Vintage hubs on tubulars? Cut out the hubs?
I have reached the realization that I need to sell off some wheels "sets". I have maybe 20 sets of vintage. I say "sets" b/c some have mismatched rims. Nearly all are tubulars with 70s and 80s hubs. The market on CL for vintage stuff in my area is dead; very few buyers. The other options are here on Bike Forums and ebay. With the cost of shipping, I think demand would be weak. The hubs I have are low flange Campy Record (nuovo record(?) possibly) and Mavic. Many, or most, of the tubular rims are anonized that brownish color and show wear from breaking.
So, before I start cutting out hubs, what is the best way to approach to decide which are sellable as complete laced wheels, and which should have the hubs removed? I truly hate to wreck goods wheels, but if there is a very limited market for tubulars with rims that should wear (plus packaging and shipping) it seems like the only option is to remove the hubs. (FYI I am getting heat from Domestic Management to clean up the garage situation.) Is there any interest/demand for tubulars from the 70s/80s, or do they need to be pristine, and therefore trying to sell them as complete/laced wheels is a pipe dream? |
In my experience, trying to sell vintage tubular wheelsets is an exercise in frustration. Can't give 'em away.
On the other hand, there is an active eBay market for nice hubs, particularly Campagnolo Record hubs, either low or high flange. I'd use a heavy duty clipper to cut the spokes and spend my time polishing and servicing the hubs to sell. |
Are the spokes and nipples fairly good if so delacaing may be a way to go a nice vintage spoke set will go for $20-25 and fit in a USPS flat rate padded envelope with room for the hub and skewer. I have sold a couple of wheels basically sans tubi hoops this way for $40-50.
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Originally Posted by zukahn1
(Post 20982201)
Are the spokes and nipples fairly good if so delacaing may be a way to go a nice vintage spoke set will go for $20-25 and fit in a USPS flat rate padded envelope with room for the hub and skewer. I have sold a couple of wheels basically sans tubi hoops this way for $40-50.
I have a truing stand and may even find use for the spokes myself in the future; I'll just use some painters tape and rap them together for the future. |
What all do you have? Not that I'm in the market, but you never know what someone might want before you start cuttin'.
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don't forget to take off the freewheel first
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I use bolt cutters for two jobs: cutting old rusty chain and rescuing hubs. I will sometimes save stainless spikes.
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I find that it's easier to get the final cone adjustments "just right" when overhauling hubs that are still built up as wheels.
I'd cut spokes or dismantle after the overhaul to clean and polish the exterior of the hubs before offering for sale as "fully serviced". don't forget to take off the freewheel first |
Originally Posted by rccardr
(Post 20982108)
In my experience, trying to sell vintage tubular wheelsets is an exercise in frustration. Can't give 'em away.
On the other hand, there is an active eBay market for nice hubs, particularly Campagnolo Record hubs, either low or high flange. I'd use a heavy duty clipper to cut the spokes and spend my time polishing and servicing the hubs to sell.
Originally Posted by unterhausen
(Post 20982259)
don't forget to take off the freewheel first
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Yeah, pretty much nobody wants older tubular wheels.
+1 remove the freewheels first, they are super difficult to remove once the hub is separated from the rim. Also I wouldn't bother saving the spokes unless they are somehow really nice. That's a lot more work. |
Originally Posted by Bandera
(Post 20982654)
I find that it's easier to get the final cone adjustments "just right" when overhauling hubs that are still built up as wheels.
I'd cut spokes or dismantle after the overhaul to clean and polish the exterior of the hubs before offering for sale as "fully serviced". |
I've never understood why people are so quick to recommend cutting out spokes. Guess it feels like being a real pro paid-by-the-job mechanic, where brute force always trumps finesse.
Stainless spokes, if undamaged at the bend (and most are undamaged), are good for any number of (properly tensioned) wheel builds. And the difference in time between cutting spokes (and then pulling them out of the hub and then out of the rim) and removing the spokes one by one is inconsequential; maybe 3 minutes difference per wheel, if that. |
Actually I am looking for something FreewheelSuntour Winner Pro, 7 Cogs, 12-21, RimsAraya Pro Staff, Super Hard Anodized, 32 Holes
75 Brazed On HubsSuntour Superbe Pro, Sealed if you have both send me a message |
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