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Raliegh Road Rebirth

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Raliegh Road Rebirth

Old 03-30-15, 07:32 PM
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Red Beard
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Raliegh Road Rebirth

Hey everyone, if you had seen my intro as well as replied with some kind words, thankyou and im glad to be here.

I will start my entrance into the forums here in the awesome v&c section as currently is where i, as well as my gf are at personally.

Her bike could get its own thread here soon but the bike i just picked up needed a bit more love so thats where this thread starts.

Gazelle built '74 Raliegh Grand Prix


she's completely stock and in amazing condition! LOL all the way to the original Raliegh racing tires!
However, along with all that awesomeness comes some lack of love, FD mount is cracked, RD idler gears missing teeth, tires/tubes wasted, brake blocks rock hard and the cables are original as are the housings, not to mention the un-lovely cottered cranks...

Broken front derailleur



Cottered crank set


Sunday Funday bike night, we decided to spend the eveing with pizza n beer (i must say i have a like minded and awesome gf!), needless to say, it was clean and inspect night for our bikes!

...so here is my new starting point, pretty excited!







k, hope you like where this lil gem is going, ill post up more here in few...
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Old 03-30-15, 07:50 PM
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Looks to be in pretty nice shape. Are you just doing an overhaul on it? Doesn't look like it needs to much work. Just the standard consumables that deteriorate with age.
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Old 03-30-15, 09:07 PM
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Looks like you're on the right path!
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Old 03-30-15, 09:09 PM
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yes sir! :0) Thats the plan for the most part. first things first tho, i need to swap out the cottered crank set to a hex taper. Doesnt seem to be to many options so i am in favor of swapping out spindles and reusing the oem cups...getting the bb squared away is the first step. nothing is damaged so to say, one cotter bolt is broken and the other had no washer/nut...just figured id get this mess out of the way in the begining. ive been looking at later model raliegh to gain a later spindle/ crank set but not sure on what hex spindles to keep an eye out for...
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Old 03-30-15, 09:37 PM
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If there is a bicycle kitchen or co-op near by, I would look there for what you need at a reasonable price.
Possible to do, fit a spindle into the existing bottom bracket cups, but new bike shops, other than one that has been around for many decades will be costly.
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Old 03-30-15, 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by repechage View Post
If there is a bicycle kitchen or co-op near by, I would look there for what you need at a reasonable price.
This is great advice. I volunteer at my local co-op (Recycle-A-Bike in Providence, RI) and I work on a lot of stuff like this. Old road bikes don't ever really die.
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Old 03-31-15, 01:14 AM
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This is true!
Today I was able to shuffle thru a couple boxes of derailleurs n found what is hopefully the new rd...its a suntour honor, hope it's adaptable.
I will be going to another older bike shop that recycles alot n will be searching for a spindle n crank set later this week.
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Old 03-31-15, 05:00 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by Red Beard View Post
not to mention the un-lovely cottered cranks...
I think you'll find many people here, myself included, who are quite fond of cottered cranks. Yes they are a bit heavy, but does that really matter? I loved my Grand Prix for what it was, but a light weight bike it will never be. Might as well keep it looking original IMO. Yours is in particularly nice shape it appears and that cottered crank just looks right. Since you already got it apart that's a lot of the battle fought and won, putting it back together and maintaining it will be easy now.
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Old 03-31-15, 08:06 AM
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Not sure if you have raleigh 26tpi threading in the bottom bracket but if you don't a UN-26 or UN-55 cartridge bottom bracket are easy to find and inexpensive.
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Old 03-31-15, 08:45 AM
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Lotekmod...the ring gear side cotter is busted on seized in the crank...but yes the overall condition us very nice. I just would prefer not to go thru the Hassel of crank set /bb removal again lol. Plus to be honest, this grand prix is super light for what it is I believe.

The bike fully assembled stock in the first pic only weight 14lbs, the other pic where it's just the frame head set and fork-only 4.1lbs!
That made me giggle when I saw that lol...

