Ed.

Dan owns a local auto resto shop. One never knows what will be within. Today an XK120, a later 20's Model A pick-up, and 55 Cadillac were the recognizable.



The other day the 120 was 'active', but today it's resting. I'd have taken more photos but I don't need my billable hours to go up.

Before:







After:



I didn't take 'after' photos of the other two spots, but I can't find them any more. He said to be certain to save the paint ($75/qt) as more of the underside of the down tube will need some work down the road, but doing so will probably require replacing the transfers and he figured at this point I didn't want to tie the bike up any more.

I have tubing for the under BB cables, but it turns out that the ID is too small. Suggestions?

So, if SWIMPAL doesn't back out, and the weather is auspicious, and the snow has left, there should be two red bombers on the Cape Cod Spring Fling.

dddd

In liew of using tubing to keep the cables sliding smoothly through those grooves, you can just apply a small drop of lube whenever you lube the chain.

There can be a lot of corrosive or sticky stuff thrown up off the tire or dripped down from a waterbottle, so regular lubrication keeps the cables sliding as they should.

Alternatively, you could drill the bb shell for a screw-on plastic cable guide, the better for use with the longer cable runs of handlebar-mounted shifters. This is because the frictional forces at any point on the cable path are multiplied by the up-stream (toward the shifter) cable length to produce measurable amounts of indexing error between the shifter and derailer, which of course reduces the "service interval" time of the entire cabling.

rhm

Wax.

Ed.

Wax... Works for stationary shop tools, works for chains, doesn't hold dirt. Why didn't I think of that?

I have considered adding an under BB plastic guide, as GOD did incorporate later, but it seems I ought to keep Geraldine as GOD built her. Instead of drilling and screwing, perhaps I can figure out something less permanent.

dddd

Silicone glue would work for that.

Michael Angelo 

I have tubing that will work, you want white or black? I can send you some.

Prowler 

Even if Gerry didn't know about Teflon housing liner you could use that, maybe. On my winter project 68 Grand Prix I used a bit of liner salvaged from a modern shift cable housing that was heading into the recycling. I have that under the DS cable guide for the RD cable. Works just fine and stays in place. One of those might snug into those BB slots and do nicely. Also keeps out the ground up quahog shells that the tires kick up from your New England roads.

Henry III

Shimano sells the lining separately. I use it on all my older bikes where there's direct cable rubbing on metal. My Guerciotti is set up the same way with the cable running underneath the bb shell with just grooves for the cable to slide on.

I tried pulling the lining out of some housing and said screw it. Went to the shop down the street and told him my situation. In seconds he dug into a cabinet and pull out a package of the lining. It's not a bulk type item and packaged on a roll to be sold individually. SOLD! Been using it ever since. Comes in 180cm rolls so it last quite a while since you only need a few cm's for those section. I even use it on setups 5 hat have the Campag guides that was mounted over the shell.

Shimano Cable Liner 1800mm Y80098100

repechage

For one bike I found some Teflon impreganated cables. Seems to work well as the rear cable shoots through the chainstay too.

Ed.

Oh, Henry (wait, that has a familiar ring to it...) that sounds like a winner. I checked out McMaster looking for Teflon tubing (they have it, of course) but was curious to know what others used. I'll harass Don at my LBS to see if he has some. I might even wax the cables for good measure. Now if it would just stop snowing...

Ed.

Thank you kindly. I'd really like to try Teflon; if that's what you have I'd prefer black.

Michael Angelo 

I think the ones I have are high Strength Nylon. Very tough wearing, actually it's automotive oil pressure sending unit tubing. Very tough, and slick. I've never had a problem with the cable wearing through. On your bike, black or white would look good.

Ed.

So, progress!



Since SWIMPAL is away for the weekend, I've really taken over the 'back room'. (Actually the bike has been in here all week, but now I can spread out, LOL.) I'm playing a Mario Lanza recording of him singing Caruso - gives the proper Italian ambience, tho there really isn't much Italian on the bike.



I've routed the cables using McMaster-Carr P/N 1508T16 tubing. $2.60 for a 10' length. Seems perfect. I also waxed the cables, and replaced the rear derailleur cable with some new, lined housing. Much smoother, but I don't think as smooth working as the Campag NR set-up on my Pro. Perhaps it's the large loop required by the Suntour derailleur.



(original housing)

This is the other interesting observation:



I know it's done its time, but the wear to some of the teeth (inside of large chainwheel) is pretty astounding. This is a Suntour/Sugino crankset. The Stronglights on my Pro have similar miles on them, and don't look anything like these. The inner chainwheel looks new in comparison.

orangeology

feel like i've just gotten a Raleigh bug...