Dent in frame, how bad is to bad.
03-28-15, 03:56 PM
#1
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Dent in frame, how bad is to bad.
A friend wants to unload this Viner bike on me,
but I'm trying nicely to tell him that I think the frame is trashed.
Sorry about the bad photo.
It looks like something was dropped on the top tube in storage.
with the dent smack dab in the center, and with obvious bend in the tube.
Am I right or wrong?
but I'm trying nicely to tell him that I think the frame is trashed.
Sorry about the bad photo.
It looks like something was dropped on the top tube in storage.
with the dent smack dab in the center, and with obvious bend in the tube.
Am I right or wrong?
03-28-15, 03:58 PM
#2
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The tube has a fold or crimp in it. I wouldn't trust it.
03-28-15, 04:22 PM
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True but it is the least stressed tube on the bike and the location is very visible. I'd have a framebuilder look at it, but I wouldn't write it off until then. I wouldn't race the frame, but I'd ride it as a non-hill bike if it were mine, much like I rode my "saved from a dumpster" fix gear that was hit hard by an SUV for 8000 miles before i retired it. And if you love the bike, it is steel so you could have any decent builder replace the top tube.
Ben
Ben
03-28-15, 04:42 PM
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Kind of a neat frame, with cool cut out on the lugs.
Been repainted though, and missing the decals.
It's too bad.
Been repainted though, and missing the decals.
It's too bad.
Last edited by Rocky Gravol; 03-29-15 at 03:32 PM.
03-28-15, 05:09 PM
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I'd walk away, Rocky. Looking at that dent would bug the heck out of me everytime I rode the bike, and fixing it.... Hmm, who knows what that would cost.
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
03-28-15, 05:31 PM
#9
Still learning
A friend trying to sell you nearly terminally damaged goods? Find a new friend.
03-28-15, 06:13 PM
#10
Decrepit Member
In normal riding, the down tube is in tension and the top tube is in compression. With a severe dent like that in the top tube and a moderately heavy rider, the top tube could simply fold at the dent under the right circumstances. The worst place for a dent like that is in the middle of the tube.
I'd walk away unless you've just got to have that frameset and are willing to spend more money to replace/paint the top tube than the frame is worth.
I'd walk away unless you've just got to have that frameset and are willing to spend more money to replace/paint the top tube than the frame is worth.
03-28-15, 06:22 PM
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There's no way I'd buy it.
OTOH - if it were mine, I'd ride it and it it rode and tracked OK, I'd continue to ride it until I had a real reason to stop. I've seen much worse go many thousands of miles without issue.
OTOH - if it were mine, I'd ride it and it it rode and tracked OK, I'd continue to ride it until I had a real reason to stop. I've seen much worse go many thousands of miles without issue.
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03-29-15, 09:55 AM
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Fwiw I've seen loads of steel framesets with small dings that are fine to ride hard. Personally, I tend to shun these if I am shopping, but would definitely keep an open mind in the future. I passed on a beautiful Masi GC many years ago that still sticks in my craw.
03-29-15, 10:40 AM
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Years ago, I hired a pdr guy (paintless dent repair) to fix a dent (much like what you have shown) in an obscure place on my car.
What he did- to repair it like new- was to drill a 1/4 inch hole, inside the door frame- about 3 inches away from the dent- and fit his special metal working tool up there.
Then he applied some heat with a heatgun, and worked his tool around.
When finished he put a custom plug in the drilled hole.
He charged me $80. for about 40 minutes work, was well worth it to me.
That is a lot of money to put into an old bike, but it could likely be repaired with PDR work.
What he did- to repair it like new- was to drill a 1/4 inch hole, inside the door frame- about 3 inches away from the dent- and fit his special metal working tool up there.
Then he applied some heat with a heatgun, and worked his tool around.
When finished he put a custom plug in the drilled hole.
He charged me $80. for about 40 minutes work, was well worth it to me.
That is a lot of money to put into an old bike, but it could likely be repaired with PDR work.
Last edited by Peugeotlover; 03-29-15 at 10:45 AM.
03-29-15, 10:52 AM
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You didn't mention how much your friend was wanting to sell the bike for, or the overall condition of the bike.
If the price is right, then in some cases, the value of the parts can exceed the value of the whole bike, so it could be worth it even with the dent.
That does look like a dent large and visible enough that I would consider repairs.
Here is a most interesting DIY dent repair, unfortunately you may have to wait for next winter.
If the price is right, then in some cases, the value of the parts can exceed the value of the whole bike, so it could be worth it even with the dent.
That does look like a dent large and visible enough that I would consider repairs.
Here is a most interesting DIY dent repair, unfortunately you may have to wait for next winter.
03-29-15, 10:58 AM
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Dented, regardless of dent size, is already bad. By bad, I mean I am not the least bit interested unless the bike is something really special and rare.
The OP's dent renders the frame set useless, in my opinion, and most certainly unsafe to ride. It can be repaired but the cost would not warrant the effort - again, my opinion.
The OP's dent renders the frame set useless, in my opinion, and most certainly unsafe to ride. It can be repaired but the cost would not warrant the effort - again, my opinion.
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03-29-15, 11:31 AM
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Years ago, I hired a pdr guy (paintless dent repair) to fix a dent (much like what you have shown) in an obscure place on my car.