Narhay...I would love that bb upgrade. How do I confirm the threads? I guess I could figure the thread pitch with my gauge...but do I simply just count threads per inch tho?
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Old 03-31-15, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Red Beard View Post
Lotekmod...the ring gear side cotter is busted on seized in the crank...but yes the overall condition us very nice. I just would prefer not to go thru the Hassel of crank set /bb removal again lol. Plus to be honest, this grand prix is super light for what it is I believe.

The bike fully assembled stock in the first pic only weight 14lbs, the other pic where it's just the frame head set and fork-only 4.1lbs!
That made me giggle when I saw that lol...

Narhay...I would love that bb upgrade. How do I confirm the threads? I guess I could figure the thread pitch with my gauge...but do I simply just count threads per inch tho?
One nit: our terminology is Drive Side (DS) for the side with the ring gears and RD on it. Non Drive Side (NDS) for the other side (side with no gears/cogs).

If your GP really weighs just 14lbs then you've really got something there. May be packed with lighteningium or something. Are you sure 14lbs?

I've recently completed the overhaul of a 1968 Nottingham Raleigh GP and I agree they are nice bikes. My steel cottered crankset cleaned up very nicely and is back on the bike. Looks good. Be sure to measure the bottom bracket (BB) width. Mine was more like 70mm vs the standard 68mm used later. I stayed with the stock BB assembly as it cleaned up very well and turns smoothly

As to thread pitch, measuring is a good start but I'd verify by carefully trying a known thread cup. Many have the size and thread pitch stamped on the face of the cup. Easy does it get the threads started and progress from there. The cup should not bind at all, anywhere. Should screw in smoothly with two fingers, no tool, until only a few mm are still showing - about the width of the lock ring. Be sure to clean all the threads very well first then a bit of light oil for the test.

Enjoy that bike. I like mine.
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Old 03-31-15, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Red Beard View Post
Lotekmod...the ring gear side cotter is busted on seized in the crank...but yes the overall condition us very nice. I just would prefer not to go thru the Hassel of crank set /bb removal again lol. Plus to be honest, this grand prix is super light for what it is I believe.

The bike fully assembled stock in the first pic only weight 14lbs, the other pic where it's just the frame head set and fork-only 4.1lbs!
That made me giggle when I saw that lol...

Narhay...I would love that bb upgrade. How do I confirm the threads? I guess I could figure the thread pitch with my gauge...but do I simply just count threads per inch tho?
Probably, your bike has 1 3/8" X 26 tpi on the bottom bracket. Almost all Nottingham Raleighs did, and some of the Dutch made GPs did too. Some claim that if the bike has a cottered crank that it is almost certainly 26 tpi but if cotter free, likely 24 tpi. I think that's a good rule of thumb, as they say, but we don't actually have proof that there were no GPs with cottered cranks and 24 tpi. Hard to prove that.

The best way (and only fool proof way) to tell for sure is with a thread gauge. The next best way is with something else with known threads. On your GP, the freewheel threads on to the hubs with 1 3/8" X 24 tpi. Compare those threads to your BB threads. Just match one of the cups to the hub side by side and see if they match perfectly. Note that you can often thread a thin nut of one thread onto something of the other, so be careful about trying to thread your hub (for example) into your BB. Or trying to thread the BB cup into the freewheel.

As for broken cotters, they are much softer than either the spindles or the crank arms so they can be drilled. Be careful to not break the drill bit.

I agree with everybody else -- nice and enjoyable bike.
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Old 04-01-15, 12:46 PM
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thanks again everyone...i enjoy reading your enthusiastic responses on this overhaul!

