Bomb Raleighs, fix or diss?
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Bomb Raleighs, fix or diss?
Got these two Raleighs at $180 each a while back. I will now explain the problems with them:
Brown
When shifted to second, the chain(I think) doesn't actually grab at all, so you are peddling into thin air.
Brakes scream like a banshee.
When you go over a bump, it shifts itself.
Black
Same as the brown one, shifts when you go over a bump, usually from 1st to 2nd.
I have slowly realized I probably overpaid a lot for them. Recently tried to sell them but no luck so far.
Had the idea of turning the black into a project, replacing the wheels and slapping a derailleur on it. Curious if the frame on these is worth it. They are both Raleigh Sports btw.
Also advice would be awesome.

Brown
When shifted to second, the chain(I think) doesn't actually grab at all, so you are peddling into thin air.
Brakes scream like a banshee.
When you go over a bump, it shifts itself.
Black
Same as the brown one, shifts when you go over a bump, usually from 1st to 2nd.
I have slowly realized I probably overpaid a lot for them. Recently tried to sell them but no luck so far.
Had the idea of turning the black into a project, replacing the wheels and slapping a derailleur on it. Curious if the frame on these is worth it. They are both Raleigh Sports btw.
Also advice would be awesome.
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Both these nice three speeds are worth close to what you paid for them. The slight shift problem can be corrected somewhat by oiling the hubs and adjsuting the shift cables. Yet the occasional bumb shift from vintage 3speed is pretty typicaly no big deal shouldn't hurt value. Whatever you do don't change these to shifter bikes it would wreck them making them almost worthless.
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Both these nice three speeds are worth close to what you paid for them. The slight shift problem can be corrected somewhat by oiling the hubs and adjsuting the shift cables. Yet the occasional bumb shift from vintage 3speed is pretty typicaly no big deal shouldn't hurt value. Whatever you do don't change these to shifter bikes it would wreck them making them almost worthless.
Any advice on how to fix the brown not working in 2nd?
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Well on a rough not right SA hub to get to second you over shift two third when riding then back to get to second.
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AIRC, on Sturmey-Archer 3-speeds there is a neutral position in between 2nd and 3rd gears. So it sounds as if your cable is misadjusted. There should be an adjustment bolt and nut located at the hub end of the cable, where the chain coming out of the hub attaches to the cable. Turn that to make the cable tighter until the gears work properly.
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I couldn't tell where you lived - if it was close to Dayton Ohio.
I would be interested in the black bike as a winter project if you were close enough.
I do not have a 3 speed. The price and value probably doesn't warrant shipping costs.
There are vintage 3 speed tour events in Ohio that I have always wanted to participate in.
I would be interested in the black bike as a winter project if you were close enough.
I do not have a 3 speed. The price and value probably doesn't warrant shipping costs.
There are vintage 3 speed tour events in Ohio that I have always wanted to participate in.
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Best place to start learning about fixing/maintaining/adjusting your bikes:
https://sheldonbrown.com/english-3.html
https://sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer.html
For the bike that is not shifting into second:
1. Adjust the cable correctly.
2. Add oil (there is a port in the middle ofthe rear hub.) Use light weight petroleum gear oil. Do NOT use the regular 3 in 1 oil (you can us this brand if it says “petroleum” on it.)
3. Ride it and shift a lot. Be prepared for it to free wheel in second (like it does now.) After a few mile the oil should work its way around in the mechanism and free up the stuck parts are preventing it from engaging second gear.
For the brakes that scream like a bansee, get a new frontwheel with an aluminum alloy rim, like this:
https://www.google.com/#q=26x1-3%2F8+Front+Alloy&tbm=shop
(26 x 1-3/8 wheel size also known as ISO 590 mm, 650A, and E.A.3: https://sheldonbrown.com/26.html)
An alloy rim will make the bike feel livelier and will reduce stopping distance (especially in the rain.) There are benefits to replacing the real wheel too, but the biggest cost/benefit ratio is with the front wheel.
If the brake still squeal with an aluminum rim, Google can help you find other fixes to try.
Raleigh Sports are like Model T Fords; you can keep them running for ever if you are constantly fiddling with them.
https://sheldonbrown.com/english-3.html
https://sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer.html
For the bike that is not shifting into second:
1. Adjust the cable correctly.
2. Add oil (there is a port in the middle ofthe rear hub.) Use light weight petroleum gear oil. Do NOT use the regular 3 in 1 oil (you can us this brand if it says “petroleum” on it.)
3. Ride it and shift a lot. Be prepared for it to free wheel in second (like it does now.) After a few mile the oil should work its way around in the mechanism and free up the stuck parts are preventing it from engaging second gear.
For the brakes that scream like a bansee, get a new frontwheel with an aluminum alloy rim, like this:
https://www.google.com/#q=26x1-3%2F8+Front+Alloy&tbm=shop
(26 x 1-3/8 wheel size also known as ISO 590 mm, 650A, and E.A.3: https://sheldonbrown.com/26.html)
An alloy rim will make the bike feel livelier and will reduce stopping distance (especially in the rain.) There are benefits to replacing the real wheel too, but the biggest cost/benefit ratio is with the front wheel.
If the brake still squeal with an aluminum rim, Google can help you find other fixes to try.
Raleigh Sports are like Model T Fords; you can keep them running for ever if you are constantly fiddling with them.
Last edited by 0.2HP; 10-06-13 at 10:12 AM.
#9
Still learning
New Diacompe grey matter brake shoes for $9 for at Amazon.
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I live in San Francisco, so it is up to you.
Looks like a really good place to start. Thanks for the help.
Problem is I do not really have the space nor the time to fix these bikes. Was hoping to sell them for at least equal to what I paid, SF is a pretty hot market I think.
What would be the best method for cleaning the frame? Not exactly sure if it is actual rust or oxidation. Never bothered cleaning it after I bought it, thats how little time I have.
Problem is I do not really have the space nor the time to fix these bikes. Was hoping to sell them for at least equal to what I paid, SF is a pretty hot market I think.
What would be the best method for cleaning the frame? Not exactly sure if it is actual rust or oxidation. Never bothered cleaning it after I bought it, thats how little time I have.
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