikehistory.org/bikes/collegiate/
FOR EXAMPLE, YOU WILL SEE THAT the 1957 RACER 3 speed is exactly the same bicycle as a sixties and seventies BREEZE 3 speed. The 1970 COLLEGIATE 3 speed is exactly the same as a 1972 SPEEDSTER 3 speed.........The 1970 COLLEGIATE 3 speed is exactly the same as the 1957 RACER 3 speed.......etc......you get the picture.................................differences are very very minor. The most noteable difference is that pre-1966 SCHWINN models have a headtube and stem that is more industry-standard than the 1966 and later SCHWINN bicycles which feature a STRONGER THICKER WALLED HEADTUBE FOR ADDED STRENGTH. You will also note that the STEP THROUGH ladies frames have a sort of a " j curve" to the top bar from 1966 to Chicago end. The 1965 and prior STEP THROUGH ladies frames have a straight top bar, similar to the shape seen on an old ladies Raleigh Sprite.
THESE EARLY and LATE Schwinn stems are of slightly different sizes and WILL NOT INTERCHANGE due to the later thicker walled headtube requiring a narrower stem. This is not a problem as Millions of the Late style stems were made. The early style stem size is even more common. YOU JUST CANNOT INTERCHANGE THE STEMS. The Bottom Brackets are all the same ONE PIECE American style forged steel "Ashtabula" with #64 caged bearings.
I believe that every one of these 3 speed bicycles of the 26 inch wheel (37 x 597mm) variety has the SCHWINN 46 TEETH Crank Wheel.
Most have the "CLOVER-LEAF" design , although many from the late sixties onward also have the "MAG Style" design for certain year models, etc.
There is also a "reproduction SWEETHEART design" in 46 tooth crank wheel that is being made that you could swap if you so desired.
YOU COULD swap any old/new crank wheel that fits a ONE PIECE style crank if you so desire. Changing teeth size, slightly smaller or slightly larger will impact your gearing........................generally Larger (more teeth) on front crank = higher top speed potential, and less hill climbing ability IF ALL ELSE REMAINS UNCHANGED..................................and vice-versa, Smaller(less teeth) on front crank = better hill climbing ability and less potential for high top speed.
Realistically, you can find many 44 tooth, 48 tooth, 50 tooth, and even an inexpensive aftermarket new chinese made steel 52 tooth crank wheel for any One Piece Crank........you can also find wheels with thirty something and lower forty tooth configurations......SO YOU CAN POSSIBLY HELP TAILOR YOUR 3 SPEED EXPERIENCE TO A SLIGHT DEGREE if you would like to.
I urge you to scroll through the old Schwinn Catalogs, you have them courtesy of the waterford bikes site:
1971 - 1980:
https://waterfordbikes.com/SchwinnCa...980/index.html
1961 - 1970:
https://waterfordbikes.com/SchwinnCa...inn_1961_1970/
See also:
Vintage Bicycle Repair - About the Author
https://thecabe.com/forum/
Schwinn Serial Numbers and Date Codes
https://waterfordbikes.com/w/culture/schwinn-catalogs/
IF YOU ARE INTERESTED IN THE 5 speed and 10 speed "Lightweight" SCHWINNS, there are the "Schwinn Lightweight Data Book".....
Google: 1970 - 1974 Schwinn Lightweight Data Book
1975 - 1979 Schwinn Lightweight Data Book
1965 - 1969 Schwinn Lightweight Data Book
1960 - 1964 Schwinn Lightweight Data Book
You'll find web links to view these. These only focus on the ten speed and five speed models....you won't find 3 speed models covered here.
Oh, one more thing (........like Lt. Columbo, I know.....)
There was a SUBURBAN three speed offered in 1970 and 1971 ONLY (the Suburban was the 27" wheel (32-630mm) electro-forged Schwinn in Tourist configuration) You see that the SUBURBAN appeared in 1970 as a replacement for the Varsity Tourist. IT WAS AVAILABLE IN ten speed and also in FIVE SPEED version, and there was also a 3 speed version too in 1970 and 1971.
