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Stock 1983 Fuji Royale II - 59cm

Old 04-16-14, 05:45 PM
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d4rks4int
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Stock 1983 Fuji Royale II - 59cm

Hey friendly people, a quick price check on the following CL ad would great, as would overall impressions and thoughts on the bike:

https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/4425705110.html

Copy/pasted from link:

59cm Fuji Royale 2 made from Fuji's own 1769 Valite quadruple-butted steel tubing.

Crown and fork made of Hi-ten steel

Nitto Young alloy stem

Nitto Olympiad B114 alloy bar

12 speed Suntour Deraileure set includes an ARX front, Suntour V rear, and Suntour bar end shifters

Sugino GT 42x52T170mm Cranks - Excellent condition with Sugino dust caps in tact.

MKS pedals

Ukai Gold 27"x1-1/8" Alloy Rims

Sunshine standard flange hubs - spin with ease

Original Seamless Fujita Anatomical Pro saddle

The entire bike weighs in @ about 25lbs
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Old 04-16-14, 05:58 PM
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Deal, with barons and gold rims. Go for it!
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Old 04-16-14, 06:41 PM
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dailycommute
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definitely worth it @145, it will go fast. Nice condition for age and fujis are great riders. I have 2 from mid 80s and commute on them all the time. 58cm likely if that matters.
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Old 04-16-14, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by oddjob2 View Post
Deal, with barons and gold rims. Go for it!
Thanks! Sorry for my ignorance, but "barons"?

Also, dumb question, but this frame seems like it should accept fenders. True/false?
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Old 04-17-14, 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by d4rks4int View Post
Thanks! Sorry for my ignorance, but "barons"?

Also, dumb question, but this frame seems like it should accept fenders. True/false?
Yous should be out there buying the bike and posting questions later. . . .

The bike will take fenders; this will depend to some extent on the tires. Bar cons are the shifters.
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Old 04-17-14, 09:32 AM
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jet sanchEz
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I hope you got the Fuji but, if not and for future reference, you want a bike with fender eyelets on the rear of the seat stays and the fork.

Like this:



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Old 04-17-14, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by d4rks4int View Post
Thanks! Sorry for my ignorance, but "barons"?
Typo. He meant barcons, a slang term for bar-end shifters. Those SunTour bar end shifters are worth $40-50 bucks these days by themselves! I have them on both of my 'prime' bikes.
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Old 04-17-14, 11:37 AM
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I bought my Shogun from this guy. Be careful, on that bike he somehow managed to strip and bend the RD hanger on it pretty badly, enough that I'll have to drill out and press in a hanger saver. It was a good price, but...

This guy is not someone you'd want wrenching on your bike. (Note the black electrical tape instead of bar tape on the handle bars, just as an example)
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Old 04-17-14, 11:54 AM
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Should still be a great deal at this price I have sold a set of Gold tone wheels with the maching gold freehweel for the asking price. Fortunetly it looks like the current owner hasn't done much wrenching other than the electrical tape.
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Old 04-17-14, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by jet sanchEz View Post
I hope you got the Fuji but, if not and for future reference, you want a bike with fender eyelets on the rear of the seat stays and the fork.
No dice, looks like it sold! Well, lesson learned, I guess, around the hot market


Thanks for the replies, all.

Last edited by d4rks4int; 04-17-14 at 02:12 PM.
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Old 04-17-14, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by wrk101 View Post
Any decent road bike, in a hot market like Seattle, at the $150 price point, is not going to last long enough to get an answer to: "Hey, is this one a good deal?" Every market has its price point where even crap sells pretty quickly. If you have a small budget, MOVE fast. If you have a bigger budget, move up in price range. There is usually a second, higher price level, where the good stuff just doesn't move, even if it is a deal. As a result, some of the BEST deals are at higher prices.
Sounds like real estate. I'm sort of new to the road/commute scene, I came from downhill/freeride land a few years back. Do you have any examples of that "tier 2" level of bike? What are the benefits one would see in moving up in price?

Thanks!
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Old 04-17-14, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by wrk101 View Post
Everyone defines tier two differently. In my experience, in the tier 2 group I have gotten everything from a nice Eddy Merckx, a Colnago, a Batavus Pro, a Tomassini, to a Waterford Paramount. All at prices above the entry road bike level, but all for about half of what they sell for on the various on line sources. Buyers have no imagination, and are on the lazy side as far as driving further out, less convenient, and so on. Meanwhile, brands that are immediately recognized (around here that is something like Cannondale or Trek) go fast.

Now if you are ready to pounce, available any time of day, and can continually scourer C/L, you might find a low cost deal. Realize you have competition and they are doing the same thing. And many of them know bikes, so the time you spend asking questions (hey is this a good one?) they are already in their car driving.

Two groups of people buy bikes at the lower price points: people that just want anything cheap, and people that know bikes and plan to flip it for 2X or more. As you move up the price level, both of those groups drop off, leaving just enthusiasts. When I bought my Colnago locally, I was the only response in TWO WEEKS to the guy's ad. I had minimal interest, but he started making me offers that got my interest going.
Cheers, thanks!
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Old 04-17-14, 06:23 PM
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Looking at the original ad, I am reminded that whenever the bike is described as stock or showroom, or original, or like, the seller is clueless and trying to sell the bike as if its a used car. Noting that the op bike, still listed, has non-original handlebar tape and the front brake is disconnected, and the barcon shifters are not originally specced on the bike demonstrates the "non-stock" nature of this particular offering. Not that this has anything to do with the OP's questions, but is simply a warning to newbie buyers...If the seller claims about the bike are in used car terms, they are not any kind of bike expert and it's buyer beware.
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