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1995 Giant Sedona

Old 10-10-20, 01:15 PM
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Celeste Mike
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1995 Giant Sedona

I bought this bike for the full STX group. I figured I'd part the rest of it out and recoup most of my money. So I'm wondering what I should ask for the frameset (w/ bb and headset). And since I'm posting this thread I may as well get an appraisal of the whole thing to see how good or bad of a deal I got. It's mostly original except for crappy replacement wheels, and included the original wheelset (of which it seems just the rims are worn out).

Here's the kicker, and I didn't realize this until I got it home. It has a homemade shim shoved into the seat tube to accept the wrong size seat post. 🤦🏻‍♂️ It reaches 9" down into the seat tube. I'm not optimistic about its removal but I'll see what I can do. Suggestions welcome.










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Old 10-10-20, 01:17 PM
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Some more photos:










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Old 10-11-20, 05:27 AM
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Is it a homemade shim or the old (stuck) seatpost simply sawed off? Lots will pooh pooh it but aside from the small chainrings I liked the STX kit.

Why not keep the BB to use on your next project? Is is bad?
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Old 10-11-20, 09:54 AM
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I believe BG is correct about it being a sawn off seat post. First you can see the smear of the some of the seat post aluminum and the yellow hacksaw blade paint on the top of the seat lug. Second, the cinch slot hasn't been cut down as far as the stress relief hole of the frame's cinch slot. Going on the assumption that there is a seized seat post in the frame, I see little value in the frameset. If I needed the parts for an other project, I would probably have offered about $50 for the bicycle. Mid-1980s STX was a decent group for it's price point, which was typically bicycles around $500.
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Old 10-11-20, 10:49 AM
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Steel frame, alloy seat post jammed in there...If all brute force, mechanical and heat related options fail, there is a chemical option with caustic soda. Not very pleasant to use, gives off a toxic vapour so never use indoors, produces hydrogen so no naked flames / smoking anywhere near this operation, high corrosive so don't let it get on your skin or in your eyes. If you go down this route do some research first. Carry out this procedure at your own risk...I'd pretty much call this an action of last resort...

Long blade cutting method:

These links are an example of a non-professional home mechanic / bodger carrying out chemical seat post removals:
Don't wear shorts....

AT YOUR OWN RISK...!

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Old 10-11-20, 03:43 PM
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Not to mention, the frame is aluminium? Which means some of the chemical ways to remove the seatposts would remove the whole seattube.
(edit: Sorry, nevermind. Checked the pictures again, it must be the RD hanger that made me think it was alu.)
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Old 10-11-20, 05:24 PM
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^ that had me doing a triple take too
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Old 10-11-20, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Bianchigirll View Post
Is it a homemade shim or the old (stuck) seatpost simply sawed off?
Ahh, of course. Should've realized it was a sawed off seat post.

Originally Posted by Bianchigirll View Post
Why not keep the BB to use on your next project? Is is bad?
I just figured it'd be easier to sell the frameset with a bb in it, and the frame I wanted the STX for already has a bb. ...But now that frame has been lost in the mail on its way to me, so this whole project is off to a great start.

I paid $70 for this, which I guess woulda been fine if not for the stuck seat post. I regret buying this thing. So dumb.
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Old 10-11-20, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob the Mech View Post
Steel frame, alloy seat post jammed in there...If all brute force, mechanical and heat related options fail, there is a chemical option with caustic soda. Not very pleasant to use, gives off a toxic vapour so never use indoors, produces hydrogen so no naked flames / smoking anywhere near this operation, high corrosive so don't let it get on your skin or in your eyes. If you go down this route do some research first. Carry out this procedure at your own risk...I'd pretty much call this an action of last resort...
Was thinking about putting a sawzall blade in there to segment it, and then spray more PB Blaster... Extra unfortunate that there's nothing to grab onto though. Not tryna mess with the chemicals.
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Old 10-12-20, 06:48 AM
  #10  
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There's a wee little bit to grab onto, right side, toward the back. Try spreading the seat tube again, and see if you can grab that bit of the shim with a vise-grip at the same time, and with the seat tube spread, try pulling up on the shim, see if it moves at all.

Or if nothing else, after you segment it down with the recip / hack blade, you can spread the tube again, and get a screwdriver in that space between the shim and the tube.
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Old 10-12-20, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Celeste Mike View Post
Was thinking about putting a sawzall blade in there to segment it, and then spray more PB Blaster... Extra unfortunate that there's nothing to grab onto though. Not tryna mess with the chemicals.
yep, a real shame the original owner really did a number on that seat post. The chemical approach is nasty, Probably take the paint off too.
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Old 10-14-20, 02:22 PM
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I've made cuts inside the stuck seat post and sprayed PB Blaster inside liberally. Gonna let it set for a bit. IF I were to get the seat post out what could I reasonably sell the frameset for? And is a frameset an easier sell if it has a headset and bottom bracket, or should I just part it out completely? (Save for any bits I wanna keep.)
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Old 10-15-20, 10:44 PM
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In my market, I'd list that Giant Sedona frame w/ fork for $40 and maybe take $20. It's not a sought after model, and in my experience, buyers that know how to build bikes are looking for nicer frames. The BB and headset I'd include to help it sell faster, I wouldn't charge extra for them. Maybe start at $50 and lower the price slowly every few weeks.

Selling on eBay would return better results, even selling just the fork, but requires more work and it may take awhile.

Last edited by katsup; 10-15-20 at 10:50 PM.
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