Like the COLLEGIATE 5 speed of 1970 - 1977, the SUBURBAN 5 speed of 1970 - 1977 has SHIMANO rear derailleur and Shimano MODEL J freewheel with 32-14 gear range and a 46 teeth single front crank wheel. These were the first Schwinns to feature SHIMANO which was far superior to any French made HURET or any other European made derailleur or freewheel of the seventies. The '69 Collegiate 5 speed has French made (MODEL F) freewheel with 28-14 gear range and 46 teeth single front crank wheel and the vastly inferior Huret -Schwinn Approved rear derailleur.................The 10 speed SUBURBAN/Varsities/Continentals also have the inferior French made (model F) freewheel and vastly inferior Huret-Schwinn Approved derailleur. THE GT-100 (1970-1973 on Collegiate 5 speed and Suburban 5 speed) is a significantly better rear derailleur than the Huret. The GT-120 (1974-1977 on the Collegiate 5 speed and Suburban 5 speed) is even more Shimano as it has the limit screws located in the most common Shimano location. Both the GT-100 and the later GT-120 are Shimano built for Schwinn and are much better than the Huret derailleurs on Varsities/Continentals/Suburban 10 speeds. There are reasons that the world was "turning Japanese" and by 1977 the Europeans were just about wiped out, was simply that Maeda (SUNTOUR) and SHIMANO were better in every way to even the most expensive European offerings.....superior functionality.....superior engineering.....reliabilty that bear everyone else. You do not want a "H" rear derailleur , or even a fancy "C" rear derailleur on any vintage ten speed if you can ride with a new old stock SUNTOUR rear derailleur or some type of SHIMANO Skylark or Eagle variant. Just as with tape decks, radios televisions, hi-fi stereo, consumer electronics, and automobiles, the Japanese took quality to a level never previously imagined by European or American firms.
Quality of Japanese road bike ten speeds/twelve speeds of the mid seventies through the eighties is as good or better than any other manufacturer across all product line offerings.....
REMEMBER: "Stay Thin, Ride A Schwinn"
Captain Kangaroo knew more than Sgt Schultz did. Some folks are too much like Mr. Haney in their bicycle appraisals.
Enjoy your bike riding, whatever you choose to ride.
It is all about having fun and getting some fresh air and a little bit of exercise too.
The "Peloton" experience isn't bike riding, although some may enjoy it.....you do get someone on the screen saying come on peloton riders, keep it up and you got this................................but really get out as in outside on a real bicycle, even if it is a lowly ROSS, JC HIGGINS, COLUMBIA, MONARCH, HUFFY, MURRAY, ALL-PRO, AMF, WESTERN FLYER, ROLLFAST....whatever you've got to get you started and the wheels turning........ ...........then once you see that just as your momma told you in the fifties or sixties, to go outside and play...........realize that it will do you good today as a "mature" adult..................Do get a helmet and wear it.
Then expand your bicycle adventures/experiences however you wish to.................get the new bike that you really want, or the vintage one, or build or assemble a bike the way that you'd like it.................................ADVENTURE BEFORE DEMENTIA........The Older You Get, The More Important It Is To NOT ACT Your Age................................that is a saying that Phil O. from Canada on the MGB forum came up with years ago, and it is a darn good one!
COLLEGIATE 3 Speed ( OFFERED in 1970 and then again from 1979 thru 1981)
WHAT YOU SHOULD KNOW is that the COLLEGIATE as introduced for 1964 (1964 to the Chicago end) was a FIVE SPEED MODEL.
****As far as the Schwinn THREE SPEED models:
The 1957 Schwinn RACER 3 speed is essentially the same exact bicycle (RACER was year models 1957 thru 1971)
The Schwinn BREEZE 3 speed models, and The Schwinn SPEEDSTER 3 speed models are essentially the same exact bicycles as the 3 speed RACER models and the 3 speed COLLEGIATE models. There are essentially NO SIGNIFICANT DIFFERENCES, other than perhaps one model or another offered Chrome fenders while the other model offered Painted fenders to match the frame color.
The BREEZE was the step-through(ladies). I think there was another name used in the distant past that also was a step-through in 3 speed and (37 x 597mm 26 x 1 3/8 schwinn only tire)
*******ALL OF THESE HAVE THAT 26 x 1 3/8, 37mm X 597mm schwinn only tire. KENDA MAKES THIS TIRE I believe it is called the Kenda K23, (37 x 597). Available from major online bicycle shops/parts dealers for less than $20 total cost per tire including shipping to your door. There are BLACKWALL, GUMWALL, and WHITEWALL versions available. Expect to possibly pay more for the whitewall version. THESE ARE SUPERB TIRES.
They are a little bit difficult to mount evenly IF YOU AREN'T EXPERIENCED in mounting bicycle tires! You may want to pay to have them mounted by someone knowledgeable at your favorite LBS, as the labor to do so will not be terribly expensive and you'll have them smooth rolling...
***************************Schwinn Year Model..... (mid sixties -and- 1970's -and- Chicago last days of early eighties):
YOU HAVE TWO LETTERS and NUMBERS as the serial number on Chicago built , electro forged Schwinn bicycles.
