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Trek 1200 ('87 OR '88 ?)

Old 12-11-09, 04:42 PM
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r.gar
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Trek 1200 ('87 OR '88 ?)

I got this bike from a nearby thrift store, can't find a serial number on the frame but the bike is equipped as follows:
-58cm Trek 1200 Aluminum Frame
-Suntour Sprint 9000 derailleurs front and back (7 speed indexed)
-Sakae FX Cranks
-Dia Compe Grand Compe brakes
-Sakae stem and seatpost
-San Marco saddle
-no-name 6 speed rear cassette

the bike has several scatches but no dents, can anyone tell me what year it might be or what it's rough value might be in its current state ? Any help is appreciated
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Old 12-11-09, 05:06 PM
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87. http://www.vintage-trek.com/images/t...rekCatalog.pdf

(and the saddle is not original, but you knew that probably).

The 1200 was the entry model for aluminum bikes for Trek. Back then, aluminum bikes were more sought after than steel bikes, the opposite is true now. I think that if you add some nice white handlebar tape and make sure that everything is working as it supposed to work (the blue tires are a nice touch, btw), you could probably get $200 or so now (since it is not riding season in Utah). If you wait until spring, maybe an extra $100. I really base that on what equivalent Cannondales (SR600 and SR700) sell for.

Last edited by EjustE; 12-11-09 at 05:10 PM.
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Old 12-11-09, 05:38 PM
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abarth
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Sold a 1500 in yellow and blue over last summer for $280. The component was not original, it has 105 index 14 speed.

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Old 12-11-09, 06:58 PM
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E's right there. The 1200 was a decent frame, and light for the time, still a pretty good frame. $200-$300 intact and in good shape, ready to ride. $200 here in NC, more if the size is right and the tires/wrap/saddle are excellent and the pedals are clipless.

I gave away one of those to a kid whose bike was stolen. Nice guy on BF, and he built it up right away, rides it all the time.
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Old 12-11-09, 07:50 PM
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You'll be able to sell it to someone who is trying to get into road biking for cheap. You'll have difficulty focusing on the vintage market or hipsters cause it's not a good candidate for fixing. Index shifting is one of the reasons it will sell at $200. Robbie is right. If you try to get much more than $200 around here you'll be smacking into the brifter bike market that begins at about $300 for Sora equiipped bikes.
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Old 12-11-09, 09:40 PM
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Valuation greatly depends on condition, not just paint chips and scratches either. What do the tires look like? Cables? Bearings? In order to get $200 to $250 for it, it needs to be super clean and ready to ride. If it needs work, then it quickly becomes a project. I bought a similar bike recently that was a project, it lingered on C/L for several days at the $60 price level. Indexing didn't work (a simple adjustment and it was good to go), needed cables, bb needed to be rebuilt, needed new bar tape, and general cleanup. Taking care of these discrepancies is not difficult or expensive (as long as you do the work yourself).

+1 Older aluminum frames do not have the marketability of a similar era steel frame. Ditto early era Suntour indexed components. Many buyers would prefer Shimano. As a minimum, it needs a Suntour 7 speed cassette.

What is going on with the sticker on the down tube?

Also looks like something not original on the seat tube.

To me, the bike is not in ready to ride condition. But with a little TLC, it could be there! Ready to ride is where the financial reward kicks in.

Last edited by wrk101; 12-11-09 at 09:48 PM.
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Old 12-11-09, 11:11 PM
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Thank you for all your info, and aside from handlebar tape, a few stickers that need to be removed, and some shifter cables to replace this baby will be able to move on to it's next owner to enjoy.
Out of curiosity, would there be any upside in replacing the cassette from the existing 6 speed to a 7 from a selling standpoint or would I just break even ?
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Old 12-11-09, 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by r.gar View Post
Out of curiosity, would there be any upside in replacing the cassette from the existing 6 speed to a 7 from a selling standpoint or would I just break even ?
(and Bill will correct me if I am wrong ) but... there is not much upside in doing that and no, you will not brake even because you at least would need to replace the rear derailleur and adjust the whole shifting system (minimum). My motto is: if it works, let it be (unless it is a keeper and you need to make changes because they suit you better).
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