What he did- to repair it like new- was to drill a 1/4 inch hole, inside the door frame- about 3 inches away from the dent- and fit his special metal working tool up there.
Then he applied some heat with a heatgun, and worked his tool around.
When finished he put a custom plug in the drilled hole.
He charged me $80. for about 40 minutes work, was well worth it to me.
That is a lot of money to put into an old bike, but it could likely be repaired with PDR work.
What he did- to repair it like new- was to drill a 1/4 inch hole, inside the door frame- about 3 inches away from the dent- and fit his special metal working tool up there.
Then he applied some heat with a heatgun, and worked his tool around.
When finished he put a custom plug in the drilled hole.
He charged me $80. for about 40 minutes work, was well worth it to me.
That is a lot of money to put into an old bike, but it could likely be repaired with PDR work.
As mentioned being in the center top is not the best place for a dent to be. regards, Ben
03-29-15, 11:35 AM
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I dented the top tube on my Voyageur SP.
I was literally sick to my stomach. I mean that literally. Like I was ready to barf.
I went out to the garage, I saw a 2x6 on the floor, in the middle of the room, figured the kids had moved stuff around. Rode to the bike shop, came home- as the bike was up against the fence I saw it... and thought about it... that 2x6 was in the rafters, somehow fell down and hit the bike.
All my fault.
I was literally sick to my stomach. I mean that literally. Like I was ready to barf.
I went out to the garage, I saw a 2x6 on the floor, in the middle of the room, figured the kids had moved stuff around. Rode to the bike shop, came home- as the bike was up against the fence I saw it... and thought about it... that 2x6 was in the rafters, somehow fell down and hit the bike.
All my fault.
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03-29-15, 11:40 AM
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I had a small dent in a top tube with no access and went to a body shop that used a electric spot welder that put a small wire on the tube and then used a puller to pop out the dent....not perfect but almost and no hole needed....nice.
As mentioned being in the center top is not the best place for a dent to be. regards, Ben
As mentioned being in the center top is not the best place for a dent to be. regards, Ben
One just has to figure out how to use it without making too big of a mess of things.
Now, the dent isn't pretty, so that would be one factor in how much one might offer for the bike.
03-29-15, 11:53 AM
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There are lots and lots of non-dented frames around, why bother with this one unless it's free? Even then I don't think I'd mess with it unless I was a framebuilder myself.
03-29-15, 12:37 PM
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I just so happen to have a Viner frame inbound. Very reasonable but even so probably not cheap enough - project that needs paint. I'd advise the OP to pass on that dinger frame but what about the rest of it?
If taking a pass, I could use a fork. I'll listen in and welcome a PM.
If taking a pass, I could use a fork. I'll listen in and welcome a PM.
03-29-15, 03:59 PM
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What the photo doesn't show is that the top tube is not just dented but also bent downward.
Another problem, the bike should have come from the factory
with a Campagnolo group set,
but someone along the line swapped it all out with modern Shimano components.
Why do people do that?
What it does have is Campagnolo hubs and nice Wolber wheels.
That are worth the asking price of the rest of the bike.
Except I'm worried they're Italian threads.
with a Campagnolo group set,
but someone along the line swapped it all out with modern Shimano components.
Why do people do that?
What it does have is Campagnolo hubs and nice Wolber wheels.
That are worth the asking price of the rest of the bike.
Except I'm worried they're Italian threads.
Last edited by Rocky Gravol; 03-29-15 at 04:11 PM.
03-29-15, 04:10 PM
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I just so happen to have a Viner frame inbound. Very reasonable but even so probably not cheap enough - project that needs paint. I'd advise the OP to pass on that dinger frame but what about the rest of it?
If taking a pass, I could use a fork. I'll listen in and welcome a PM.
If taking a pass, I could use a fork. I'll listen in and welcome a PM.
The forks have those nice star and shield cut outs.
The reason my friend is selling the bike, is that he is quitting his job and moving out of state.
So I'll probably end up buying the bike, just so I can help him along with his adventure.
Last edited by Rocky Gravol; 03-30-15 at 11:11 AM.
03-29-15, 04:17 PM
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Depending on what you want, you can ride it, but I'd probably strip it for the components. So, the whole bike should be priced at the value of the individual components (gruppo + wheels) minus labor. Sell off the fork and headset, then find a local amateur builder who wishes to do a top tube replacement and give them the forkless frame for free.
Another problem, the bike should have come from the factory
with a Campagnolo group set, but someone along the line swapped it all out with modern Shimano components.
Why do people do that?
What it does have is Campagnolo hubs and nice Wolber wheels.
That are worth the asking price of the rest of the bike.
with a Campagnolo group set, but someone along the line swapped it all out with modern Shimano components.
Why do people do that?
What it does have is Campagnolo hubs and nice Wolber wheels.
That are worth the asking price of the rest of the bike.
In some cases, some or all of the original components just wear out over time, or are otherwise damaged. In other cases, someone will wish to "modernize". In other cases, the frame will be acquired as a bare frame, and a person will choose to use modern components for the build.
You can talk about "classic and vintage", but for a lot of people, they are just (nice) old bikes.