Yes, my luggage scale has seemed to be pretty accurate and the gp as in the first pic weight was 14lbs. My gf's Peugoet mixie weight 13 lbs! So im hoping after all said n done here in the week or so that when reassembled it will be at the same weight or lighter. when i originally bought it off an older gentleman i noticed how stupid light it was when i grabbed the top tube to toss it up n over into the truck bed how surprisingly light she was.

so...yesterday i went local bike shop rummaging, scored a rear suntour "honor" derailleur, well...two actaully, one is a parts derailleur lol. also was able to match up a std square tapered spindle that will work with my oem bb cups! And i also picked up a pair of dual pull dia compe brake calipers to be used as an upgrade for the gf's peugeot.

Now i need to round up a dual ring gear square shank crank set, (ive been watching a few on ebay)

tires, tubes, rim strips, brake blocks, new ergo brake levers, cables and housings will be ordered n rounded up within the next week, re-tape the oem alloy drop bars AND! frames will be mounted up in the frame alignment tool this weekend just to play it safe.

im going to go test my scale with a weight and re hang the frame?fork set n post up a pick for ya...and then one more fully re-assembled too!

LOL its such a fun build...
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Old 04-01-15, 01:25 PM
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hmmm! so i took a 10lb toning dumbell n hung it from the scale, it weighs true...

10.01lbs


then my decor hook fell out in the room, so back out to the patio, sorry the sunny bright back ground kind of drowns out the one pic...

but now im confused...it weighs 7.78lbs as pictured...


well, only having non 10spds to compare to, as my first 10spd/road bike i wont know the difference other then its completely different from the rest of my growing heard lol
ill post a weigh in pic once shes all back together and i guess that'll be that hahaha!
back to the fun...

Last edited by Red Beard; 04-01-15 at 01:29 PM. Reason: because...
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Old 04-01-15, 01:36 PM
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GPs are not known for their light weight. They are good, sturdy, reliable bikes and enjoyable to ride. They last a long time.
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Old 04-10-15, 09:56 AM
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hey guys and gals...

i nned some help/info on an issue with the bb

i am going to order the unit from velo orange, all i am doing is installing the sealed updated vo bb and wish to install an older square taper two ring crank set to get right back where i was just cotterless and sealed bb.

the gentlman at vo helped me yesterday but now just need to figure out the correct spindle length for the chain line to remain correct.

ive seen this on here in the past but can not find the post where a member has done this. anyone shed some light on the spindle length needed ? thankyou! its the only thing left to obtain to put this relic back together! ;0)
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Old 04-10-15, 10:09 AM
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The spindle length depends on the crankset--what are you planning to use?
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Old 04-10-15, 10:11 AM
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an older vintage style two ring crank set. i have a few im watching on ebay right now...
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Old 04-10-15, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Red Beard View Post
an older vintage style two ring crank set. i have a few im watching on ebay right now...

OK, you will need to know which specific one you are using before you can know what spindle length. If you let us know which brands & models you are looking at, someone can probably help you.
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Old 04-10-15, 12:00 PM
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You need to make sure your bottom bracket is really not the Raleigh threaded one vs. the standard threaded one before you spend the money on the VO BB. I see many folks getting into upgrading old bikes and they get excited and buy a bunch of stuff and then get stuck with items that don't fit.

Most GP's have the Raleigh threading. If it is, you should just stick with your cottered crankset.

Honestly, the cost of the VO BB alone is about what your bike is worth. Why not just fix it up and enjoy it for what it is instead of trying to make it something it isn't?
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Old 04-10-15, 12:38 PM
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threads are boogered on the bb and the cotter is seized...im alright spending the money on the bb with a crank set. not wanting to ever deal with this cottered set again lol.

so...will i need to get the crank set in hand first in order to order the correct bb?
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Old 04-10-15, 12:39 PM
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Vintage SR Royal Raleigh Crankset 170 | eBay

i like these!

and then this...

https://store.velo-orange.com/index.p...-brackets.html

Last edited by Red Beard; 04-10-15 at 12:59 PM.
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Old 04-12-15, 11:55 AM
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Maybe the 118 length spindle would possibly be the best starting point...
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