Bike Forums

Bike Forums (https://www.bikeforums.net/forum.php)
-   Classic & Vintage (https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/)
-   -   Rims (https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/1000779-rims.html)

himespau 03-30-15 05:40 PM


Originally Posted by lostarchitect (Post 17675479)
I also built up some 36 hole VO Raid rims on Campagnolo record high flange hubs. Great wheels. Built up smooth and easy, too. But the rims cost about 2x what the CR-18's cost, if I remember correctly.

I have been wanting a project to build some wheels with H+Son TB-14 rims. Maybe sometime soon.

Yeah, the costs savings of the CR-18 are hard to overcome. On the other hand, they should be good for lots of miles and they're going on a shimano alfine dynamo front hub and (probably because that's what I have laying around even though the spacing is wrong) Ultegra rear hub, so might pair it with something a bit nicer and just pay the extra $60-80.


Originally Posted by fietsbob (Post 17675572)
I happen happen to have 406-47 tires on CR18 rims

That's good to know, thanks.

desconhecido 03-30-15 05:54 PM


Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 17675424)
I believe that the Sun M13 only take a tire of a certain width. I think those are the ones I looked up online because our local coop sells them new laced or Origin8 hubs for a reasonable price. So might want to check on what size tire those can take. My friend bought a set from Harris Cyclery and they spin nice and smooth.

I've built wheels with both CR18 rims and M13 II rims (have no idea what the II is supposed to mean). They're pretty similar in appearance and price but the M13 II is a bit narrower. I have them on a bike that gets 25 mm to 28 mm tires.

desconhecido 03-30-15 06:17 PM


Originally Posted by himespau (Post 17676130)
Yeah, the costs savings of the CR-18 are hard to overcome. On the other hand, they should be good for lots of miles and they're going on a shimano alfine dynamo front hub and (probably because that's what I have laying around even though the spacing is wrong) Ultegra rear hub, so might pair it with something a bit nicer and just pay the extra $60-80..

I've never heard anybody complain about the durability of CR-18 rims. The only complaint seems to be that they aren't as round or true as some other rims. Did see a discussion here a while ago about the life expectancy of the rims before the sidewalls wear through. The consensus seems to be "lots of miles."

Probably among the most durable rims would be the Mavic A719. They appear to go for about $80 to $85 in the U.S. For an adventure in trying to figure out how much buying internationally costs, check out ROSE Bikes: Bikeshop Road Bikes, MTB/Mountain Bikes, Trekking and City Bikes The A719 in 36 hole is 55 Euro with 15 Euro shipping, but that includes VAT which U.S. customers don't pay (19%). Currently, the Euro is about $1.08 to $1.10. Shipping for two rims isn't double -- they combine shipping. I've ordered from these folks and they deliver what you pay for and properly discount the VAT. Shipping takes about a week. Their best deals appear to be on western European goods such as Mavic, DT, etc. A Campagnolo Record threaded headset, for example, is 50 Euro plus shipping minus vat. It's a brave new world we live in.

himespau 03-30-15 06:34 PM

Yeah I wasn't commenting on whether one lasted longer than another or not, just that, while I'm trying to build the wheels on the cheap, saving $30-40 over many thousands of miles spread out isn't so much, so maybe it would be worth pairing nicer rims with my nice (to me anyway- the other wheels I've built up are 105 and chorus) hubs.

jimmuller 03-30-15 08:18 PM


Originally Posted by desconhecido (Post 17676159)
I've built wheels with both CR18 rims and M13 II rims (have no idea what the II is supposed to mean). They're pretty similar in appearance and price but the M13 II is a bit narrower. I have them on a bike that gets 25 mm to 28 mm tires.

I believe there was a prior model M13 from Sun. They show up in searches every so often. I like the M13-II, have them on several bikes. But the original post was for a rim to carry wider tires. The 13 and 18 designations appear to be the inner width.

SoreFeet 03-30-15 08:21 PM

The Velocity Dyad is also a good contender. I think the CR18 will work great...why not splurge for double butted spokes?

himespau 03-30-15 08:25 PM

Oh absolutely going with double butted spokes, but the larger ones (sapim race), not the narrow ones (sapim laser) that I tried on my last build that gave me lots of problems.

JohnDThompson 03-30-15 08:45 PM

Hard to go wrong with CR-18s: they're available in a variety of diameters, drillings and finishes, and are study and inexpensive. I run 38mm tires on CR-18 rims with no problems. Unless you have a compelling reason to go with some other rim, I'd just go with the CR-18s.

himespau 03-30-15 09:35 PM

Fair enough. I've heard that a lot. I've just heard some about variable build quality and issues with mounting certain tires. Unfortunately, one of those Panaracer Paselas was a tire I'd been planning on using. Don't know if that's a rim issue or a tire issue or just some weird combination, but that had been making me a bit leery, but I suppose so many people over so many years can't be all wrong. I've seen some people say you should run a very thin tape with them. Is that really necessary, or can I just go with the standard velox stuff?

himespau 03-30-15 09:49 PM

If it doesn't take things to far astray, I have a sort of related question.