------The 2nd LETTER denotes the YEAR and the 1st Letter denotes the MONTH---
1970: F
1971: G
1972: H
1973: J
1974: K
1975: L
1976: M
1977: N
1978: P
1980: Q
1981: R
1969: E
1968: D
1967: C
1966: B
1965: A
(IMPORTANT: Remember that for 1965 onward CHICAGO production that the SECOND LETTER denotes the YEAR model !!!)
The FIRST LETTER is the Month of Production...... Example A= January, B= Feb, C= March .....the letters I and O are not used.........
If you're curious about these great old 3 speed SCHWINN (37 x 597 , 26 inch tire schwinn only....that KENDA makes today...)
I urge you to see the following:
https://bikehistory.org/bikes/racer/
https://bikehistory.org/bikes/breeze/
https://bikehistory.org/bikes/speedster/
https://bikehistory.org/bikes/collegiate/
FOR EXAMPLE, YOU WILL SEE THAT the 1957 RACER 3 speed is exactly the same bicycle as a sixties and seventies BREEZE 3 speed. The 1970 COLLEGIATE 3 speed is exactly the same as a 1972 SPEEDSTER 3 speed.........The 1970 COLLEGIATE 3 speed is exactly the same as the 1957 RACER 3 speed.......etc......you get the picture.................................differences are very very minor. The most noteable difference is that pre-1966 SCHWINN models have a headtube and stem that is more industry-standard than the 1966 and later SCHWINN bicycles which feature a STRONGER THICKER WALLED HEADTUBE FOR ADDED STRENGTH. You will also note that the STEP THROUGH ladies frames have a sort of a " j curve" to the top bar from 1966 to Chicago end. The 1965 and prior STEP THROUGH ladies frames have a straight top bar, similar to the shape seen on an old ladies Raleigh Sprite.
THESE EARLY and LATE Schwinn stems are of slightly different sizes and WILL NOT INTERCHANGE due to the later thicker walled headtube requiring a narrower stem. This is not a problem as Millions of the Late style stems were made. The early style stem size is even more common. YOU JUST CANNOT INTERCHANGE THE STEMS. The Bottom Brackets are all the same ONE PIECE American style forged steel "Ashtabula" with #64 caged bearings.
I believe that every one of these 3 speed bicycles of the 26 inch wheel (37 x 597mm) variety has the SCHWINN 46 TEETH Crank Wheel.
Most have the "CLOVER-LEAF" design , although many from the late sixties onward also have the "MAG Style" design for certain year models, etc.
There is also a "reproduction SWEETHEART design" in 46 tooth crank wheel that is being made that you could swap if you so desired.
YOU COULD swap any old/new crank wheel that fits a ONE PIECE style crank if you so desire. Changing teeth size, slightly smaller or slightly larger will impact your gearing........................generally Larger (more teeth) on front crank = higher top speed potential, and less hill climbing ability IF ALL ELSE REMAINS UNCHANGED..................................and vice-versa, Smaller(less teeth) on front crank = better hill climbing ability and less potential for high top speed.
Realistically, you can find many 44 tooth, 48 tooth, 50 tooth, and even an inexpensive aftermarket new chinese made steel 52 tooth crank wheel for any One Piece Crank........you can also find wheels with thirty something and lower forty tooth configurations......SO YOU CAN POSSIBLY HELP TAILOR YOUR 3 SPEED EXPERIENCE TO A SLIGHT DEGREE if you would like to.
I urge you to scroll through the old Schwinn Catalogs, you have them courtesy of the waterford bikes site:
1971 - 1980:
https://waterfordbikes.com/SchwinnCa...980/index.html
1961 - 1970:
https://waterfordbikes.com/SchwinnCa...inn_1961_1970/
See also:
Vintage Bicycle Repair - About the Author
https://thecabe.com/forum/
Schwinn Serial Numbers and Date Codes
https://waterfordbikes.com/w/culture/schwinn-catalogs/
IF YOU ARE INTERESTED IN THE 5 speed and 10 speed "Lightweight" SCHWINNS, there are the "Schwinn Lightweight Data Book".....
Google: 1970 - 1974 Schwinn Lightweight Data Book
1975 - 1979 Schwinn Lightweight Data Book
1965 - 1969 Schwinn Lightweight Data Book
1960 - 1964 Schwinn Lightweight Data Book
You'll find web links to view these. These only focus on the ten speed and five speed models....you won't find 3 speed models covered here.
Oh, one more thing (........like Lt. Columbo, I know.....)
There was a SUBURBAN three speed offered in 1970 and 1971 ONLY (the Suburban was the 27" wheel (32-630mm) electro-forged Schwinn in Tourist configuration) You see that the SUBURBAN appeared in 1970 as a replacement for the Varsity Tourist. IT WAS AVAILABLE IN ten speed and also in FIVE SPEED version, and there was also a 3 speed version too in 1970 and 1971.
