WTB - 7 Speed Uniglide Cassette
 

I picked up some Mavic wheels and they came with a uniglide cassette/freehub on them. The cassette is well worn (teeth are broken, etc.) and am looking to get a replacement cassette. Ideally I'd like to get a 13-21, but let me know what you have. I'm trying to go this path before I look into swapping a hyperglide freehub onto the wheel.


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a25c88380.jpeg

I might have one (Shimano 600) in my box of spares. I'll check tonight.

i appreciate it!

Edited for duh...

I might have one too.

Uniglide Sprockets
 

One of the advantages of the Shimano Uniglide Freewheels/Cassettes is that except for one or two of the smallest sprockets, the cogs are reversible so you can use the unworn side...

Note: the screw-on small sprocket and sometimes the next larger one are not reversible.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7302bc0253.jpg

Another solution is to switch to a Hyperglide cassette. This requires a slight modification to the splines. Hyperglide freehubs and cassettes have one wide spine.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2da07e478a.jpg

Use a Dremel tool or a file to reduce the width of the wide spline. Note: the cassette sprockets are held together with 3 screws or rivets. They're only used to make assembly easier and can be removed and discarded.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3c1e093881.jpg

verktyg :50:

yeah I was reading about this, some of my cogs are actually worn down about halfway (or maybe broken halfway) so I was hoping to find a uniglide in better condition. I watched a youtube video regarding shaving down hyperglide splines which seems doable as well. A new hyperglide freehub is only about $25 though so seems worth it to not have to go through the manual labor of unbunching the hyperglide cassette and then filing each one. Hoping one of the members above has one I can take off their hands!

If it looks like some of the teeth on the sprockets are shorter than others, that was on purpose to assist with shifting.

I’ve done what was suggested by vrktyg (a la Sheldon) to HG cassettes sprockets and it works beautifully. 7s HG still exist and typically don’t use spiders for the largest sprockets. Just be sure to keep the 13t threaded sprocket.

What kind of hub do you have on your wheel?

I currently have a Shimano 105 FH-1051. The rim that hub is laced to is tubular, and I'm getting lots of recommendations to not buy tubular tires and try to get another set of wheels with clincher rims. I think ideally I would find some wheels that are 700c, clincher, and 7speed compatible (FH1055 or Shimano 600 6401 would be great because they take uniglide or hyperglide cassettes) but so far any wheels I see that are spaced at 126mm are for freewheels (not freehubs). There are also not that many options on ebay either. Appreciate the info on the shorter teeth!

As you’ve probably heard, it’s not hard to stuff a 130mm hub in a 126mm frame, nor is it hard to cold set a frame to 130.

Alternately, there’s typically room to take a spacer out of the NDS of a hub (sometimes both sides), cut the axle down (or replace it with a shorter one), redish the wheel and Bob’s your uncle.

I have some tubular tires and while they are a dream to ride, my first set I glued pealed off in a fast corner, so I’m gun-shy. Also, for the same amount of money (good tubulars cost good money), one can get very high quality, supple clinchers (eg René Herse). They don’t have the pinch flat resistance of tubs, but not all of us feel the need to ride their vintage road bikes on logging roads… :innocent:

I had considered doing something like that, but finding some vintage wheels just seemed 'easier' (note easier does not always mean better). I have a 120mm frame (actually mic'd at 118mm) but already have a 126mm rear wheel in there and things seem to be going okay. I'm hesitant to spread the frame to 130. I've never owned tubulars, I just happened upon these wheels that had a 7-speed uniglide freehub at my Coop for cheap so I picked them up.