When I was originally going to build this wheelset up, I was going to use a different frame for the same purpose (commuting, touring, maybe a bit of gravel, all around riding). So I got a geat deal on a lightly used Shimano DH-3N80 front hub with a new light and an unused Ultegra 6700 rear hub in another great deal. So two bargains on hubs with matching finish that I thought I could use together. The thing is, this bike has a 135 mm rear triangle spacing. I asked about using a different wheelset that I already had on hand with the frame over in mechanics and the consensus was to just add a 5 mm spacer to the non-drive side and re-dish and get a new skewer before the conversation devolved into how big a mm is and how much flex aluminum can handle.

Since I'm building up a wheelset for this frame now, does it still make sense to put an extra spacer on the nondrive side and build it up with this hub since it's what I have on hand (and I like to save money), or since it is ultegra which is a racing model with a slightly too short axle (the 130 mm axle will probably only go halfway into each of the dropouts), should I replace it with a more sturdy hub before starting (or take the middle route and just replace the axle and put an extra spacer on there). I really like the idea of using what I have since it's pretty and I already have it, but, if I'd be better off getting a new hub, now is the time before I start ordering spokes and building.

rando_couche 03-30-15 09:49 PM


Originally Posted by bradtx (Post 17674815)
From personal experience the CR-18s are a good choice for what you want to use them for.

Brad

CR18's get my vote too. Wide-ish, not heavy, dirt cheap and build up round and straight. Disclaimer: I've only used 'em in 406mm (20") and 559 (26"), not 700c.

SP
OC, OR

nfmisso 03-31-15 10:35 AM


Originally Posted by himespau (Post 17676707)
If it doesn't take things to far astray, I have a sort of related question.

When I was originally going to build this wheelset up, I was going to use a different frame for the same purpose (commuting, touring, maybe a bit of gravel, all around riding). So I got a geat deal on a lightly used Shimano DH-3N80 front hub with a new light and an unused Ultegra 6700 rear hub in another great deal. So two bargains on hubs with matching finish that I thought I could use together. The thing is, this bike has a 135 mm rear triangle spacing. I asked about using a different wheelset that I already had on hand with the frame over in mechanics and the consensus was to just add a 5 mm spacer to the non-drive side and re-dish and get a new skewer before the conversation devolved into how big a mm is and how much flex aluminum can handle.

Since I'm building up a wheelset for this frame now, does it still make sense to put an extra spacer on the nondrive side and build it up with this hub since it's what I have on hand (and I like to save money), or since it is ultegra which is a racing model with a slightly too short axle (the 130 mm axle will probably only go halfway into each of the dropouts), should I replace it with a more sturdy hub before starting (or take the middle route and just replace the axle and put an extra spacer on there). I really like the idea of using what I have since it's pretty and I already have it, but, if I'd be better off getting a new hub, now is the time before I start ordering spokes and building.


Just add a 5mm spacer to the NDS, and re-center the axle (good time to overhaul the bearings). You may need a longer QR. This will give you better centering of the rim on the hub -> less tension difference ND to NDS. You should recalculate the spoke lengths, but may not make any difference.

himespau 03-31-15 10:39 AM

OK, so no real reason to buy a new hub? That's good. Sounds like cheapness will rule the day if I can use what I already have and get the inexpensive CR-18 rims. 5 mm spacers are cheap.

Rocket-Sauce 03-31-15 10:52 AM

I just built up some Ambrosio Excellence rims in silver. Very nice. Easy build. Round, true, even spoke tension....

Plus they look great with the "golden ticket" at the valve hole.

lostarchitect 03-31-15 11:02 AM


Originally Posted by himespau (Post 17676685)
Fair enough. I've heard that a lot. I've just heard some about variable build quality and issues with mounting certain tires. Unfortunately, one of those Panaracer Paselas was a tire I'd been planning on using. Don't know if that's a rim issue or a tire issue or just some weird combination, but that had been making me a bit leery, but I suppose so many people over so many years can't be all wrong. I've seen some people say you should run a very thin tape with them. Is that really necessary, or can I just go with the standard velox stuff?


Hmm, I use Paselas a lot and have had no issues with them on CR-18's. I also always use Velox tape. I also have built... Let's see... 8 wheels, I think, with CR-18's and not had any build issues. Not a huge sample size, but that's my experience.

Ecrevisse 03-31-15 11:23 AM

I recommend Mavic Ma2.

JohnDThompson 03-31-15 08:18 PM


Originally Posted by himespau (Post 17676685)
I've just heard some about variable build quality and issues with mounting certain tires. [. . .] I've seen some people say you should run a very thin tape with them. Is that really necessary, or can I just go with the standard velox stuff?

I've not had any problems with CR-18 build quality, and no problems using Velox rim tape either, but I suppose YMMV.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:28 PM.


Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.