Like the COLLEGIATE 5 speed of 1970 - 1977, the SUBURBAN 5 speed of 1970 - 1977 has SHIMANO rear derailleur and Shimano MODEL J freewheel with 32-14 gear range and a 46 teeth single front crank wheel. These were the first Schwinns to feature SHIMANO which was far superior to any French made HURET or any other European made derailleur or freewheel of the seventies. The '69 Collegiate 5 speed has French made (MODEL F) freewheel with 28-14 gear range and 46 teeth single front crank wheel and the vastly inferior Huret -Schwinn Approved rear derailleur.................The 10 speed SUBURBAN/Varsities/Continentals also have the inferior French made (model F) freewheel and vastly inferior Huret-Schwinn Approved derailleur. THE GT-100 (1970-1973 on Collegiate 5 speed and Suburban 5 speed) is a significantly better rear derailleur than the Huret. The GT-120 (1974-1977 on the Collegiate 5 speed and Suburban 5 speed) is even more Shimano as it has the limit screws located in the most common Shimano location. Both the GT-100 and the later GT-120 are Shimano built for Schwinn and are much better than the Huret derailleurs on Varsities/Continentals/Suburban 10 speeds. There are reasons that the world was "turning Japanese" and by 1977 the Europeans were just about wiped out, was simply that Maeda (SUNTOUR) and SHIMANO were better in every way to even the most expensive European offerings.....superior functionality.....superior engineering.....reliabilty that bear everyone else. You do not want a "H" rear derailleur , or even a fancy "C" rear derailleur on any vintage ten speed if you can ride with a new old stock SUNTOUR rear derailleur or some type of SHIMANO Skylark or Eagle variant. Just as with tape decks, radios televisions, hi-fi stereo, consumer electronics, and automobiles, the Japanese took quality to a level never previously imagined by European or American firms.
Quality of Japanese road bike ten speeds/twelve speeds of the mid seventies through the eighties is as good or better than any other manufacturer across all product line offerings.....
REMEMBER: "Stay Thin, Ride A Schwinn"
Captain Kangaroo knew more than Sgt Schultz did. Some folks are too much like Mr. Haney in their bicycle appraisals.
Enjoy your bike riding, whatever you choose to ride.
It is all about having fun and getting some fresh air and a little bit of exercise too.
The "Peloton" experience isn't bike riding, although some may enjoy it.....you do get someone on the screen saying come on peloton riders, keep it up and you got this................................but really get out as in outside on a real bicycle, even if it is a lowly ROSS, JC HIGGINS, COLUMBIA, MONARCH, HUFFY, MURRAY, ALL-PRO, AMF, WESTERN FLYER, ROLLFAST....whatever you've got to get you started and the wheels turning........ ...........then once you see that just as your momma told you in the fifties or sixties, to go outside and play...........realize that it will do you good today as a "mature" adult..................Do get a helmet and wear it.
Then expand your bicycle adventures/experiences however you wish to.................get the new bike that you really want, or the vintage one, or build or assemble a bike the way that you'd like it.................................ADVENTURE BEFORE DEMENTIA........The Older You Get, The More Important It Is To NOT ACT Your Age................................that is a saying that Phil O. from Canada on the MGB forum came up with years ago, and it is a darn good one!
I like your posts and your appreciation of old Schwinn's @Vintage Schwinn - don't change
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08-02-19, 10:19 PM
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It was made in Chicago. At Chicago Schwinn. Number G0483 on the frame near the rear wheel. Another number on the opposite side of the frame near the rear wheel says 3114022. Not seeing these two letters like you mentioned.
08-03-19, 04:54 PM
#14
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The G0483 number on the chainstay indicates the bike was made by Giant (in Taiwan) in April 1983 or 1993. There should be a 4-digit number stamped in the headbadge that would indicate the day and year the bike was built.
Last edited by Metacortex; 08-04-19 at 07:21 AM.
08-04-19, 02:02 PM
#15
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+1 Its a Giant, and Chicago plant was closed by then too. To the original old question, no collectors out there for Giant made Collegiates. I donated the last one I had (I got it for free, but still not worth the time and effort as far as resale (in my market). As something to ride and use, go for it!
Last edited by wrk101; 08-04-19 at 04:48 PM.
08-04-19, 02:10 PM
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Thanks. I like riding on it. It’s still cool to me. Wanted to know what I was working with. I’m so grateful for all the shared expertise!! Thank you for replying!! Have a good evening.🌆
03-06-21, 10:36 PM
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Chicago 1971 Schwinn Value?
