koz32

Hey I was wondering if any would be able to tell me anything about a bike I found on craigslist. The bike is unmarked and looks rather new, but it does have downtube shifters. I offered the owner $70 and he accepted. I realize the bike is probably nothing special, but is it worth it at $100? OSU student looking for a bike to commute on. Thanks for any help.

-Matt

https://columbus.craigslist.org/bik/3293784030.html

Bianchigirll 

Not enough detail to make any firm decision but it looks like a lowerend bike, wheter a lowend bike shop bike or a better department store bike I can't tell. If it fits and is ready to ride $100 might be a OK deal.

koz32

I contacted the owner and he said it there's a badge on it with the word "premium" on it. Whether this is the model name or just some standard markings I don't know. "Look" may be a part of the name as well. The owner painted the bike black. Originally green.

koz32

Would the downtube shifters indicate that it's an older bike or do they still produce bikes with that kind of system?

IthaDan 

They still do produce bikes with DT shifters, the lowest end of fuji's newest line has DT shifters.

The biggest indicators of the age are the cottered cranks (the little 't' near their pivot, google it if you're still confused) and the non-aero levers. It was near the end of the 80s when aero levers (brake cables running UNDER the handlebar tape) trickled down to the lowest of the low end.

As far as the tier of bike, there are visual clues there as well- the seatpost isn't an integrated clamp post, rather it has the 'guts' that are universal across tubing sizes, the aforementioned cottered cranks, the spoke protector ('dork' disc) and the hoodless (no rubber to act as a grip) brake levers are the biggest clues.

Now, if you had a picture of the OTHER side of the bike, we could probably identify it.

I'll echo BG, $100 is probably OK, and there have been some modernizations, the gary fisher seat and the powdercoated (or have they just been rattlecanned white? are they even painted, or is that a white balance issue?) wheels are certainly not OEM.

This time of year, if the bike fits, and this will be your only bike to get you out before snow starts flying around, I say go for it, you could probably save $30 on a similar bike, but you'd miss all that riding time.

koz32

Yea it's already pretty late in the season and walking to class is a hassle. I offered the owner $70 and he said he'd sell it. So if it fits right and rides nice and I'm gonna be purchasing it tomorrow.

Appreciate the help,
Matt

FastJake

If it fits and you are just looking for something to commute on, do it. There isn't much available in the $70 range. It's a low end bike for sure but looks pretty rideable.

T-Mar

Steel cottered crankset, centerpull brakeset and large flange hubs are typical of early 1970s, entry level models. I suspect the condidtion may not be the greateset from I can see. It's appears to be a repaint and based on the black headset, they didn't even bother to remove the fork. The handlebar tape is a mess. The brake lever position is totally impractical. The front derailleur cable has been replaced using full length housing. The rear brake cable stop is at too high an angle, causing the a sharp bend in the cable at the exit point. It's pretty obvious the owner doesn't have a clue about bicycles. I'd pass, unless you're mechanically competent with bicycles.

koz32

The bars I can get retaped, but how much of a hassle would it be to reposition the brake levers? And what effect does the brake cable angle have on the bike? I wouldn't mind putting some work into the bike and at $70 it doesn't seem like too huge of an investment.

-Matt

lostarchitect 

When you have the tape off, it will take you 2 minutes to move the levers. All you will need is a screwdriver (or maybe a hex wrench, but probably just a screwdriver.) When you squeeze the handles forward, look inside the body of the lever. There's a screw down there, which is what tightens the metal band around the bars. Loosen it, move the levers, retighten it. That's it.

Typically, the ends of the levers should be in line with the end of the bars, like this: