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1974 Paramount

Old 11-03-18, 06:07 PM
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CharlesTBetz
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1974 Paramount

This is the last of the James Johnson collection. Serial # B7404, which (per this site) would seem to indicate February of 1974.

Frame: 20" Chestnut Flek. Have original touch up paint, still liquid!

Have had a pro look it over and re-install the brake levers (removed for some reason - he probably was going to retape handlebars and got a new bike instead). Pro indicated it was in very good shape, hadn't been ridden that much. Paint seems to support low usage as well. I think he spent a lot more time on the Mondial and then the Kvale.

I have avoided over-cleaning the bike, I prefer to let the buyer do that.

Shifters: Suntour but have original Campagnolo levers - not sure why he switched. Not sure I have all the other components of the Campy levers, have to look through various parts bins.
Front derailleur: Campagnolo
Rear derailleur: Campagnolo
Brake levers: Campagnolo
Handlbars & stem: Cinelli
Headset: Campagnolo
Brakes: Campagnolo
Rims: Super Champion
Hubs: Campagnolo
Crank: Campagnolo
Axle: Campagnolo
Front sprocket: Campagnolo
Pedals: Campagnolo
Seat post: Campagnolo
Seat: Avocet
Tires: Continental Supersport Ultra

Thoughts on a reasonable asking price? Shipping doesn't bother me, there's a good service here for that.








Last edited by CharlesTBetz; 11-03-18 at 06:52 PM.
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Old 11-03-18, 06:31 PM
  #2  
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It is missing the original saddle and I would definitely reinstall the original shifters. The biggest issue is the very small frame size, probably only 20", which would limit the market. For those reasons I'd put the value at ~$750.
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Old 11-03-18, 06:53 PM
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CharlesTBetz
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By any chance could this be the original saddle? If not, what should I be looking for?
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Old 11-03-18, 06:55 PM
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As Metacortex said, I'd put the Campy shifters back on and wrap the bars. Some of the areas look like either finish damage or heavy dirt; some minor cleaning would give buyers a better idea of what's what's.

Size is going to affect the value, at that size it will most likely appeal most to women. If what looks like finish wear is just dirt and grime and depending on your local market, I'd estimate from $800 - $900.
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Old 11-03-18, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by CharlesTBetz View Post
By any chance could this be the original saddle? If not, what should I be looking for?
Brooks Professional or Unicanitor.
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Old 11-03-18, 07:11 PM
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Small size cuts both ways in my experience. Limited market of buyers looking for that size, but very limited supply too. So overall, no impact to value to a slight push upward.

As it sits, sold on line, $700. Sold locally, less, depends where you live. With an era correct Brooks Pro saddle AND proper Campy shifters AND nice bar tape AND thoroughly cleaned = $1000.
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Old 11-04-18, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Kactus View Post
As Metacortex said, I'd put the Campy shifters back on and wrap the bars. Some of the areas look like either finish damage or heavy dirt; some minor cleaning would give buyers a better idea of what's what's.

Size is going to affect the value, at that size it will most likely appeal most to women. If what looks like finish wear is just dirt and grime and depending on your local market, I'd estimate from $800 - $900.
And who else has a blackbelt in shopping?
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Old 11-04-18, 01:38 PM
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A Pro put those brake levers on and mounted the cables like that?.... I think not a pro.
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Old 11-04-18, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by trailangel View Post
A Pro put those brake levers on and mounted the cables like that?.... I think not a pro.
agreed
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Old 11-04-18, 02:34 PM
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Yes, and I might add nobody ever routes the rear brake cable on the top tube like that. Your knees will find out why, or should I say the lack of skin on your knees......

Last edited by trailangel; 11-04-18 at 06:14 PM.
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Old 11-04-18, 04:26 PM
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So what, sell it as is. Some of you go off the deep end on here with your commentary. A pro probably didn't put them on there, like you guys.....
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Old 11-04-18, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by trailangel View Post
Yes, and I might add nobody ever routes the rear brake cable on the top tube like that. Your knees will find out why, or should I say the lack of skin on your knees......
Yeah, I wasn't super thrilled with him for other reasons. Nuances of brake cable routing aren't my thing, good to know.
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Old 11-04-18, 07:02 PM
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Though not much of a Schwinn fan, that is a nice example of the mark. The small size means a smaller potential market, but patience, I have learned, over the years can combat that. And, as for the position of the brake levers, it is, most likely, impossible to tell. That said, I am not pro but this is how I am setting my bikes up, these days...


Though not the conventional way to do it, I am old with diminished strength and flexibility. If I ride old school brake levers on the hoods, it is often hard for me to pull the brake levers hard enough to inspire confidence. If I have the levers set up for hood riding, then it is darn near impossible to actuate the brake levers from the drop position. So, I have been trying different things.

My guess, with the OP's bike, is that it was owned by a smaller person, with small hands and, perhaps, limited strength. Hence, in my mind, the lever position might be a product of necessity.

Of course, it is also possible that the builder did not have a clue but that seems a bit unusual to me.
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Old 11-04-18, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by randyjawa View Post
Though not much of a Schwinn fan, that is a nice example of the mark. The small size means a smaller potential market, but patience, I have learned, over the years can combat that. And, as for the position of the brake levers, it is, most likely, impossible to tell. That said, I am not pro but this is how I am setting my bikes up, these days...
Though not the conventional way to do it, I am old with diminished strength and flexibility. If I ride old school brake levers on the hoods, it is often hard for me to pull the brake levers hard enough to inspire confidence. If I have the levers set up for hood riding, then it is darn near impossible to actuate the brake levers from the drop position. So, I have been trying different things.

My guess, with the OP's bike, is that it was owned by a smaller person, with small hands and, perhaps, limited strength. Hence, in my mind, the lever position might be a product of necessity.

Of course, it is also possible that the builder did not have a clue but that seems a bit unusual to me.
Good point. I've never judged a bike by the way it is set up. Of course, I'm 6' 2" with a 6' 8" wingspan. Very few people set their bikes up like I do. Most anything I get is re-jiggered if I want to ride it, and after years of riding and setting them up, I know precisely what I want to do.

It can affect resale value, however. Not everyone wants 120 mm technomic stems and 46 cm wide bars. Or levers for smaller hands. I think we ought understand that.
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