My dad passed away 4 months ago and we are clearing out my parents house. We found his 1971 Chicago Schwinn bike that needs lots of love, but we don't know what to do with it. We don't have the time or passion to restore it, but my mom doesn't want to just junk it. I agree with her. I'd love to find it a home. Can anyone advise? It's rusty, has no tires, but otherwise has ll original parts and no damage. My mom livers in San Diego and that's where the bike is. I'd love any and all advice on how to price it if we were to sell it, and ideas on how to find the right buyer.
Thank you!
Erika
Thank you!
Erika
03-07-21, 03:12 AM
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The surface rust likely will clean up.(use a 99 cent ordinary kitchen Copper pot scrubber mesh thingy)
Buy a new one for your kitchen, and use the old one to clean up the bike's wheels and handlebar chrome......or use a new one on the bike, but don't use the one you remove the rust with for kitchen pots....................I mean you could if you rinsed it out thoroughly, but it might be better to just leave that one for dirty jobs in the garage.........they are inexpensive enough. The Copper pot scrubber mesh thingy does the best overall job of cleaning Schwinn chrome. Use COMET cleanser(powder) or AJAX cleaner(powder)..................get an aluminum pie pan that is left over from any apple pie, cherry pie, blueberrry pie, or even patty labelle's-sweet potato pie..........could be from anything.......from a tv dinner, or even you could use the plastic container from a Stouffers microwaveable entree, or any disposable lid.....or whatever. YOU SIMPLY NEED SOMETHING DISPOSABLE THAT YOU CAN SPRINKLE AN ANT MOUND AMOUNT OF COMET POWDER ON TO and then WET that just enough to BE ABLE TO "DIP" the Copper Pot Scrubber into......................Once you do that, you scrub the surface...............The SCHWINN CHROME will clean up like new in most cases! (only when there is chrome loss due to severe rust...will it not do so.......in that case you'll see areas that will look nearly new and some areas where there is chrome loss)--------------------------------Typically for Southern Calif, there shouldn't be really serious rust, even if the bicycle was left outdoors for much of its life..................perhaps if it was in the path of the lawn sprinklers, or spent time outdoors somewhere else in the country where there is significant rainfall.
Anyway, you'll be surprised how well an old Schwinn will clean up............not just the chrome, but the factory paint is extremely durable as it is several coats..
GO SEE EXAMPLES on the C.A.B.E. (the c.a.b.e. forums...........classic antique bicycle exchange is where ordinary folks collect, celebrate, build, and ride, and sometimes restore mostly made in usa bicycles of yesterday............mostly bikes of little market resale value, but some that the cabers do celebrate...etc are highly valued in resale mkt even though those same bikes were common in the 1930's, 1940's, 1950's and early 1960's... Google: c.a.b.e. forums
You'll see examples of how they cleaned up old bikes. One thing that I did learn from someone's example there on the cabe, is that the product called MR CLEAN MAGIC ERASER will work wonders cleaning up the dirty decals on Sixties and Seventies era Schwinns.................for example the area surrounding VARSITY or *Schwinn*, might look dirty/muddy compared to the frame paint without the decal........using MAGIC ERASER will do alot to clean up..........just be careful not to use it so much on the worded script such that you lose any of the VARSITY or *Schwinn* letters.
If your dad's old 1971 Schwinn was for example a PARAMOUNT it would be worth a lot in resale dollar value. If it was a SPORTS TOURER or a SUPER SPORT it would have some resale value. If it was a boy's model STINGRAY or one of the boy's KRATE (stingray variant) models it would be worth a lot. There is not a great deal of interest in common widely sold Schwinn models other than the sixties and early seventies boy's STINGRAY models. The Schwinn bikes are deemed to heavy to be taken seriously by most folks today even if the ancient Schwinns are a more practical, better built choice for some of these folks that buy new city-bikes and hybrid cruisers weighing around 34 pounds...........which is not significantly less than an ancient Schwinn which weighs 38 to 41 pounds...........the ancient Schwinn is a better bike in both durability and ease of servicing and probably ride comfort too..........these old Schwinns have a longer wheelbase than most all bikes today and their relaxed frame angle geometry combined adds to the stability & comfortable ride.........the headtube (angle) and the frame's seat-tube (angle) are about paralell so that one can adjust the seatpost height to accomodate a wide variety of different sized folks---people of differing heights.............(THERE ARE ALSO MANY DIFFERENT FRAME SIZES THAT WERE OFFERED in both men's DIAMOND shaped frames and women's STEP-THRU frames) ****There are also many EXTRA LONG Schwinn 13/16" diameter seatposts made and offered by WALD today that are widely available and relatively inexpensive. This is largely due to the STINGRAY banana seat bike which required long seatposts.............The typical original factory Schwinn seatpost in a typical "LIGHTWEIGHT" electroforged SCHWINN is about 9 inches in length and 13/16 diameter with the top part where the seat mounts being 5/8 diameter. The 5/8 diameter top where the seat mounts was typically the standard for most all American bikes from the 1940's through the 1970's. Nobody makes a seat with the 5/8 seat clamp anymore. About forty years ago, 7/8 seat clamp size became the norm on ordinary bicycles, so the tops of the seat posts had 7/8 top since the 1980's. REPLACEMENT NEW SEATS such as you'll see at Walmart or Target or elsewhere will require a 7/8 top part of the seatpost in order to mount----OR---------you can Flip The Old Seatpost Upside Down provided that you have enough 13/16 post diameter down into the bike frame's seat-tube-----YOU CAN'T COUNT THE LENGHT OF THE 5/8 PORTION !!!................13/16" is only 1/16th slimmer than 7/8" so that you can tighten the new seat clamp down enough to account for this 1/16th difference without any problem. (you remember 4th grade math and fractions...right?......because 7/8 is equal to 14/16...............and the difference between 14/16 and 13/16 is equal to 1/16th.......)
