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Any info please?

Old 11-08-20, 09:21 AM
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Thruhiker 
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Any info please?

I picked this Raleigh up for 25 dollars. I have no idea what it is. I enjoy working on bikes and this is my first real vintage project. It's a 3 speed sturmey archer hub. Chain guard says raleigh sports. Top tube says made in England. Any idea on the year it was made? The brooks saddle is way too far gone to be saved and theres a bit of surface rust and tires are shot. It has cottered cranks all the bolts and cap nuts have R on them. Curious about the year it's worth or anything else you want to share. I'm intending to fix it up for myself. It seems to shift but if not I might just replace the hub with a single speed. I've never worked on an internal gear hub before. Are they serviceable. Thanks every one. I just got it this morning on the way back from getting coffee and now I have to go to work. Maybe I should call in sick








* cottered cranks

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Old 11-08-20, 09:27 AM
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Look for a date code on the 3 speed hub.

Also, ton of info on these here.

For the love of English 3 speeds...
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Old 11-08-20, 09:44 AM
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Looks like an early to mid-70s Raleigh Sports. It appears to be in decent condition; should make a nice city bike.
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Old 11-08-20, 09:55 AM
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A 22” frame as well, nice for sizing. The brake moderator and absence of the 6 tines on the crank all point to a 72-73 or more modern model year. Check the hub for date, two numbers as was said earlier.

Nice colour for driver awareness! Make sure you anchor the rear fender down at the BB. Also grease the bearings and check for damage done by the clamp kickstand.
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Old 11-08-20, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by 3speedslow View Post
A 22” frame as well, nice for sizing. The brake moderator and absence of the 6 tines on the crank all point to a 72-73 or more modern model year. Check the hub for date, two numbers as was said earlier.

Nice colour for driver awareness! Make sure you anchor the rear fender down at the BB. Also grease the bearings and check for damage done by the clamp kickstand.
The "brake moderator" is actually an automatic self adjuster, notice that there is no adjustment barrel on the brake caliper.

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Old 11-08-20, 10:07 AM
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Thanks for the info so far guys. So it does it have a model name? Or is it just a Raleigh 3 spd? I'm at work now and cant check much before my original post I did a breif search but everything seemed to have a model name.
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Old 11-08-20, 10:16 AM
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The model name is on the chainguard
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Old 11-08-20, 10:16 AM
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Sports is the model. Those style brake levers (which are pretty awful) appeared for just a couple of years, 74 & 75, iirc. Date code on the rear hub, assuming that wheel is original, will tell you for sure.
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Old 11-08-20, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Thruhiker View Post
Thanks for the info so far guys. So it does it have a model name? Or is it just a Raleigh 3 spd? I'm at work now and cant check much before my original post I did a breif search but everything seemed to have a model name.
The Model name is Raleigh Sports. They were made for several decades with that name.
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Old 11-08-20, 02:23 PM
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Just like my 1975 Sports. I searched for a couple years before finding a yellow one. Fun classic ride.
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Old 11-08-20, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Thruhiker View Post
Curious about...it's worth...
Thread moved from C&V to C&V Appraisals.
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Old 11-10-20, 11:10 PM
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Looks like you can JUST make out a "76" on the hub.
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Old 11-11-20, 10:48 AM
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...there are a gajillion tutorials on the internet now on servicing SA 3 speed AW hubs. Here is one, but there is abundant information. It's a much better choice for a city bike than a coaster brake, single speed hub. I notice the Frederick, MD registration sticker. in the 1970's bike boom, when everyone and his uncle was buying a new fangled, derailleur, 10 speed bike, those same people n Washington DC and suburban Maryland were all giving their Raleigh 3 speeds to the Goodwill and Salvation Army. Those bikes got me all the way through my college years at the U Md College Park.

They are great transportation, and thee was a pretty good chance my bike would still be where I parked it when I went to ride home.

The general rule on servicing is to just ad a half teaspoon of 20 weight oil every now and then (through the oil port) if it is working well. If it starts to stick or skip or miss shifts, flush it with kerosene and then relube and adjust. If you still have an issue after that, take it apart and clean everything, reassemble (replace worn parts like the clutch thingy), add oil and go. They pretty much last forever.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-0w-8aUGU0
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Old 11-11-20, 01:26 PM
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3alamer thanks for the link. I'm looking forward to working on it. Ordered tires for it so waiting on them (26x1⅜) in the meantime I'll replace the wheel and headset bearings. There was 2 broken spokes but replaced them already. Good eye on spotting the registration sticker. I been meaning to try to research that. I'm not sure what they were for. In some citys did bikes have to be registered in the 70s? ( I wasnt born till 81) Also the hub is marked 74 so I guess that's the year it was made.
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Old 11-11-20, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Thruhiker View Post
3alamer thanks for the link. I'm looking forward to working on it. Ordered tires for it so waiting on them (26x1⅜) in the meantime I'll replace the wheel and headset bearings. There was 2 broken spokes but replaced them already. Good eye on spotting the registration sticker. I been meaning to try to research that. I'm not sure what they were for. In some citys did bikes have to be registered in the 70s? ( I wasnt born till 81) Also the hub is marked 74 so I guess that's the year it was made.
Here in California it was required through the seventies although I rarely did any of mine and never got hassled. It cost a couple of bucks and they would take down the serial # of the bike.
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