Well, the new WALD replacement seatposts are typically around $15 or sometimes less from major online bikeshops and bikeparts sellers. You can find them in lengths such as 10.5 inches, 15.5 inches and around 19 inches for the longest and there are other lengths too.....each has a different part number..........some are available with chrome plating.....................they even make repro's with the 5/8 top too, but if you're gonna fit a seat that is newer than the seventies, you'll want the post with 7/8 top or just flip your existing seat post provided you've got enough 13/16 down in the seat-tube to be safe............ANOTHER way is to attach an antique 5/8 seat clamp to the new modern seat, assuming it accepts that style of clamp
Tires and tubes are readily available for ancient Chicago Schwinn electroforged classics. Kenda makes the 597mm 26 x 1 3/8 37-597mm tire that the COLLEGIATE/SPEEDSTER/RACER/BREEZE/TRAVELER and other differing named variants from about 1950 through 1981/1982 when Schwinn left Chicago and was bound for newOrleans...actually Mississippi but I'm borrowing ZZtop's lyrics.....
On the "lightweights" with the 597mm bead seat diameter S5 and S6 twenty six rims of 597mm.......YOU MUST USE THE Kenda 597mm tires!!!!
The common 590mm 26 x 1 3/8 tires WILL NOT WORK ON Schwinn rims WHICH REQUIRE THE 597mm 26 x 1 3/8 tires.
As for the 27 x 1 1/4 630mm bead seat diameter rims as SEEN ON mid sixties onward VARSITY, SUBURBAN, CONTINENTAL etc.
These tires are very common. ALTHOUGH NO LOCAL BIKE SHOP WILL LIKELY STOCK THEM, YOU CAN EASILY OBTAIN THEM FROM ANY ONE OF MANY MAJOR ONLINE BIKE SHOPS AND BIKE PARTS SUPPLIERS. There is still at least a half dozen different manufacturers making the 32--630mm tire 27 x 1 1/4.
NEITHER tire is expensive. You can ALWAYS FIND new tires for approx $20 each TOTAL including the shipping to your door. A set of two NEW 27 inch (630mm) tires can be found for as low as approx $36 TOTAL for the pair including shipping to your door.
You have numerous brands and choices that can vary in the 27 inch (630mm) size.
YOU ONLY HAVE Kenda as the manufacturer of the 597mm tire for twenty-six SCHWINN wheel.
Ancient Schwinn electroforged lightweights are HEAVY but among the most durable bicycles ever built. If weight is not a significant factor, you cannot find a more practical, durable and comfortable, stable and predictable rider than a Chicago SCHWINN. They are also among the easiest for do-it-yourself servicing because everything was built with durability as the number one factor.
When you reach a bikeforums post number of ten posts or more, you are able to Post photos.
You should consider just commenting or replying to any threads-posts that you'd like to in any forums sub classifications here, even foo, or triathlon or whatever you feel like, in order to reach a post count of ten. You might fun doing that. Most all the folks here on bike forums are great, even if some are sometimes cranky geazers who bark like they woke up on the wrong side of the bed because they hate seeing thread discussions on common bicycles that anyone has the means to obtain. Don't pay them any mind as they don't know much about anything except barking........why they might think a thread discussion on any common-ordinary, or inexpensive bicycle would impact their elite status of owning an exclusive-expensive bicycle??? .....who knows.....
This is bikeforums and isn't called BikesWithPrestigeExclusivity-and Panache Forums.
Everybody should have fun riding and get outside more when time and weather permits and ride whatever style/type/configuration of bicycle and whatever type of riding or cruising makes them the happiest. Remember to wear a helmet as the old saying goes: "Don't Ride Without Wearing IT!".....because it can help you if crash or fall....not having one on your head when you crash and fall off might not be so good......................ultimately it is your decision.
Ride On.
Buy a new one for your kitchen, and use the old one to clean up the bike's wheels and handlebar chrome......or use a new one on the bike, but don't use the one you remove the rust with for kitchen pots....................I mean you could if you rinsed it out thoroughly, but it might be better to just leave that one for dirty jobs in the garage.........they are inexpensive enough. The Copper pot scrubber mesh thingy does the best overall job of cleaning Schwinn chrome. Use COMET cleanser(powder) or AJAX cleaner(powder)..................get an aluminum pie pan that is left over from any apple pie, cherry pie, blueberrry pie, or even patty labelle's-sweet potato pie..........could be from anything.......from a tv dinner, or even you could use the plastic container from a Stouffers microwaveable entree, or any disposable lid.....or whatever. YOU SIMPLY NEED SOMETHING DISPOSABLE THAT YOU CAN SPRINKLE AN ANT MOUND AMOUNT OF COMET POWDER ON TO and then WET that just enough to BE ABLE TO "DIP" the Copper Pot Scrubber into......................Once you do that, you scrub the surface...............The SCHWINN CHROME will clean up like new in most cases! (only when there is chrome loss due to severe rust...will it not do so.......in that case you'll see areas that will look nearly new and some areas where there is chrome loss)--------------------------------Typically for Southern Calif, there shouldn't be really serious rust, even if the bicycle was left outdoors for much of its life..................perhaps if it was in the path of the lawn sprinklers, or spent time outdoors somewhere else in the country where there is significant rainfall.
Anyway, you'll be surprised how well an old Schwinn will clean up............not just the chrome, but the factory paint is extremely durable as it is several coats..
GO SEE EXAMPLES on the C.A.B.E. (the c.a.b.e. forums...........classic antique bicycle exchange is where ordinary folks collect, celebrate, build, and ride, and sometimes restore mostly made in usa bicycles of yesterday............mostly bikes of little market resale value, but some that the cabers do celebrate...etc are highly valued in resale mkt even though those same bikes were common in the 1930's, 1940's, 1950's and early 1960's... Google: c.a.b.e. forums
You'll see examples of how they cleaned up old bikes. One thing that I did learn from someone's example there on the cabe, is that the product called MR CLEAN MAGIC ERASER will work wonders cleaning up the dirty decals on Sixties and Seventies era Schwinns.................for example the area surrounding VARSITY or *Schwinn*, might look dirty/muddy compared to the frame paint without the decal........using MAGIC ERASER will do alot to clean up..........just be careful not to use it so much on the worded script such that you lose any of the VARSITY or *Schwinn* letters.
If your dad's old 1971 Schwinn was for example a PARAMOUNT it would be worth a lot in resale dollar value. If it was a SPORTS TOURER or a SUPER SPORT it would have some resale value. If it was a boy's model STINGRAY or one of the boy's KRATE (stingray variant) models it would be worth a lot. There is not a great deal of interest in common widely sold Schwinn models other than the sixties and early seventies boy's STINGRAY models. The Schwinn bikes are deemed to heavy to be taken seriously by most folks today even if the ancient Schwinns are a more practical, better built choice for some of these folks that buy new city-bikes and hybrid cruisers weighing around 34 pounds...........which is not significantly less than an ancient Schwinn which weighs 38 to 41 pounds...........the ancient Schwinn is a better bike in both durability and ease of servicing and probably ride comfort too..........these old Schwinns have a longer wheelbase than most all bikes today and their relaxed frame angle geometry combined adds to the stability & comfortable ride.........the headtube (angle) and the frame's seat-tube (angle) are about paralell so that one can adjust the seatpost height to accomodate a wide variety of different sized folks---people of differing heights.............(THERE ARE ALSO MANY DIFFERENT FRAME SIZES THAT WERE OFFERED in both men's DIAMOND shaped frames and women's STEP-THRU frames) ****There are also many EXTRA LONG Schwinn 13/16" diameter seatposts made and offered by WALD today that are widely available and relatively inexpensive. This is largely due to the STINGRAY banana seat bike which required long seatposts.............The typical original factory Schwinn seatpost in a typical "LIGHTWEIGHT" electroforged SCHWINN is about 9 inches in length and 13/16 diameter with the top part where the seat mounts being 5/8 diameter. The 5/8 diameter top where the seat mounts was typically the standard for most all American bikes from the 1940's through the 1970's. Nobody makes a seat with the 5/8 seat clamp anymore. About forty years ago, 7/8 seat clamp size became the norm on ordinary bicycles, so the tops of the seat posts had 7/8 top since the 1980's. REPLACEMENT NEW SEATS such as you'll see at Walmart or Target or elsewhere will require a 7/8 top part of the seatpost in order to mount----OR---------you can Flip The Old Seatpost Upside Down provided that you have enough 13/16 post diameter down into the bike frame's seat-tube-----YOU CAN'T COUNT THE LENGHT OF THE 5/8 PORTION !!!................13/16" is only 1/16th slimmer than 7/8" so that you can tighten the new seat clamp down enough to account for this 1/16th difference without any problem. (you remember 4th grade math and fractions...right?......because 7/8 is equal to 14/16...............and the difference between 14/16 and 13/16 is equal to 1/16th.......)
Well, the new WALD replacement seatposts are typically around $15 or sometimes less from major online bikeshops and bikeparts sellers. You can find them in lengths such as 10.5 inches, 15.5 inches and around 19 inches for the longest and there are other lengths too.....each has a different part number..........some are available with chrome plating.....................they even make repro's with the 5/8 top too, but if you're gonna fit a seat that is newer than the seventies, you'll want the post with 7/8 top or just flip your existing seat post provided you've got enough 13/16 down in the seat-tube to be safe............ANOTHER way is to attach an antique 5/8 seat clamp to the new modern seat, assuming it accepts that style of clamp
Tires and tubes are readily available for ancient Chicago Schwinn electroforged classics. Kenda makes the 597mm 26 x 1 3/8 37-597mm tire that the COLLEGIATE/SPEEDSTER/RACER/BREEZE/TRAVELER and other differing named variants from about 1950 through 1981/1982 when Schwinn left Chicago and was bound for newOrleans...actually Mississippi but I'm borrowing ZZtop's lyrics.....
On the "lightweights" with the 597mm bead seat diameter S5 and S6 twenty six rims of 597mm.......YOU MUST USE THE Kenda 597mm tires!!!!
The common 590mm 26 x 1 3/8 tires WILL NOT WORK ON Schwinn rims WHICH REQUIRE THE 597mm 26 x 1 3/8 tires.
As for the 27 x 1 1/4 630mm bead seat diameter rims as SEEN ON mid sixties onward VARSITY, SUBURBAN, CONTINENTAL etc.
These tires are very common. ALTHOUGH NO LOCAL BIKE SHOP WILL LIKELY STOCK THEM, YOU CAN EASILY OBTAIN THEM FROM ANY ONE OF MANY MAJOR ONLINE BIKE SHOPS AND BIKE PARTS SUPPLIERS. There is still at least a half dozen different manufacturers making the 32--630mm tire 27 x 1 1/4.
NEITHER tire is expensive. You can ALWAYS FIND new tires for approx $20 each TOTAL including the shipping to your door. A set of two NEW 27 inch (630mm) tires can be found for as low as approx $36 TOTAL for the pair including shipping to your door.
You have numerous brands and choices that can vary in the 27 inch (630mm) size.
YOU ONLY HAVE Kenda as the manufacturer of the 597mm tire for twenty-six SCHWINN wheel.
Ancient Schwinn electroforged lightweights are HEAVY but among the most durable bicycles ever built. If weight is not a significant factor, you cannot find a more practical, durable and comfortable, stable and predictable rider than a Chicago SCHWINN. They are also among the easiest for do-it-yourself servicing because everything was built with durability as the number one factor.
When you reach a bikeforums post number of ten posts or more, you are able to Post photos.
You should consider just commenting or replying to any threads-posts that you'd like to in any forums sub classifications here, even foo, or triathlon or whatever you feel like, in order to reach a post count of ten. You might fun doing that. Most all the folks here on bike forums are great, even if some are sometimes cranky geazers who bark like they woke up on the wrong side of the bed because they hate seeing thread discussions on common bicycles that anyone has the means to obtain. Don't pay them any mind as they don't know much about anything except barking........why they might think a thread discussion on any common-ordinary, or inexpensive bicycle would impact their elite status of owning an exclusive-expensive bicycle??? .....who knows.....
This is bikeforums and isn't called BikesWithPrestigeExclusivity-and Panache Forums.
Everybody should have fun riding and get outside more when time and weather permits and ride whatever style/type/configuration of bicycle and whatever type of riding or cruising makes them the happiest. Remember to wear a helmet as the old saying goes: "Don't Ride Without Wearing IT!".....because it can help you if crash or fall....not having one on your head when you crash and fall off might not be so good......................ultimately it is your decision.
Ride On.
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